Hello, I was living a block away from the Gulfcoast when Katrina hit. As I was completely stupid, I left my 1983 FJ60 there when I evacuated my family. When I got back my FJ60 was there, but had some water on the inside and the engine compartment was full of trash. Talked with some peaple who stayed....not too bright. But they said the Cruiser floated until the waters left. I tryed starting it and push starting it. When I put it in gear the tires locked up. Since then I have towed it to my new house in the country and hope to rebuild it. I will start checking out the engine (2F) this week any thing I should know or look for while doing this. Any advice on rebuilding her. Thanks
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Katrina FJ60
- Thread starter toddallum
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Thats real bad luck but I suppose it could be worse.
I would immediately empty the oil,brake fluid and coolant out and put fresh fluids in.Same with the gearbox ,t/case and diffs.
I would take the spark plugs out and turn it by hand with a wrench on the crank nut.
I would also strip out the interior and make sure everthing is dry and there are no pockets of mud or moisture in the frame.
I know of diesel 45 that have been washed away in cyclonic floods in northern Australia and have been successfully restartedjust by changing the oil and letting them sit for a while.
I would immediately empty the oil,brake fluid and coolant out and put fresh fluids in.Same with the gearbox ,t/case and diffs.
I would take the spark plugs out and turn it by hand with a wrench on the crank nut.
I would also strip out the interior and make sure everthing is dry and there are no pockets of mud or moisture in the frame.
I know of diesel 45 that have been washed away in cyclonic floods in northern Australia and have been successfully restartedjust by changing the oil and letting them sit for a while.
Maybe seek out the assistance of the Cottonland Cruiser guys too. Really great bunch of guys there. But yes do the complete fluid change as previously mentioned. It could be a good opportunity to go completely synthetic. also get a new cap and rotor, new plug wires, fuel filter (possibly flush the tank). With that in mind clean all the ground terminals for the ignition, as light corrosion there may cause it to turn over but not start. That salt water from the gulf will cause serious headaches even when your vehicle doesn't come in direct contact with it.
Where was your Cruiser at? I am from South MS. (little town of Gautier). I went down from where I live now (Virginia), right after the storm to assist my family in clean-up. What a mess it was in Ms. It rendered the place almost unrecognisable. I can't inagine the Louisiana side.
I wish you the best of luck in getting it back on the road, and in your new location.
Where was your Cruiser at? I am from South MS. (little town of Gautier). I went down from where I live now (Virginia), right after the storm to assist my family in clean-up. What a mess it was in Ms. It rendered the place almost unrecognisable. I can't inagine the Louisiana side.
I wish you the best of luck in getting it back on the road, and in your new location.
- Thread starter
- #5
Thanks for your help. I was living in Long Beach at Arbor Station Apt. But they were washed away. I started taking everything out of the inside. Had to spend some time trying to get the hood open. FEMA or the apt owners had the Cruiser moved so the ignition switch was busted and I don't know why but the hood cable was snapped. I hope tonight to start to lok at the engine. Once again thanks for your support.
Keep us posted. We would like to do anything that we can to help. Come on over and introduce yourself at our fourm when you have time.
I would pull the spark plugs, take the cap off the distributor (blow some compressed air in the body that goes in the engine and take the cap inside your house for a few days to get the moisture out by laying it on your heating duct). Then spray cap/plug wires with some anti moisture grease. Replace all the fluids as everyone has mentioned.
I would crank it over with no spark plugs in the motor so you don't hydraulic (compress water in the cylinder and bend connecting rod or crack block) the motor for 30 seconds. Then install plugs cross fingers and hope it starts.
That sucks... hopefully it can be broke back from its current state.
Good luck.
I would crank it over with no spark plugs in the motor so you don't hydraulic (compress water in the cylinder and bend connecting rod or crack block) the motor for 30 seconds. Then install plugs cross fingers and hope it starts.
That sucks... hopefully it can be broke back from its current state.
Good luck.
your rig was floating on at best "brackish" whater, if not complete salt water.
Your wiring harness and all things electrical are gonna fail sooner than later. Does not mean you can't fix it or live with it..but that will be your biggest problem if the bearings, (engine, and wheel) don't go first.
Qualifer: Lived on the NC coast, guys that tried to save flooded rigs had electrical corroision everywhere..particulary at the the light sockets and any splice or connecter...
It's just a fact
Your wiring harness and all things electrical are gonna fail sooner than later. Does not mean you can't fix it or live with it..but that will be your biggest problem if the bearings, (engine, and wheel) don't go first.
Qualifer: Lived on the NC coast, guys that tried to save flooded rigs had electrical corroision everywhere..particulary at the the light sockets and any splice or connecter...
It's just a fact
Nother note
When marine motors get submerged (out boards or inboards, diesel, 2 stroke, or 4 stroker, we take them as noted above and put all new every thing, oil, filters plugs etc etc. crank em up get em hot then drop out the oil and change the filter. Do it again if the oil has any white foam or milky color to it when you check the dipstick. Keep heating it up and changing it till it looks "normal".
do it sooner than later...salt metal O2 make rust
When marine motors get submerged (out boards or inboards, diesel, 2 stroke, or 4 stroker, we take them as noted above and put all new every thing, oil, filters plugs etc etc. crank em up get em hot then drop out the oil and change the filter. Do it again if the oil has any white foam or milky color to it when you check the dipstick. Keep heating it up and changing it till it looks "normal".
do it sooner than later...salt metal O2 make rust
- Thread starter
- #10
Update
Well I removed the engine and pulled the head. The cylinders had water. Drained them and filled them with oil to let them soak for a few days. The crank will not turn. That causes a problem with removing the clutch, flywheel and bellhousing. Any ideas???????? I am going this weekend to find a 46mm socket to remove the crank pulley. Maybe drop the crank and flywheel as a unit then remove them.????? I was hoping to get the engine apart before I have to deploy next month. When I get back is when I will send everything off to the machine shops.
I know the electrical system is most likely shot or will fail sooner or later. I quess I will have to run out each wire and see. Maybe just new conectors were the wire or contactors are bare.
Well I removed the engine and pulled the head. The cylinders had water. Drained them and filled them with oil to let them soak for a few days. The crank will not turn. That causes a problem with removing the clutch, flywheel and bellhousing. Any ideas???????? I am going this weekend to find a 46mm socket to remove the crank pulley. Maybe drop the crank and flywheel as a unit then remove them.????? I was hoping to get the engine apart before I have to deploy next month. When I get back is when I will send everything off to the machine shops.
I know the electrical system is most likely shot or will fail sooner or later. I quess I will have to run out each wire and see. Maybe just new conectors were the wire or contactors are bare.
Cut losses, part it out and buy another one. Harsh, yes but man are you gonna spend $$$, And still have problems down the road. Find a west coast rig for $4k or so and start building that when you get back.
Good luck on the deployment..search the net in your downtime for a new/different rig..come on back and start anew.
Good luck on the deployment..search the net in your downtime for a new/different rig..come on back and start anew.
buy some ACF 50 at an aviation supply house....disconnect ever electrical connection and spray both parts of the plug and reattach. It will take care of any moisture or corrosive agents....guaranteed!
HTH's , Daryl
HTH's , Daryl
I agree, should not not hurt. Wash everthing with a degreaser and soap to get rid of the sea water salt on it if you can before you deploy. It won't hurt to do the same inside the cruiser. keep parts lubed after cleaning
Once the engine is exposed to salt water, the best thing is to leave it submerged until you can take it apart.
I guess the next thing would be is to make sure you have a good working oil pump, may have to remove it and clean it and hope it works. you may have to loosen the bearings on the crank just so you can turn the engine by hand. Once you have it turning and good oil pump. stick a drill at the end of the oil pump. At the same time keep everything lubed during the process.
May want to get advice from the marine place and see what they say. Good.
Once the engine is exposed to salt water, the best thing is to leave it submerged until you can take it apart.
I guess the next thing would be is to make sure you have a good working oil pump, may have to remove it and clean it and hope it works. you may have to loosen the bearings on the crank just so you can turn the engine by hand. Once you have it turning and good oil pump. stick a drill at the end of the oil pump. At the same time keep everything lubed during the process.
May want to get advice from the marine place and see what they say. Good.
fjbj40 said:
High Desert said:
X2 !!!!!
You will have NOTHING but trouble with this vehicle. If the cylinders of you engine are junk(rings froze to the cylinders) then you can bet that anything else that had this crap water in it will be the same...
If this truck was swamped in the crap water down there....you have nothing but a career of headaches in front of you.
Good luck!
-Steve
geez bummer bud. I reckon the best tip you've had so far is the ditch it and start again suggestions. short of stripping every nut and bolt off the entire rig and completely submerging the vehicle you will NEVER get rid off the salt an it WILL rust. you've got about 7 days from submergence to get it stripped and soaked. Game over mate, Salt wins. Might be worth keeping for parts, but still wash it thoroughly. Good luck man.