JTR hose splicers, w & w/o steam port, heater hose Ts,......

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i've seen a lot of conversion threads on here but not much mention on these parts from JTR. they make conversions a little easier and work great. i've been dealing with these guys for many years and am a loyal customer and reseller.

just trying to get the word out for them......

mike and greg make a series of radiator hose splicers as well as splicers with one, two or three threadded ports for steam port returns, sight glass or steam vents for the vortec swaps.

contrary to what some "experts" might tell you, the steam ports on vortec engines are there for a reason and need to be hooked up, not plugged. :rolleyes:

JTR also makes heater hose T-fittings in different sizes for different applications.

pics below.

hth

georg @ valley hybrids
hose splicers.webp
steam port splicers.webp
heater Ts.webp
 
They are very high quality splicers and reducers and they are surprisingly reasonable in price.
 
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yep, I used a tee for the upper rad hose for my steam vent. good stuff. I have also bought lots of other stuff from them, I really like dealing with them a lot.
 
good info... I resotred to using a water neck adpater from morso (the type that has a 1.5 inch hose on one side and a 1.25 inch hose on the other) when I first installed my 5.7 due to the top radiator hose on the water neck being the next size smaller or larger (I'v forgotten) now, then later we cut the cap part off and weleded that up and then really got motivated and I had the water neck on the radiator modified. I think the moros item is called something else but it basically looks like one of the large hose adapters with a radiator cap built in as part of it.

Did not know about those..thanks for posting... I searched hi and low on the web...
 
Kinda wish I knew these were avail. I just turn mine out of stainless or brass.
 
Do they make, or will they make a 5/8" version of the splicer with just a bleeder in it ? I'd like to put one in the heater hose that runs from the head to the top inlet of the heater valve (FJ60), on the firewall. I've found that's a very good place to get the air out of the 2F system.

I've used those prestone plastic "T"'s, but they're crapola ....

I already have a mechanical gauge temp sender in the upper rad hose or I'd use one of their "sight glass" versions.

Thanks!

:)

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Thanks for posting that link frank. Lots of valuable information and well worth reading. A must for anybody doing a Vortec swap.

Funny thing is, a few months ago I had a cruiser in here that had a Vortec swap done by another shop ( claiming to be "the" Vortec swap experts ) and the steam port was plugged up. Literally with a bolt stuck in a piece of hose and a hose clamp. They claimed that was "stock setup the way gm installed it". :lol:
 
@orangefj45 and @MANUCHAO, I'm about to order one of these for my swap and plan on getting the high-speed one with the steam vent, sight glass, and bleeder. However, the website asks me to specify 1/4, 5/16, or 3/8 for the steam vent. I have the same 2006 L59 as Manuchao; can you guys recommend which size? Thanks in advance!
 
Sorry, can't help yah there as I still have not got one for my rig...(still hooked up to the heater lines--no bueno--)
Im debating on getting a steam port burn into the top off the radiator
 
That's the question - I don't know what size hose for the steam vent. I was thinking of running -4an fittings and hose, but this steam port thing is something I just started researching. I gotta figure it out soon though because I need that splicer ASAP. What would you recommend? I think there are three ports coming off the block...
 
Good question. I just got back from Hong Kong and I'm still in Virginia; I'll be in Georgia tomorrow and will have eyeballs on my FJ for the first time since this swap started. I'll get back to you from there over the weekend. If you have the part how fast can you ship? I should've figured this out weeks ago but it just slipped my mind...
 
Drilling and tapping the thermostat housing for the steam port is not a good way to go. The steam port is there as the highest point in the cooling system in the engine and is designed to remove air, in the form of steam from the cooling system. It should be dumped into the top of the radiator if possible, where the air and water will separate. This can be done with a steam port on a splicer or built into the radiator.

By dumping the steam into the thermostat housing you are intentionally introducing air into the main flow of the system. At least you are still running cool. :)

LS%20cooling%20system%20-%20numbered%20-%20pressure.jpg
 
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