Jonathan Ferguson's 1985 Toyota Hilux LN65

Jonathan_Ferguson

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Glen Waverley, Victoria, Australia
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Saturday, 8 November, 2008

Visited the Engine Builder yesterday, he's going to look into it and send the Injector Pump to be redone. Just this afternoon I disconnected everything in order to pull the Engine out, all done within a few hours. Then all I'll have to do is remove the Bonnet and undo the four Engine Mounts' nuts and bolts.
 

Jonathan_Ferguson

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Friday, 30 January, 2009

Visited the Engine Builder again today, all he's done for me is remove the Head and have the Injectors and Injector Pump rebuilt by someplace called John's Diesel in Hallam. - No refund, no replacement, no repair, no compensation.
All I can do is pay for it to be done from scratch again, this time I'll supply the parts, also this time I'm planning to get a gnarly Camshaft grind.

I just don't understand why it's so difficult to get work done properly on a Diesel Otto cycle engine.
 

Jonathan_Ferguson

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Friday, 13 February, 2009

Another visit to the Engine Builder, this time speaking with David, a much better experience.
The gnarly Camshaft is off the agenda, from what David said a Diesel Engine doesn't benefit from a Camshaft with longer duration than standard. - Didn't mention Lobe Separation Angle.
Onto the good news, David is going to order in a set of 3L Pistons to compare the distance of the Gudgeon Pin to the Crown. Other items he's going to check are the Liner thicknesseses. David even knew the difference between the 2L and 3L Conrod Bush and Connectingrod, which is that the 2L is parallel into the Piston, whereas the 3L has a giant chamfer to fit inside the Piston and David already has a plan to machine the 2L Conrods. All this for 78 thousandths of an inch.
 

Jonathan_Ferguson

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Saturday, 14 February, 2009

sierrajim said:
How many times can you rebuild an engine before it's doing more damage than good? Has your block been machined too much?
I'm waiting for conformation, but the chap did say that he believes that he used 0.040" Pistons previously. I now can't remember if he said that the Bigend or Main Bearings he used last time were 0.010", either way, 0.025", 0.050" and 0.075" are available for both.
 

Jonathan_Ferguson

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Thursday, 25 June, 2009

Today was the big day.
I picked the Engine up last Friday and pony'd up $1,846.06 for essentially just replacing the Piston Rings, re-honing the cylinder bores and having the Injectors and Injector Pump reconditioned, but they did check all the specs and the only issues were that the Tappets were way loose and that the Engine had such low compression that it could be turned over by hand by twisting the Crank pulley.
I had the Engine installed the same day, and last night I just had to install a new Clutch line clip(the original went flying when I tried to reinstall it), bleed the Clutch and disconnect the Battery from the Charger, and the backup battery, and the backup's backup battery. - I initially thought the Starter motor was bad, so I pulled it out on Tuesday and upon testing it with a known good battery instead of the one that had been sitting for the last 8 months.
I didn't post earlier in case I jinxed myself.
Anyway, today I set off at quarter past six this morning and arrived back home at five past six this evening. - No battery drama, in fact no drama of any kind in the 817km to Cann River via Bruthen and back via Lakes Entrance.
I bought diesel in Sale going both ways and in the first stint I averaged 11.311 L/100km which included 205km prior to the rebuild and 184km to Sale, then to Cann River and back I completed 447km averaging 10.8881 L/100km - Compared to the first rebuild when I was using between 11.7 and 15 L/100km
Other observations are that the Exhaust Gas Temperature is significantly lower, in the region of 100 - 150 °C lower. The car will now easily do 100 in 100km/h zones and will repeatedly creep up to 105 so I have to take my foot off the throttle, also 110km/h is now continually possible as is 120km/h on the highway.
The only change I made to the setup of the car is that I replaced the Donalson TopSpin, because it developed a crack, with a Cummins Filtration AP8408.

Tomorrow I'll change out the oil with the Chevron CI-4 Plus I recently got.
 

Jonathan_Ferguson

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Tuesday, 30 Jun, 2009

scotto said:
Anything special about that oil JF?
Is it natural or synthetic, I read a couple of old articles in 4wd monthly recently about differences between the two, while I use the older style, I wonder if there is a big difference for these older diesels...
Latest is the greatest and is backwards compatible. Have a read of this document from the American Petroleum Institute - The diesel engine oil ratings are on page 3
Here is an interesting article published by a group primarily interested in the Cummins B series of Engines.

I bought the Chevron CI-4 Plus mail order from LubesOnline.com.au located in Penrith for the grand total of $136.90

Prior to the Chevron CI-4 Plus I was using Repco SAE 15W/40 API CI-4/SL made by Mobil, which a few weeks ago I saw priced at $29.95 for 5 Litres which is still a very good price for a product that has a more recent rating than most on the shelf, including boutique branded oils. it's just that I was looking for a CI-4 Plus or CJ-4 rated oil, so I voted $5 more per bottle from my Wallet. - I used the last of the Mobil product I had on the 817km trip to run the Engine in.
 

Jonathan_Ferguson

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Friday, 12 February, 2010

I am very unimpressed with this Rust Bullet product, having had the Bullbar fitted just shy of a week, it's already showing signs of rust.

The total cost of repainting the Bullbar, Sidesteps and Towbar was $1,313.29
Sandblasting $320.00
Spraypainting $550.00
4 US Quarts of Rust Bullet Automotive Formula $342.90
Gub Filter $11.00
Gub Regulator $22.44
1.7mm tip Spraygub $66.95

The problem with touching up Rust Bullet is that being a moisture cured polyurethane means that the amount of humidity and moisture content in the air affects the rate of curing and thus its shade of grey.
 

Jonathan_Ferguson

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Friday, 12 February, 2010

Gerg said:
holy s***! why didn't you get them powdercoated?
Because single stage moisture cured polyurethanes are supposed to be a lot less susceptible to abrasion compared to Powdercoat, as well as being more resistant to chemicals.

I only went with Rust Bullet because they publish tip sizes to use, unlike KBS and POR which only list the air pressure to use.
 

Jonathan_Ferguson

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Thursday, 5 August, 2010

Here are the expenses of the Alternator rebuild:

Items needed that I already had
Tube of Rubber Grease
Tube of Anaerobic Gasket Goo

Auto Electrics Australia
1 x BHD1240 Brush Holder $48.24

CBC Australia
1 x TC12412 Oil Seal $5.30
1 x 33630 Nickel Antiseize Grease 28g 15.40

Supercheap Auto
1 x 129926 Dielectric Grease 3g $4.95
1 x 10501 High Temp Oil Cooler Hose - 8mm $16.99

Toyota
1 x 90923-02089 Hose, Vacuum Pump $68.31
4 x 29331-56070 Blade, Vacuum Pump $101.20
1 x 93319-15008 Screw $1.43
1 x 90099-52082 Condenser $14.85
1 x 90099-14055 Packing, Vacuum Pump $10.67
1 x 96740-02063 Ring $4.73
2 x 96133-41500 Hose, Clip $10.56
1 x 90401-09001 Bolt, Vacuum Pump $5.94
4 x 90201-14099 Washer, Plate $13.20
1 x 90401-14033 Bolt $15.65
4 x 90430-10035 Gasket, Union $7.04
2 x 90401-10006 Union, Inj. $10.12
1 x 90404-51012 Union, Vacuum Pump $8.25
1 x 90923-02077 Hose, Oil Pump $65.45

Total $428.28

I had to get the Brush Holder from Auto Electrics Australia because the part is no longer available from Toyota and the other distributor of Denso parts Ashdown-Ingram sells only the individual Brushes as a pair for $20.00
Interesting to note is that Toyota doesn't list the Oil Seal in any documentation, so I had to get one from the local bearing shop, fortunately it's a generic size.
The High Temp Oil Cooler Hose is used as the Vacuum Hose that connects to the Vacuum Reservoir, I had to get it from from Supercheap Auto because it's no longer available from Toyota, it did have me worried until I disassembled everything to find out that the hose only needed to have plain ends.
The Rubber Grease was used to coat the brass bush style bearing and the Blades of the Vacuum Pump because they're made of plastic it needed a lubricant to run in 'til the engine oil made its way into the Vacuum Pump because the bottom half of the Vacuum Pump runs in oil.
Toyota's documentation lists a Condenser but not a part number, so I searched the Internet for the term 27350B and Condenser and I came across the site toyotapartszone.com and it's listing of a 1985 4Runner with a 2L.
 

Jonathan_Ferguson

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The original TIMER, PRE-HEATING is Toyota 28521-54120 and Nippon Denso 078400-0041

To make the glow plugs manually operable I knew that I first needed to find a female connector. Going through my stash of old parts I came across a connector of the same style but with less positions and conductors which is utilised in the under bonnet fuse box. This made me beleive that Toyota must have used the same connector in multiple locations.
By chance whilst at an autoparts store I went over to the audio section to see what types of connectors were in the packages used to adapt a genericised interconnection between a proprietary head unit connector and a OEM head unit connector. Inside of the package labeled "TO SUIT Toyota Larger 2-Plug Type" was the exact connector I needed along with plenty of wire colours to choose from. All I had to do then was carefully unpick the conductors from the conector and insert the quantity of wires and colours I wanted to use.

To find a switch to fit the OEM provision was impossible using the internet, so a trip to the autoelectrician was in order. Going through the Narva book there, there was a two direction double pole single throw momentary switch with the exact dimensions I required. The fellow said that he did not stock them but could order it in, I was OK with this, then he mentioned that he'll check if a parts store has it in stock, they did and this shop was just a few hundred metres away. - If Narva had put the effort into their internet site with the same details they list in their hardcopies it would of saved alot of my time and that of the autoelectrician who made no money out of my acqusition.

Both directions of the switch when pushed conducts the circuit between pins 7 [Ground] and 8 [Glow Indicator Light], whilst the other circuit conducts the circuit between pins 1 [Glow Plug Relay] and 3 [Ignition].

Here are the expenses of the hokey Glowplug Timer:

Repco
Aerpro APP0140 $11.90

Supercheap Auto
Power Take Off - 6 Piece, Red $7.49
Tridon Electrical Terminals - Butt Connector, Red, 100 Pack $19.99
SCA Electrical Terminals - Female Blade, Red, 6.3mm, 10 Pack $4.49
SCA Auto Cable - 7m, 3mm, White, Single Core, 10 Amp $8.49
SCA Auto Cable - 7m, 3mm, Blue, Single Core, 10 Amp $8.49
SCA Auto Cable - 7m, 3mm, Red, Single Core, 10 Amp $8.49
SCA Auto Cable - 7m, 3mm, Black, Single Core, 10 Amp $8.49

Burson Automotive
56713-3 NARVA 13mm x 3m SPLIT SLEEVE TUBING $9.15
63044BL NARVA H.D. ROCKER SWITCH $22.20

Items needed that I already had
Heatshrink

Total $109.18

The bootyfab preheating timer cost significantly more than I anticipated and also cost more than the TIMER, PREHEATING 28521-54560 which I acquired for AU$62.99 + AU$31.51 Postage = AU$94.50 from Dekada Trading [Amayama] in the United Arab Emirates.

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Jonathan_Ferguson

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Success :)
The only complication was that the hole for the switch needed to be filed about 2mm wider on each side where the body(not the fascia) of the switch resides..

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Enjoyed reading through this one. I've got an 87 LN65 in Canada I'm building right now. You got anymore pictures of this rig? How many KM have you gotten on the chassis?
 

Jonathan_Ferguson

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327,971km at this very moment. The Gearbox and Transfercase haven't been opened, I've done the rear outputshaft oil seal twice and the front outputshaft oil seal once. The front propeller shaft has the original bearings, and the front differential has the original bearings, crownwheel and pinion. The steering is original except for tierod ends and the dampener.

The most recent photographs are at:
http://bind.tk/Jonathan-Ferguson/Photographs/Nokia-N900/8-July-2013/Alpine-National-Park/
http://bind.tk/Jonathan-Ferguson/Photographs/Nokia-N900/18-April-2013/Wirilda-Environment-Park/
 
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I can't open those pages but those are great numbers in my mind. My 87 only has 207km on it, looks like u-joints have all been replaced, steering is all original. Front axle needs a reseal as well as the oil sump but overall excellent shape.

How is your rebuilt engine doing? Have you ever thought about a turbo for it?
 

Jonathan_Ferguson

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I can't open those pages
Power outage and the UPS ran out. It is up now.

How is your rebuilt engine doing? Have you ever thought about a turbo for it?
The engine is fantastic as is and still can maintain the maximum speed limit of 110km/h on Victorian highways with ease.
I did think about a turbocharger, but the main problem was that there wasn't a single kit per se and I would of needed to reinvent the wheel, the other problem is that it would of been a band-aide solution. The action I took was the second rebuild and have the Injector Pump adjusted to authentic OEM numbers. - I'm glad I did because its been perfectly reliable and perfectly powerful.
 
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That's good news for me. I have thought about the idea of going with a minor 4-5psi turbo setup for a while now because of the mountains in this area but I don't have enough hours in the drivers seat yet to justify it. Once I'm starting to get through the pile of maintenance I think I'll get some runs in, send out the pump and injectors for rebuild and see how much comfortable the hills are.

Nice pictures too, I definitely need to get down there someday and explore. My life would be a lot easier if I could find one of those canopies for my short box too!

I haven't done much on this truck due to my 88 just selling but here's a link to the progress http://www.overlandcanada.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2772
 

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