JBL Synthesis Sound Audio System Speaker Wiring Diagram Pinouts (1 Viewer)

[ekolpack]

Hopefully this will be helpful to someone, some day.

I wasn't able to find the speaker/wiring harness pinout for my 2008 LC200 VX (US version) with JBL Synthesis sound package. FSM didn't specify JBL, so I assume it was not. I found this great resource, but again, not JBL.

I'm upgrading the speakers/amps/DSP in my LC, so needed to confirm all the speaker wiring. The attached PDF can be used to figure out which connections on the wiring harness that plugs into the JBL Synthesis amp correspond to different speakers and power. This can be helpful, if, like me, you want to swap out the JBL speakers and amp, which are both pretty terrible, at least by my snobby audio engineer standards. Aloha!

PS: I've included BOTH the factory non-JBL pinout AND the one I modified for my JBL system....just in case the linked website ever disappears. I hate when that happens!

 

[kcobourn]

I'm upgrading the speakers/amps/DSP in my LC, so needed to confirm all the speaker wiring. The attached PDF can be used to figure out which connections on the wiring harness that plugs into the JBL Synthesis amp correspond to different speakers and power. This can be helpful, if, like me, you want to swap out the JBL speakers and amp, which are both pretty terrible, at least by my snobby audio engineer standards. Aloha!

Thanks for sharing this. I'm on the other side of a competition quality (IASCA) SQ build & have quite a few learnings from the process to share. Until I get the time for a post here are a few that might be useful to you ...

- The JBL engineering on the speaker locations are EXCELLENT as-is. I squeeze a set of Illusion Carbon 4" midranges, 8" midbass, & their 1" tweeters in factory locations with incredible results. RIP Illusion Audio is no longer. I've got a spare 3-way in case of failures ... PM me for recos if you want recos
- JBL processing happens at the head unit & summing a full signal is next to impossible due (all pass filters, amongst other stuff).
- Mozart's zLink carplay interface is worth the effort to get a full signal to work with vs. messing with the JBL stuff.
- Apparently our trucks like to 'spike' voltage at startup & fry sensitive DSPs. Avoid Mosconi Picos but you can count on their Aerospace lines!
- Be prepared to just buy a new set of clips for all the interior panels after installing the sound deadening.
- If you bypass the JBL system you CAN get a PAC SWI-X interface to make the steering wheel controls work (they're ANALOG). Forget about the volume knob unless you're willing to solder stuff . NOTE; no longer made but Custom Sounds in Texas may have a few.
- If you don't go infinite baffle don't be afraid of isobaric to get enough cone to produce a nice response. I've recorded 135 dBs @ 32 hz 'not trying'.
- You may have to move your rear HVAC sensors depending on how 'big' your build gets. That's if you value rear A/C & heating functionality.

 

[ekolpack]

Thanks for sharing this. I'm on the other side of a competition quality (IASCA) SQ build & have quite a few learnings from the process to share. Until I get the time for a post here are a few that might be useful to you ...

- The JBL engineering on the speaker locations are EXCELLENT as-is. I squeeze a set of Illusion Carbon 4" midranges, 8" midbass, & their 1" tweeters in factory locations with incredible results. RIP Illusion Audio is no longer. I've got a spare 3-way in case of failures ... PM me for recos if you want recos
- JBL processing happens at the head unit & summing a full signal is next to impossible due (all pass filters, amongst other stuff).
- Mozart's zLink carplay interface is worth the effort to get a full signal to work with vs. messing with the JBL stuff.
- Apparently our trucks like to 'spike' voltage at startup & fry sensitive DSPs. Avoid Mosconi Picos but you can count on their Aerospace lines!
- Be prepared to just buy a new set of clips for all the interior panels after installing the sound deadening.
- If you bypass the JBL system you CAN get a PAC SWI-X interface to make the steering wheel controls work (they're ANALOG). Forget about the volume knob unless you're willing to solder stuff . NOTE; no longer made but Custom Sounds in Texas may have a few.
- If you don't go infinite baffle don't be afraid of isobaric to get enough cone to produce a nice response. I've recorded 135 dBs @ 32 hz 'not trying'.
- You may have to move your rear HVAC sensors depending on how 'big' your build gets. That's if you value rear A/C & heating functionality.

Thanks for the info. I decided to go with a "Tesla style" android head unit with the UIS7862 chip that supports digital optical out, this allows use of a real DSP and fancy amps. For that, I got a MiniDSP Harmony (12ch out) and for the front speakers, Biketronics amps, which contain Hypex UcD amp modules which are absolutely stellar (outclassed only by their super high end Ncore series modules).

Drivers are all Morel MW and hybrid up front (low, mids, highs, and center), Focals in back, and Kicker coaxials in the tail. Image Dynamics IDQ sub (upgraded to 10" using an LX570 sub enclosure).

So I effectively deleted ALL of the JBL stuff, and the entire factory audio system and replaced it with custom everything. The stock "upgraded" JBL drivers sound terrible. I own a commercial recording studio and do lots of professional live sound, often using JBL pro stuff. I generally like their stuff....it's no Meyer or L'Acoustics, but it's fine. But the JBL drivers in the LC200 are crap. They're typical cheap generic driver quality, horrible sound that requires tons of DSP/EQ to fix. And they're all 2 ohm......2 ohm??? Who does that? So if you replace just the drivers with "upgraded" drivers, without pulling the factory amp/DSP unit, two things will happen:

1. Since 2 ohm drivers aren't really a thing, you'll be using min 4 ohm drivers, which will pull half as much wattage and yield roughly half the volume (sensitivity being equal).
2. The massive amounts of EQ/DSP required to make the garbage JBL speakers sound acceptable will now be layered on top of your good speakers, probably making them sound terrible.

So you'll get roughly half the volume and still have bad sq, possibly WORSE sound, because the EQ curve on the stock amp/DSP is specifically designed to compensate the specific JBL stock drivers. That same curve applied to other drivers will just throw them completely out of whack. So a perfectly flat driver that would sound great with no DSP, will now be perfectly flat PLUS whatever drastic EQ/DSP is applied in the factory HU to make those stock speakers sound acceptable.

The only way around this, as far as I could discern, was the pull the entire audio system and start from scratch. It's a lot of time and $$$ and work, but it should be worth it in the long run.

 

[ekolpack]

Oh, also, apparently (we'll see), the EKIY head unit I got retains the steering wheel controls via a CAN bus interface. We'll see how this works in actual practice. If the volume rockers are indeed analog, that won't work, but if they are, they'd have to be controlling a transistor (VCA)....more likely they're an analog component that controls a DCA, which may (???) be accessible via the CAN bus.

 

[kcobourn]

The only way around this, as far as I could discern, was the pull the entire audio system and start from scratch. It's a lot of time and $$$ and work, but it should be worth it in the long run.

Agreed. Once you nail the integration & get the tuning done it's all worth it.

My path was to use a Mozart interface (it's using zLink / Andriod OS): Toyota Land Cruiser Apple CarPlay Upgrade (2016 - 2021) - https://mozartelectronics.com/products/toyota-land-cruiser-apple-carplay

This produced a summed signal & integrated through the Aux input that's routed to a Mosconi 6to8 AeroSpace. It fit nicely next to the factory amp.

The volume knob not working isn't a big deal because I've got an Alpine remote + a Moscono miniController + the PAC steering wheel interface to support. What's cool is that the zLink still allows the factory parking sensors to work.

The 3-way fits really nicely all you might notice is the Illusion tweeters.

The 6x9 door speakers can be easily modified to support the 8" midbass path I took as well.

The isobaric 2x 18" Fi SQ subs are freaking incredible when you tune them properly. They're running just fine on 6 cubic feet sealed + 1000 watt JL VXi.