Jason's FJ6.0 Vortec Overland Build

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

The only issues I really noticed is the front tires hit the sway bar during a tight turn. Not sure how I'm gonna fix that one if I stick with the 35s. ]

from the pic, it would seem good to reverse those bolts of the sway bar so that the bolt ends face IN not OUT where they hit the tire

dougbert
 
Tach guage was modded by hollywood tach here in LA.
speedo, oil pressure and water temp no workie, ... never got around wiring it.....
I would not trust the water temp gauge...
 
from the pic, it would seem good to reverse those bolts of the sway bar so that the bolt ends face IN not OUT where they hit the tire

dougbert
The Tire hits the sway bar 2-3 inches behind the bolt, never makes contact with the bolt. It seems like stock 60s have the sway bar in front of the axle, and this one is mounted behind. Not exactly sure why and I still can't think of a way to fix this problem, but its driving me crazy already! I thought about trying to bend the bar in, but they are already pretty close to the leaf springs. Tried searching and I can't seem to find anyone else who has had this issue?? It already has wheel spacers and definitely don't want to space the wheels out further. I'm also afraid the issue will be much worse when I get it off road and its flexing and turning!
 
I was having this issue when i swapped out my 62 axle for an 80. The only way that 80 sway bar would mount is forward (essentially the polar opposite of your problem). If bend the sway bar it will eventually rub with the leaf springs. What I'm hoping is the solution is a set of air bags that arrived today. I'll know in a week when I install them if it works.
 
I was having this issue when i swapped out my 62 axle for an 80. The only way that 80 sway bar would mount is forward (essentially the polar opposite of your problem). If bend the sway bar it will eventually rub with the leaf springs. What I'm hoping is the solution is a set of air bags that arrived today. I'll know in a week when I install them if it works.

Is your plan to install the airbags and remove the sway bar all together, and hope the airbags are enough to keep things level?
 
Is your plan to install the airbags and remove the sway bar all together, and hope the airbags are enough to keep things level?
I'm running it without a rear sway bar right now. It's not bad to be honest, but I just added a roof rack and about to add a RTT, so it's gonna be top heavy. I need to level it an keep it from swaying on turns. In theory the air bags are the cheapest solution since the sway bar wont work. We'll see.
 
Hey for an air filter box check out Unique Metal Products. They make some nice air boxes, not cheap but nice. I am going to put one in my v8 80 and another truck. In my 80 I got the same exposed K&N filter which by the way has a tendency to pop MAF codes.

Cheers
 
So I spent the day working on the FJ6.0 Drove it up to my Girlfriends dads house where I am keeping my blue 60 to work in his driveway. Got the Scan Gauge 2 installed and adjusted correctly. I removed the Ashtray and installed the gauge there, which works but it is a little further out of my line of vision than I would like, I just can't figure out a better place at the moment, where it wouldn't stick out like a sore thumb. I definitely need to get a new trim ring for around the heater controls, this one has about 5 cracks, seems like these are hard to find in good uncracked condition though.

photo-35.webp


It is averaging about 14mpg on the highway keeping it around 65mph. At 65mph my RPMs are over 2300, which I feel is a little high, probably due to the 4.88 gears, I think the fuel economy would be a bit better if I had 4.11s, but then I'd lose a bit of low range off road, Always a give and take.

Using the scan feature on it though brought up 5 codes that I need to look into. I am hoping they are just from the engine install and hadn't been cleared out, but I am not sure. Codes are PO171, PO174, PO461, PO463, and PO650. Anyone know a site that lists what the codes mean? Maybe one of these is from the K&N like RMP&O suggested, and I agree a air filter box might be a smart move, I'll look into it!

Couldn't help taking a shot of the twins side by side.
IMG_7964.webp
 
Codes are PO171, PO174, PO461, PO463, and PO650. Anyone know a site that lists what the codes mean? Maybe one of these is from the K&N like RMP&O suggested, and I agree a air filter box might be a smart move, I'll look into it!

Couldn't help taking a shot of the twins side by side.

Here is what I get,

P0171 - Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1
P0174 - Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 2
P0461 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0463 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0650 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp(MIL) Control Circuit

So nothing to do with the MAF.

Codes from here,

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f107/diagnostic-trouble-codes-198381/


Cheers
 
Oh great thanks RMP&O Thats super helpful!

The truck doesn't have a check engine light so I guess thats why the last one is going off. Another thing to add to the list, figure out how to wire in a check engine light. Gonna try clearing the other codes and see if they come back.

Also I measured the fender heights on the stock truck, 20.5 front, 18.5 Rear. So basically the SOA is about a 7" lift over stock.
 
The truck doesn't have a check engine light so I guess thats why the last one is going off. Another thing to add to the list, figure out how to wire in a check engine light.
I am using my choke indicator light as my check engine light.....
 
7" is a lot, I think you can get to 5" and stay SoA. But maybe 5" is still to tall for you?

In my v8 80 the check engine light is simply a small yellow light added to the dash.

Cheers
 
Little update for today. I have my scan gauge in and working, however it doesn't save any of my previous trip info, so my tank resets to full and it can't record average fuel economy over multiple trips. I called customer service and they asked if my scan gauge turns off immediately when I turn the engine off, I said yes and they said it is supposed to stay on for about 10 seconds and in this 10 seconds it records the data. They said this is an issue in certain cars and they don't have a fix for it? So basically all they told me was that it won't work. So I am kinda bummed about that and am going to research to see if there is a way to fix that, so far my google searches have been fruitless.

I also swapped in my Headunit which is great but gave me a huge headache. I cut out the old harness and wired in my new one, and plugged it in, turned on the ignition to test it and nothing, checked all the power connections ten times and still nothing, then as a last ditch guess I plugged in the antennae which I don't typically do until I am ready to put in the dash and then it worked! Why would plugging in the antennae make it work? All I could imagine is some kind of ground issue?

Also installed my smittybuilt center console, however I had the idea to reupholster the pad on it with the same fabric thats on the seats, only problem is where to get some. I put an ad up on the WTB section hoping someone has a junk seat they wouldn't mind cutting me off 16 inches square of decent grey material for a little $$, no luck yet!

Today at work someone left Flowers on my truck, trying to find out who did it, was it a friend just being nice to me or someone who loves cruisers so much they left them for the truck itself? haha May never know!

10170856_10100226314850605_1615655177_n.webp


Still debating on the Suspension set up. If I could drop it down to a 5 inch lift relatively easily I would probably do that, but I think I would need to french the shackles into the frame like many people have suggested which doesn't look easy and beyond my ability (no welder) Also I would have to rework the rear dual exhaust as it would then interfere with the leaf springs.

Other 2 options: a fellow mudder in NY said he might be interested in swapping his front housing and 4" Alcan Suspension for my set up. Would work out well for both of us, but would have to figure out where to meet up and get all the work done relatively quickly.

A cruiser shop in NH offered to trade a new full OME kit with 4+ ubolt flip kit for my SOA parts and $2500, they would do all the labor and supply a stock front axle housing. This one is really tempting because it is really the exact setup I want with 33x10.5 tires and it would be done professionally, so hopefully I wouldn't have to worry about any funky issues afterwards.

Lots to think about! But I am loving the truck in her current form!
 
A cruiser shop in NH offered to trade a new full OME kit with 4+ ubolt flip kit for my SOA parts and $2500, they would do all the labor and supply a stock front axle housing. This one is really tempting because it is really the exact setup I want with 33x10.5 tires and it would be done professionally, so hopefully I wouldn't have to worry about any funky issues afterwards.

This sounds like a good option, the main concerns I would have as I spoke of earlier would be differential clearance and exhaust issues, if your gonna go this route, I would rebuild the front axle as you would have it apart anyway....enjoying your progress with your FJ6.0...
 
This sounds like a good option, the main concerns I would have as I spoke of earlier would be differential clearance and exhaust issues, if your gonna go this route, I would rebuild the front axle as you would have it apart anyway....enjoying your progress with your FJ6.0...
The PO said the front axle was just serviced at the same time the 4.88 gears where installed only a few months ago, so I doubt much work is needed, however I am tempted to replace the axles and birfs with longfields, just to be on the safe side.


This looks like a great idea, but I would somehow have to install it before the computer to somehow let it run for an extra 10 seconds once the ignition is turned off so that the scan gauge can download the data. Not sure if the delay would also just trick the computer into thinking the car is still running for those 10 seconds and therefore the scan gauge wouldn't even start downloading, its making my head hurt just thinking about it.

Thanks for all the input guys!!
 
Little update for today. I have my scan gauge in and working, however it doesn't save any of my previous trip info, so my tank resets to full and it can't record average fuel economy over multiple trips. I called customer service and they asked if my scan gauge turns off immediately when I turn the engine off, I said yes and they said it is supposed to stay on for about 10 seconds and in this 10 seconds it records the data.

FYI mine does stay on a few sencods after I turn it off, in fact at the beginning I was afraid it would not turn off and drain my battery.
I think the problem with this is your PCM, and/or wire harness...
 
So talked to someone else at scan gauge who said that the OBD2 port must be wired to the ignition instead of the battery. So it is supposed to be wired to the battery instead, so 1 more thing to add to the list, electrical is def not my thing, so not looking forward to that.

I got to take her offroad this past weekend for the first time and it was really fun. The trails were relatively easy except for a few tight spots through trees. But it was awesome to get a feel for how it handles off road. Overall I was very pleased. Very easy to drive, I even let my girlfriend drive it and she didn't want to give up the drivers seat, she especially liked taking it through the deep water holes.

photo(3).webp
photo(6).webp
photo(4).webp
photo(5).webp
 
Back
Top Bottom