- Thread starter
- #21
Thanks GLTHFJ60, It does look great, but not much of my work in her yet, hopefully soon!
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The only issues I really noticed is the front tires hit the sway bar during a tight turn. Not sure how I'm gonna fix that one if I stick with the 35s. ]
The Tire hits the sway bar 2-3 inches behind the bolt, never makes contact with the bolt. It seems like stock 60s have the sway bar in front of the axle, and this one is mounted behind. Not exactly sure why and I still can't think of a way to fix this problem, but its driving me crazy already! I thought about trying to bend the bar in, but they are already pretty close to the leaf springs. Tried searching and I can't seem to find anyone else who has had this issue?? It already has wheel spacers and definitely don't want to space the wheels out further. I'm also afraid the issue will be much worse when I get it off road and its flexing and turning!from the pic, it would seem good to reverse those bolts of the sway bar so that the bolt ends face IN not OUT where they hit the tire
dougbert
I was having this issue when i swapped out my 62 axle for an 80. The only way that 80 sway bar would mount is forward (essentially the polar opposite of your problem). If bend the sway bar it will eventually rub with the leaf springs. What I'm hoping is the solution is a set of air bags that arrived today. I'll know in a week when I install them if it works.
I'm running it without a rear sway bar right now. It's not bad to be honest, but I just added a roof rack and about to add a RTT, so it's gonna be top heavy. I need to level it an keep it from swaying on turns. In theory the air bags are the cheapest solution since the sway bar wont work. We'll see.Is your plan to install the airbags and remove the sway bar all together, and hope the airbags are enough to keep things level?
Codes are PO171, PO174, PO461, PO463, and PO650. Anyone know a site that lists what the codes mean? Maybe one of these is from the K&N like RMP&O suggested, and I agree a air filter box might be a smart move, I'll look into it!
Couldn't help taking a shot of the twins side by side.
I am using my choke indicator light as my check engine light.....The truck doesn't have a check engine light so I guess thats why the last one is going off. Another thing to add to the list, figure out how to wire in a check engine light.
A cruiser shop in NH offered to trade a new full OME kit with 4+ ubolt flip kit for my SOA parts and $2500, they would do all the labor and supply a stock front axle housing. This one is really tempting because it is really the exact setup I want with 33x10.5 tires and it would be done professionally, so hopefully I wouldn't have to worry about any funky issues afterwards.
The PO said the front axle was just serviced at the same time the 4.88 gears where installed only a few months ago, so I doubt much work is needed, however I am tempted to replace the axles and birfs with longfields, just to be on the safe side.This sounds like a good option, the main concerns I would have as I spoke of earlier would be differential clearance and exhaust issues, if your gonna go this route, I would rebuild the front axle as you would have it apart anyway....enjoying your progress with your FJ6.0...
get a relay with a delay to power that meter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-DC-12V-...ay-Switch-Module-0-to-10-Second-/371016953107
dougbert
Little update for today. I have my scan gauge in and working, however it doesn't save any of my previous trip info, so my tank resets to full and it can't record average fuel economy over multiple trips. I called customer service and they asked if my scan gauge turns off immediately when I turn the engine off, I said yes and they said it is supposed to stay on for about 10 seconds and in this 10 seconds it records the data.