Build Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build

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There is im sure. I checked it when it was assembled and it was good. The gasket blew on the head side of the gasket. The engine side sealed fine from the looks of it.

I got the injectors back today and they are fine, correct crack puressure of 185bar. So they are ready to go when the head is back in.

I also dropped off the head today to get the valves done and crack tested. Should have it back tomorrow mid day. So I may actually get the head back on tomorrow (as long as nothing is in need of replacemrnt when they get in there).

I spent most of the day today cleaning the block surface and cleaning up/finishing the wiring. I now have the exhaust break wired up and the low oil pressure warning light wired as well.

Tomorrow in going to loom the wiring and wire in the speedo correction yellow box.
 
Today I got the last of my wiring cleaned up. I left a few wires in the harness for future expantion if needed. I then just wrapped it in electrical tape as I hate the dirt holding abilities of convelute loom. I also secured it in a few more spots and got it all re run in the engine bay. Tested the exhaust break solinoid and its working off the OD switch on the shifter that is no longer used for the trans. Low oil pressure warning light/buzzer lead is wired in but not hooked up yet.

I also got my head back today its not got any cracks and is flat within .001 tho. The valves where redone as 3 where leaking and not done properly first round. They look great now he also checked the deck and said the finish should be fine for a metal head gasket. Compared it too a finnish of 90 on there scale? Said anything from 70-110 is good for a MLS head gasket.

I then repainted the head and got it ready to go on.


Then got it back on the engine with the new headgasket (OEM) in place.


Old head bolts vs new.


And torqued down.




That is as far as I got tonight, only had a couple hours to work on it after getting the head back.

Next I need to get the valve train in and adjust them. From there it should go fairly quickly.
 
ARE your new head bolts the stretch type (TTY) and if so did you torque accordingly.
In a Toyota engine, the difference between " Normal" and TTY bolts look exactly the same as your picture.

Well done for hanging in the way you have
G
 
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Gengis said:
ARE your new head bolts the stretch type (TTY) and if so did you torque accordingly.
In a Toyota engine, the difference between " Normal" and TTY bolts look exactly the same as your picture.

Well done for hanging in the way you have
G
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Nope they are just a part supersession as far as I know. There is nothing in the manual about using TTY bolts. I have not actually seen any bolts in this engine that are TTY bolts. I checked a few other Isuzu engines and none of them are TTY bolts for the head.

Isuzu does have a specific torque sequence of 50ft/lbs then 65ft/lbs followed by a final 90* turn.
 
Wheelingnoob said:
Nope they are just a part supersession as far as I know. There is nothing in the manual about using TTY bolts. I have not actually seen any bolts in this engine that are TTY bolts. I checked a few other Isuzu engines and none of them are TTY bolts for the head.

Isuzu does have a specific torque sequence of 50ft/lbs then 65ft/lbs followed by a final 90* turn.
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Came across a "final 90 turn" when I did my valve springs on the Cummins. First time I had seen something like that. I had two sets of directions. One said 28,62,90, 90* turn and the other had a final for 120ft lbs. I did the 120 and it looked about the same as a 90 turn.
Glad your on the home stretch.
 
Sooooo close now!! Can't wait to see this finally running/performing as you first hoped it would!
 
Got a bit more done today. Got the AC and alternator back on. Valve rocker assembly in and adjusted. Valve cover on and sealed. Exhaust manifold on and glow plug system setup and ready finally for power. Its slowly getting there, its my work week now so onlybhave a hour here and there to work on it.
 
Wheelingnoob said:
Got it to the point I can start it tonight. Just need to get my new heater control valve and finish the plumbing.
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Nice. Keep us updated on how it goes.
 
Hopefully Jeremy will fire this sucker up tonight and put this fight to bed once and for all!
 
Got it running today, have not done much other than drive it home from the shop. Seems to start much better and not smoke anywhere near as bad as it was before. Seems a bit quieter at idle strangely enough.

Not sure if its solved my coolant bubble issue as it seemed to still have some but that maybe just air working its way out of the system. Fingers crossed.
 
Hope you can put some miles on it over the weekend and report back that your EGT's are happy, the bubbles are gone, and you smoke no more!
 
Had no time to drive it other than a quick run to the performance shop to get the wrong bloody sized push lock hose for the vacuum pump lines....not a cheap mistake.

Cooling system seems to be working as it should, the overflow bottle was down about 200ml after a cool down from where it had been when I started cold. So its puling in coolant and purging air.

I have a drive pressure guage hooked up right now. The results are intresting ill post about once I have some concreat numbers. Im working all weekend but hope to get out in it for my next rotation of days off to get some miles on it.
 
gerg said:
Sounds promising. I'm very interested in your drive numbers
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Yeah my fingers are crossed, I have very little faith in this thing right now so I need to take it slow and build trust again.......like a scornd lover lol.

So far I was shocked to see at 10psi boost that I have almost 20psi drive. At 15psi I had around 22psi drive. I have not opend it up yet though....as much as one can open this slug up.

I still have a feeling I may end up with compounds just somthing proven on this engine that will allow me to max out the pump. Right now I feel this turbo is lacking any real guts.

I want to come up and talk over options and take you for a drive to get your impression in the next week or two.
 
Hmmm. What egts at those pressures? The cooler the egt the less thermal energy to convert. As far as I understand, the design of you turbine is not efficient at low boost, and gets better the more you push it.

I'd love to go for a drive and see how it performs and stuff. For sure We can see about a compound set up, but I think room will dictate turbo selection.
g
 
gerg said:
Hmmm. What egts at those pressures? The cooler the egt the less thermal energy to convert. As far as I understand, the design of you turbine is not efficient at low boost, and gets better the more you push it.

I'd love to go for a drive and see how it performs and stuff. For sure We can see about a compound set up, but I think room will dictate turbo selection.
g
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I do not have side by side EGT's yet but I have been tolping out at 1250f previousely. I do not know how I can drive this turbo any harder, I have tried 8 turns of preload basically locking it shut and every setting inbetween that and loose. No change still juat 18psi I can run higher but at that rate EGT' s are out of hand. Im going to check my boost pressures pre intercooler next and see what im getting for readings. If I have 30psi pre intercooler I have found my problem.
 
So I happen to have an extended tip 13t compressor your welcome to try out if you want. If you put that on your HL and put a td06 16g or went with a t3 60 trim, as both are very close in size, it would make your set up much more responsive and easily give you boost into the low 30s. Your HL has a garret flange in the inlet? That would make it much easier. If you kept the 19t on the HL as the small the map shifts and effeciency is lost. It's why I recomended. The 13t. Sucking hot dense air shifts the map a lot. As for tried and true compounds for this engine.... Sadly I don't think you have room for those sized turbos. I have all these parts sitting in my garage if you want to use them.
 
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