Isolated rust. Or is it?? (1 Viewer)

[Jfcol]

I've owned an 05LC for a couple of months now. Was blown away at the condition inside and out. Spent most of it's life in Maryland. Now with me in Atlanta. The only blemish, shown in the photo, is a rust bubble to the left of the rear wiper arm just beneath the glass on the hatch. But there are also signs of rust around the hatch latch and the courtesy lights as you can see from the photos. They were touched up by the seller but not very well. I read another thread about hatch rust issues but most seem to come from leaks around the third brake light. I am assuming this one wouldn't have originated from there. Is it simply a small leak around the glass molding? Any thoughts on how to address this? And do you think the water causing the rust bubble is also what's getting to the other areas along the bottom of the hatch as well? Thanks in advance. I really appreciate the advice.

 

[aging fleet]

The easiest/most cost effective way to address that rust may be to keep an eye on car-part.com for a second hand donor hatch in the same color.

 

[abuck99]

View attachment 1550162 View attachment 1550163 View attachment 1550164 I've owned an 05LC for a couple of months now. Was blown away at the condition inside and out. Spent most of it's life in Maryland. Now with me in Atlanta. The only blemish, shown in the photo, is a rust bubble to the left of the rear wiper arm just beneath the glass on the hatch. But there are also signs of rust around the hatch latch and the courtesy lights as you can see from the photos. They were touched up by the seller but not very well. I read another thread about hatch rust issues but most seem to come from leaks around the third brake light. I am assuming this one wouldn't have originated from there. Is it simply a small leak around the glass molding? Any thoughts on how to address this? And do you think the water causing the rust bubble is also what's getting to the other areas along the bottom of the hatch as well? Thanks in advance. I really appreciate the advice.

You really don't want to let that go. Getting that rust mitigated, and repainting the back hatch will run you about $500 locally. I went through a similar excercisebon my rear hatch. If you can find a white donor hatch, you may be better off, but paint will still run you $400-$500.

 

[Drogon]

I have a rust problem there as well. Even a few holes near the licence plate lights. I see a new upper and mabye even a lower hatch in my future.

 

[Jfcol]

The easiest/most cost effective way to address that rust may be to keep an eye on car-part.com for a second hand donor hatch in the same color.

Bookmarked and will keep checking. Thanks.

 

[Jfcol]

You really don't want to let that go. Getting that rust mitigated, and repainting the back hatch will run you about $500 locally. I went through a similar excercisebon my rear hatch. If you can find a white donor hatch, you may be better off, but paint will still run you $400-$500.

Did you also have the rust on the lower area? I'm assuming there's a lot I can't see inside the hatch shell itself. So can I ever really mitigate that? Or if they fix the leak does it just stay as it is and not get any worse?

 

[Kabanstva]

That's a very common rust spot on these vehicles. I have seen many 100s in the Chicago area that have rust holes on the lower section of the upper tail gate. From my understanding it's got to do with water leaking in through the seals of the 3rd brake light and sitting along the lower edge of the tailgate where you have the drain holes. The handle also has a sponge/foam seal around it that will hold water for long periods of time adding to the problem. If it was a northeastern truck than you can imagine all that road salt spray/washout getting into the cavities and creating the rust issue.

If you can't find a rust free replacement part. I would just take the tailgate apart, block off the drain holes (some masking tape) and pour Evaporust into the lower cavity and leave it for a few days while the truck sits somewhere. Then remove the tape, the Evaporust will drain out and hopefully it should be 100% rust free. If not, then repeat until all the rust is cleared out. There no such thing as too much rust unless you have actual holes in the metal where it rusted through. Proceed with a metal primer and paint and spray some kind of cavity wax (Wurth makes a great one) inside the tailgate to never have this problem again. I have heard people here using Fluid Film as well but that's not really a permanent product and would require constant reapplication every year or two depending on your weather and driving conditions.

 

[Kabanstva]

Finished result. This trunklid was actually submersed in a remover which you can also do. Or You can setup a tarp with a catch basin and a small utility pump (1/4 hp is more than plenty) to continuesly keep the areas wet that your trying to remove rust from. This way you're not using dozens of gallons of chemical.

 

[Jfcol]

That's a very common rust spot on these vehicles. I have seen many 100s in the Chicago area that have rust holes on the lower section of the upper tail gate. From my understanding it's got to do with water leaking in through the seals of the 3rd brake light and sitting along the lower edge of the tailgate where you have the drain holes. The handle also has a sponge/foam seal around it that will hold water for long periods of time adding to the problem. If it was a northeastern truck than you can imagine all that road salt spray/washout getting into the cavities and creating the rust issue.

If you can't find a rust free replacement part. I would just take the tailgate apart, block off the drain holes (some masking tape) and pour Evaporust into the lower cavity and leave it for a few days while the truck sits somewhere. Then remove the tape, the Evaporust will drain out and hopefully it should be 100% rust free. If not, then repeat until all the rust is cleared out. There no such thing as too much rust unless you have actual holes in the metal where it rusted through. Proceed with a metal primer and paint and spray some kind of cavity wax (Wurth makes a great one) inside the tailgate to never have this problem again. I have heard people here using Fluid Film as well but that's not really a permanent product and would require constant reapplication every year or two depending on your weather and driving conditions.

Thanks. Would I also need to remove the rear glass to address the bubble?Sounds like it's a combination of a leak around the glass and water coming in from the brake light. Somebody mentioned turning on the AC full blast, closing all the doors and spraying soapy water around the brake light. If it bubbles then I know the gasket around the brake light has failed. I'm game to try that but I'm not sure I'm up for re-

 

[Jfcol]

Thanks. Would I also need to remove the rear glass to address the bubble?Sounds like it's a combination of a leak around the glass and water coming in from the brake light. Somebody mentioned turning on the AC full blast, closing all the doors and spraying soapy water around the brake light. If it bubbles then I know the gasket around the brake light has failed. I'm game to try that but I'm not sure I'm up for re-

Thanks. I'm game to try that. Do you think it's a coincidence that I also have the bubble directly beneath the glass?Can that be sanded, primed and touched up or does the glass also need to be removed?

 

[Kabanstva]

Yes you would definitely need to remove the glass and seal to properly fix that rust bubble. Odds are it is much worse underneath. Rust must be completely removed if you want a permanent fix.

 

[abuck99]

Did you also have the rust on the lower area? I'm assuming there's a lot I can't see inside the hatch shell itself. So can I ever really mitigate that? Or if they fix the leak does it just stay as it is and not get any worse?

Yes but my rust was minor around the release handle. Just enough that I wanted to get it fixed before it grew into a problem.

You can remove the plastic trim surrounding the inside of the glass and inside hatch to get a look at damage, water staining etc. Can also remove the handle and treat it with POR 15.

 

[wandrews]

I also have rust on the upper hatch of my 2005 LC. It's not clear from this thread what the probable cause is. I can remove the rust and repaint, but I need to find the source of the leak first. Suggestions?

 

[Kabanstva]

I also have rust on the upper hatch of my 2005 LC. It's not clear from this thread what the probable cause is. I can remove the rust and repaint, but I need to find the source of the leak first. Suggestions?

View attachment 1977794

View attachment 1977795

14 years in the salt belt is my guess. It’s not because of a leak.

 

[nukegoat]

just run it

 

[wandrews]

just run it

I had a body guy look at it and he said, "It's a 2005? Don't worry about it." So, your advice is supported by a pro!

 

[aljordan]

One common thing I see in these pictures of the rear hatch is a cracked hatch release handle. Is it possible to buy a new one? I'm suffering from the same fate.

 

[Matthew Hindle]

I got the same problem, it will be mega rusty on the inside. Its ‘only’ £1400 for a new upper tailgate from Toyota so decided to go that route rather than fight a losing battle with the rust or risk a second hand replacement.
All cos of the piss poor foam tape that lets water in around top brake light. Awful design.

 

[wandrews]

I got the same problem, it will be mega rusty on the inside. Its ‘only’ £1400 for a new upper tailgate from Toyota so decided to go that route rather than fight a losing battle with the rust or risk a second hand replacement.
All cos of the piss poor foam tape that lets water in around top brake light. Awful design.

I've determined that's the issue as well.

 

[JAntosch]

One common thing I see in these pictures of the rear hatch is a cracked hatch release handle. Is it possible to buy a new one? I'm suffering from the same fate.

Had the same issue, resolved with p/n# 69215-60020 for my '04.