Is this rust a concern?

[Bunga]

Your KDSS is likely to be a nightmare. That is more than enough to turn me off. The pitting up front is in the severe category and replacing the joints is going to suck. Everything is going to have to be torched-cut off. I paid 46k for a rust free 16. I then went over it with LPS3 to stop any future rust.

Note: For folks who aren't aware of LPS3, it is not one of those tar/PAH sealants, it is a great antioxidant for or avoiding or stopping rust on untreated iron/steel or worn coated aluminum. I use it on aircraft and anything that doesn't directly abrade. Spray it on your KDSS valves if you ever want to adjust the screws.

Autotrader and Carmax can help inform your thinking, but look at TX-AZ-CA for decent rigs, you can find what you want.

 

[ArnieC]

Not to pile on - but dang, this rig has me thinking. I have been a Wisco resident all my life. For as low of miles as this vehicle has/claims to have, it must have only been driven in winter and never ever ever washed. My wife's 2016 Kia Optima has similar miles, driven in similar conditions, and similar level of washing (once every month or two if I take it somewhere) still looks close to new underneath. A little but of surface rust just getting going on the heads of the bolts.

This vehicle looks like it was stored at the bottom of the ocean. Plenty of fish in the sea....

 

[steve berman]

This vehicle looks like it was stored at the bottom of the ocean. Plenty of fish in the sea....

LOL

 

[Lester did that]

The rust in the photos is minimal and easily dealt with. I'd ask the dealer to drop the spare tire, and send you photos of that area, with a focus on both frame corners, rear axle & diff, suspension, etc.

I can't speak to the value you'd be getting with that particular car/price - there are a multitude of factors that play into that. The rust above wouldn't stop me from buying the vehicle, but if a cleaner one was available for a similar price, I'd definitely go for the cleaner one.

Also a warning about undercoatings (as recommended above): many of them will serve to trap water between the coating and the metal, and actually expedite the rusting process (even if it's not "visible" under the undercoating). Before having anything applied, do some research and know what you're getting; there are many different options, and they are not all made equal.

I so much agree. Great point to look at those areas. And of course if you can find anything in better shape for the same price that's the way most folks go. Paint type rust undercoatings that claim to seal rust can absolutely make things worse. Even if they are applied to fresh surfaces with no rust. I should have said a product like woolwax, fluid film, or bar oil/toilet ring/lanolin mix. IF it's just surface rust all those things will stop rust from its slow creep. Rot and deep pitting are different and deserve a separate thread.

Rust is iron oxidation right? Iron+oxygen<aka air>+water on an atomic level = Rust. Salt speeds it up. Chemistry is fun. So if you can take out take out oxygen and water out of the equation the formula for rust does not work. Oil based films mixed with some sort of wax keep the water and air off the iron in the steel. Heck you might even notice that some parts have more rust on em'. Those parts probably have more iron in them or where not factory treated for rust. Or a combo of both.

 

[CharlieS]

Does por-15 not work? I thought their products were kind of a go-to for older cruisers?

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Does por-15 not work? I thought their products were kind of a go-to for older cruisers?

POR-15 works beautifully.*


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* when applied correctly.**

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** almost no one applies it correctly.



The problem is the meticulous prep required. If you've got the frame off the vehicle, you can do that prep. With the vehicle on the frame, you won't be able to do everything necessary.

I would love to sandblast the entire frame, clean it properly, prep it, and por-15 the entire thing. But it's not practical or cost effective at this point.

 

[Lester did that]

Por-15 is really cool and works for small things. Like Woof said above the prep work for a vehicle is insane. If your doing restoration on any vehicle and are pulling off the body from the frame it is worth the labor to save a frame that is old and irreplaceable. Also a lot easier on older vehicles. You really need to get to every nook and cranny or it will create a false sense of security and cause more problems. A frame is square tubing. You can spray only three sides with out removing the body. So the top is the weak link. It allows the rust to creep from the top down. Thing is you never notice. The three sides you see look black, new, fantastic. Until you poke at them with a screw driver a few years later.... And the Por-15 keeps the moisture locked in under the paint... If you are buying a vintage ride and it looks swell underneath ask if you can poke around with a flat screwdriver. If the owner says no, makes something up about scratches, walk away. They know that you know.