intall kits for da R&P
- Thread starter lowtideride
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- Thread starter
- #42
I got...they had like 40 of them up there... Harbor Frieght is awesome. Just a wicked long drive.
I think the sun is about 4ft away from Florida as of right now...So im gonna wait for the sun to dip later on today...and out it comes..
thanks for all the help guys...
and mace i even got the magnetic base for it...
-Al
I think the sun is about 4ft away from Florida as of right now...So im gonna wait for the sun to dip later on today...and out it comes..
thanks for all the help guys...
and mace i even got the magnetic base for it...
-Al
- Thread starter
- #45
Ok...soo the 3rd is out. I weight about hundred lbs now. (ugh its hot)
My bud flaked on me with the FSM....So how do i measure the backlash with the dial indicator? Before i start to take it apart anymore. I want/need to measure the backlash i have now and move on...Correct. I'm gonna need a lil help on this mace may be kinda gay but im kinda retarded...
So find the back lash then unstake the pinion nut and take it off,,,correct?
My bud flaked on me with the FSM....So how do i measure the backlash with the dial indicator? Before i start to take it apart anymore. I want/need to measure the backlash i have now and move on...Correct. I'm gonna need a lil help on this mace may be kinda gay but im kinda retarded...
So find the back lash then unstake the pinion nut and take it off,,,correct?
Pull the carrier. Backlash is not important at this time.
Make a plate that goes from carrier bolt hole to carrier bolt hole with a hole in the middle of it.
Use the 6" caliper to measure the distance to the pinion face.
On the pinion face there should be some numbers. That should correlate to the depth. Subtract the depth on the pinion face from the depth of your reading on the caliper.
take new pinion, look at the pinion face and the correlating number (shoudl be close to the other number) Add the residual from the previous subtraction lesson to the number on the face of the new pinion. set the pinion to that depth with the shi8ms between the pinion gears and the housing, NOT the DS flange and the housing.
Slap the carrier back in. rotate the adjustment collars on each side till you ahve around .008 ish backlash (measured on the outside of the ring gear) and then do a pattern.
Analyse the pattern and see how close you are.
Or, you could be lazy and just give it a try with the old shims. Typically that is almost the perefct number of shims for the new pinion..
Make a plate that goes from carrier bolt hole to carrier bolt hole with a hole in the middle of it.
Use the 6" caliper to measure the distance to the pinion face.
On the pinion face there should be some numbers. That should correlate to the depth. Subtract the depth on the pinion face from the depth of your reading on the caliper.
take new pinion, look at the pinion face and the correlating number (shoudl be close to the other number) Add the residual from the previous subtraction lesson to the number on the face of the new pinion. set the pinion to that depth with the shi8ms between the pinion gears and the housing, NOT the DS flange and the housing.
Slap the carrier back in. rotate the adjustment collars on each side till you ahve around .008 ish backlash (measured on the outside of the ring gear) and then do a pattern.
Analyse the pattern and see how close you are.
Or, you could be lazy and just give it a try with the old shims. Typically that is almost the perefct number of shims for the new pinion..
here is a good resource btw...
http://www.ring-pinion.com/downloads/yukoninstman.pdf
I think Page 7 shows how the dial caliper works for checking backlash.
http://www.ring-pinion.com/downloads/yukoninstman.pdf
I think Page 7 shows how the dial caliper works for checking backlash.
- Thread starter
- #49
( meant pinon depth not backlash)
ok got that measure...and the carrier taken out but..i cant for the life of me get the friggin pinion nut off..any tricks on that one?
ok got that measure...and the carrier taken out but..i cant for the life of me get the friggin pinion nut off..any tricks on that one?
- Thread starter
- #51
ok...im a lil stuck here. I'm pretty sure i take the old pinion bearing off to take the old shims out, to use with the the new bearing and new pinion...correct?
Also the races are still in the the 3rd im almost positive postive i take them out and put the new ones in with the new bearings, it would seem like a bad idea to use new bearings with old races....correct?
thanks,
-Al
Also the races are still in the the 3rd im almost positive postive i take them out and put the new ones in with the new bearings, it would seem like a bad idea to use new bearings with old races....correct?
thanks,
-Al
- Thread starter
- #52
Also do you heat the ring gear to get in back on the carrier?
- Thread starter
- #53
Im heating up the ring gear as we speak... i looked at the install thing that mace posted up. But is there a certain place the base of the dial indicator goes? Does it sit on the pinion?
- Thread starter
- #54
ring gear issss on....cant get the old bearing off....im gonna go try to find a bearing puller...
-Al
-Al
- Thread starter
- #56
Yulp saw it....but im still confused about the flange on the that goes pinion...let me explain...
when i put the new pinion back on it fits on fine..but then i got to put the flange on it doesnt go all the way on i have to tighten the pinion nut down to get it to press on. after i got it torqued to 60 lbs the pinion was wicked hard to spin....so i thought i did not have enough shims..so i took the flange off and the pinion would not come off it seems that it was tighted onto somthin in the third...mayve the first bearing or the washer on top of it??? i dont know....anybody got any good ideas on what is going on...i really need to get this crap back in tomorrow so i can drive to work on monday...
thanks
-Al
when i put the new pinion back on it fits on fine..but then i got to put the flange on it doesnt go all the way on i have to tighten the pinion nut down to get it to press on. after i got it torqued to 60 lbs the pinion was wicked hard to spin....so i thought i did not have enough shims..so i took the flange off and the pinion would not come off it seems that it was tighted onto somthin in the third...mayve the first bearing or the washer on top of it??? i dont know....anybody got any good ideas on what is going on...i really need to get this crap back in tomorrow so i can drive to work on monday...
thanks
-Al
- Thread starter
- #57
ttt
- Thread starter
- #58
They are in...just went for a 16 mile test drive at 35 mph....i did not hear anything diff. but man are they slow 
i felt the diff after the drive and it felt like around 120-130 degrees...
2Badfjs went above and beyond i spent many minutes calling him up on how to set these things up...even bugging while he was out on the town....dude your a great person and if there is anything ya ever need let me know...haha like surf lessons or place to crash in florida...
-Al
p.s. to break in the front r&p pinion can i just leave the hubs locked?
i felt the diff after the drive and it felt like around 120-130 degrees...2Badfjs went above and beyond i spent many minutes calling him up on how to set these things up...even bugging while he was out on the town....dude your a great person and if there is anything ya ever need let me know...haha like surf lessons or place to crash in florida...
-Al
p.s. to break in the front r&p pinion can i just leave the hubs locked?
p.s. to break in the front r&p pinion can i just leave the hubs locked?
what the hect you wanna do that for?
you might end up breaking axle shafts or drive shafts................
dont even think about bro!!!!!!!
what the hect you wanna do that for?
you might end up breaking axle shafts or drive shafts................
dont even think about bro!!!!!!!
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
lowtideride said:
That's what I did. 100 miles at in- town speeds. Then 300 miles or so variable, up to 60 mph but not sustained. Then change the gear oil and forget about it!