I'm passing on it -- Rust on a Potential Purchase

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Joined
Mar 29, 2007
Threads
42
Messages
567
Location
Cary, NC
I'm passing on it, if anyone else wants to take on more rust than I do, here you are.

Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/share/1EWfZUoGX6/


Never thought I'd be the guy asking about rust, but here we are. I'm looking for a new to me 200 and have walked from quite a few. This one is pretty close by and has good service records (although a bunch of owners), Valley Plate reseal was just done as well.

I was planning to go purchase it this weekend, then I received some underbody and engine bay photos. I grew up in the south, then lived in the midwest for a few years and would generally do fly/drives to avoid rust, so I have never purchased anything that really has much if any. This has been FL and NC truck.

What's the consensus here? For the right price, do I purchase and then treat it and go on with my life, or should I keep looking?

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Looks like it may have been driven in the Ocean or Lived Close.

Seems Localized to Lower Portion - Bolts higher up do not look affected??

It Needs addressed or will become a Problem.

All my Yotas get a Annual Bath of Fluid Film. It's $45 per gallon and best Option. Encapsulation is not what you want.
 
If you won’t eventually have to deal with rust where you live anyway, hold out for a clean one. That example will have serious difficulty with suspension and other chassis work in the future.
 
If you won’t eventually have to deal with rust where you live anyway, hold out for a clean one. That example will have serious difficulty with suspension and other chassis work in the future.
Yea, I'm back in NC these days, and was leaning towards passing. This just has good maintenance otherwise, and the owner seems willing to make a deal due to my rust aversion - that's why I came here to ask the larger group for opinions before I walked.
 
I'd pass, unless it's a fantastic deal. Ih8rust. Too many broken bolts. I mean, there is a "right price", but I'll bet you can do better.
 
Why is the left front tire making contact on the inside side wall?
 
Doesn't look terrible but some of what I'd consider the more important pics/angles are of bad quality. Conveniently, the clearest ones are of a tow hook and the engine bay, lol.
 
Run from this truck.

-another NC guy

Seriously though, the sporadic rust elsewhere makes me double down on my first sentence. Check the airbox clamp and screw. Why is that rusted!?!?

Run.
 
Run from this truck.

-another NC guy

Seriously though, the sporadic rust elsewhere makes me double down on my first sentence. Check the airbox clamp and screw. Why is that rusted!?!?

Run.
Yea, that's how I felt at first when I got these yesterday. But then I second-guessed it this morning. I'm running, will continue to hold out for the right one. This was under budget but seemed promising until the additional photos. So luckily not in a rush or constrained to this lower price point.
 
I bought a $4K GX that was way worse than this.
I spent $1300 having Frame Cut & Replaced.
Have Lost 2 Brake Lines - had to Drop Fuel Tank.
Took Nearly 2 Weeks of working on it Sporadically to Resolve with New Lexus Brake Lines.
Was so Dirty Wife had to scrub my Back Clean.
Lost a Fuel Tank Strap. Was Fairly Simple to Replace with Powder coated Strap.

Exhaust has now Broke 2 Places - Fixed myself - Might be due to age as much as Rust.

After all this I can Recommend that you buy as Rust free of a Rig as you can Find.

All the Items were Noticed in my Driveway luckily, not 250 Miles from Home which I often do.

If you are not doing your own Work they Quickly become Money Pits.

$50 and 1 Hour of Fluid Film will literally save $1000s if you live in Rusty Areas.

The Frame Rails are Tubular so they need Cleaned out (Compressed Air or Powerwashed) before being Coated till the Tubes Drip.
 
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