I'm going in...

[Island Moose]

My notchy shifting has me thinking that my small oil seepage from the rear main seal has contaminated my clutch disk, or that my clutch slave cylinder is bad. Either way, I think I need to crawl under my rig.

So I've decided to drop the tranny/t-case myself with the help of a floor jack and improvised adaptor cradle, replace the clutch, re-surface the flywheel, replace the slave cylinder and master cylinder (signs of seepage from the master) and, of course, replace that pesky main seal.

I have printed out the threads concerning this job posted by others, but can anyone offer the following:

Part # and source:

Clutch kit for BJ70 (cheap!)
Slave Cylinder and Master (source?...I have the # from the .pdf document)


Tools:

What do I need to get the pilot bearing out? Any other special tools required?

Canadian source prefered but the dollar is strong not critical


Thanks.

 

[bigbrowndog]

I got my pilot bearing out using a cup head bolt that was gripped with visegrips and a hammer. I am sure screwdrivers would also do it.

 

[crushers]

go to your local tool supply place and there is a sweet ass tool for pukking the pilot bearing out, a inside 3 jaw puller, it has very small teeth but you still need to grind the teeth a wee bit to get inside the bearing. (use the new one as a guide) it is about $25 but worth every penny, even for a one time use...
cheers

 

[lshobie]

CLutch alignment tool would be handy, although I have done it without.

 

[Greg_B]

What do I need to get the pilot bearing out? Any other special tools required?Thanks.

Use a deep socket that fits into the opening as close as possible. Fill hole with grease, put the socket in the opening, tap with hammer and pop out hydraulically. Might have to add grease a few making sure all the air is out.

hth's

gb

 

[crushers]

i have tried this in the past with no luck other than grease shooting into my eye...
Greg, you must have a better knack at this than me...

 

[Greg_B]

i have tried this in the past with no luck other than grease shooting into my eye...
Greg, you must have a better knack at this than me...

Has worked every time for me so far...knock on wood.

I am waiting for the time it will not, then will head out to pick up a small puller.

I put the open end in the hole, and use an extension on the other so there is no hole for the grease to squirt out. Lowenbrau showed me this trick a number of years ago.

gb

 

[crushers]

LOL!!
he is a kid with many tricks...

 

[Island Moose]

Sorry to be a pest, but is NAPA a source for the clutch kit? What would be a good price? I suspect the dealer would be much more $$

 

[Greg_B]

Check out Dan and 4wheel. Complete kits from Japan, comes with release bearing if memory serves. Yes, OEM can get pricey. You have EPC. Price out an H55F app HZ disc and pressure plate from the dealer....it works on your 13BT.

hth's

gb

 

[wesintl]

The grease method I don't do anymore. Too messy. The bread one i've never tried. Rental pullers suck. The one that was in there better then any i've ever pulled was on my 64 last month. It was an absolute bear. What finally worked was the carrige bolt method. $1.59 and works like a champ. I'll never use anything else to pull a pilot bearing. Search the 40 section if you need more info.

a clutch alignment tool is very helpful.

 

[Island Moose]

I bought an el cheapo transmission adaptor for my floor jack for $49. It didn't actually fit, but I chopped off the mounting tube and welded on the right OD tube to fit.

I ordered my parts from NAPA, including:

Clutch Kit (with pilot bearing and installation tool) - $381
Throw-out bearing
Clutch slave cylinder
Master cylinder
Rear main seal

(all up $680)

I'm not sure if the master and slave need to be replaced, but there is some very small paint bubbling under the master flange on the firewall, and the bleeder screw on the slave stripped on me when I tried to bleed the system so why not. I want things to be perfect.

I expect to be down for 3-4 days, probably next week. I hope you really tech-minded guys will watch for questions in this thread as I get into it, I'd appreciate it. I'm going to read the shop manual several times beforehand to get the process down pat.


Moose

 

[crushers]

hold on,
did i read this right?
someone that actually reads the manual BEFORE attempting something?

what an idea!!

best of luck, see if you can borrow an input shaft from a 3B, maybe Rob has one sitting around, it makes life MUCH easier...

 

[Jimmy B]

Use a deep socket that fits into the opening as close as possible. Fill hole with grease, put the socket in the opening, tap with hammer and pop out hydraulically. Might have to add grease a few making sure all the air is out.

hth's

gb

Reading this one a little late,try using plasticine or even modeling clay,we use this at work on blind holes with bearings,either roller or needle all the time and it works well.

James...