IHD-FTE Injector pump information

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Joined
May 8, 2009
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Location
Brisbane, Australia
Hey everyone,
I have been searching around the forum for the last week or so trying to find some information about the 1HD-FTE, and especially the injector pump. I'm considering a new build, putting a 1HD-FTE into a FZJ105 with an auto transmission.

I've seen Joff's thread, which was a great help. But I'm trying to work out if the extra cost of a 1HD-FT is going to be a better option than its electronically controlled cousin.

I swear that I found a thread that discussed the way the electronic controller was a bolt on to the 1HD-FT pump. But now I can't find it again. Also since then, I have found the 1998 FSM (1HZ, 1HD-FT, 1hD-FTE) and the inspection and reconditioning section of the 1hD-FT pump goes for more than 25 pages, while the section for 1HD-FTE is 2 pages and is a series of questions about electric resistance tests, with a statement that if it is out of spec the injector pump is to be replaced.

Does anyone know if the pumps are effectively a throw away item, or if the pumps can be reconditioned?
 
@NeverClean

FTE pumps can be rebuilt. The price of a reco is only a couple of hundred off new if you shop around.

You can also fit an FT pump to an FTE. It's not a bolt on job and does require some custom work but it can be done.

The FTE pump also flows a lot of fuel in standard form. Good for 250+ rwkw if your thinking of power upgrades in the future.
 
@NeverClean

FTE pumps can be rebuilt. The price of a reco is only a couple of hundred off new if you shop around.

You can also fit an FT pump to an FTE. It's not a bolt on job and does require some custom work but it can be done.

The FTE pump also flows a lot of fuel in standard form. Good for 250+ rwkw if your thinking of power upgrades in the future.

Thanks for the reply Locked79.

With the high fuel flow, I guess it opens up opportunities for tuning and mods. Good to know.

I take it the swap from the FTE to FT pump has already been discussed somewhere on mud.

I'll keep looking, thanks.
 
Just off the top of my head

- timing cases are different. New holes have to be drilled and tapped or source FT timing cases.

- injector pump shaft is a different size. FT is smaller so either get the FTE timing gear modified or use a complete FT timing gear set.

- the FTE runs higher injection pressures so either have the FTE injectors rebuilt to suit the lower pressure of the FT pump or run FT injectors.

If you use the 100 series 1hd fte you get slightly more power out of the box but you have added complications of the immobiliser. This version has an intercooler and the injector pump has a higher ramp rate. The ecu also has a higher state of tune.

The 79 series 1hd fte is non intercooled and not quite as powerful. The piston crowns are slightly thicker to deal with this. You also don't have the immobiliser to deal with. If you plan on playing with turbos and chips, it really doesn't matter which one you start out with because the potential power output is roughly the same.
 
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Electronic rotary pumps basically have two solenoids. One controls injection timing and the other fuel quantity.

They're actually very simple beasts. The complexity is all in the programming.
 
Since you want to run an auto, go to the auctions and grab a complete written off hdj100. If you get a 03 or later you also get the 5 speed auto. They can be had for around $6000 - $7000 up here in NQ. The benefit of buying a complete vehicle is you get everything you need. Engine,tranny,complete wiring harness,fly by wire throttle, speedo cluster, immobiliser. Make sure it comes with the Key. You will need it to make it run. I'm sure there is a way around the immobiliser issue but don't know if anyone has it worked out yet. Sell any good parts off the donor and recoup some money.

Also found this about the pump swap. It sheds some light on the timing gear mods. Must be a member.
LCOOL.org :: Log in
 
Thanks, that's some great info.

After looking at the various bits and pieces I need, I agree getting the written off HDJ100 is the way to go. Having done this before with a non electronic engine, I can't imagine how irritating it would be finding missing parts for the electronic engine and control units after the fact. Brutal.

And thanks for pointing out the issue with the key, I wouldn't have thought of that until it was too late.
 
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