Yeah, just posted a shout out on the Tarsands page. Missed a very cool T-Bar offroad event labour day weekend. Check out pics, we should maybe plan to come up here, be a great road trip, and the wheeling here is "bloody-muddy-marvelous!!"
Ih8 replacing u joints
- Thread starter Diesel Cruiserman
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- Thread starter
- #22
One more tool that is a ya kinda need it to remove this lil bearing...
I've just used a nut and bolt when I've done it...
But then I'm way too poor for them fancy blingass tools of yours.
- Thread starter
- #25
Fill me in on the bolt trick?
Yep, I use to die grind it until I it was through then use a chisel to beat it out, but back when I was making a living doing this stuff, I needed a puller for 1hd-t power steering pump bearing, very small and I did not want to destroy the housing.
Snap on tools are expensive, but once you have the right tools its bling city baby...
IR is my choice of air tools, nothing wrong with snappy stuff, just found on a day to day basis it outperformed the snap on stuff in the shop... Jaybob has this small impact by Mac, jesus man you cannot hear a bomb go off when he runs that thing...
By the way Ryan are you into the bingo juice
.....wait let me check my watch......its definitely bingo juice time...
Well, as you might expect, the bolt trick is subtle and sophisticated, and relies on advanced physics....
Carve the end of a long bolt so it makes good contact on the back of the bearing ( round the head so it's radius matches bearing) and then take a second small bit of rod, and tap it in tightly beside the bolt so that it can't slip off.
Then use nut and washer on a deep socket to pull the bolt out.
It's worked 2/3 for me pretty easily, the third time it just pulled out the bearings and left the outer shell in there.
Initially, I was a bit nonplussed when that happened, but turns out, putting a drop or two of weld on the inside of the shell causes it to shrink and it popped right out.
'course, if I was tripping over stacks of hundred dollar bills and thousand dollar flashlights on the way to the garage, I'd probably pull a snap-on tool out of it's velvet lined, varnished mahogany case and use that...
And yep, I was juicing rather vigorously last night...lots of boatbuilding progress to celebrate, and then the whitecaps found a new spectacular way to s*** the bed which demanded a couple more....
Carve the end of a long bolt so it makes good contact on the back of the bearing ( round the head so it's radius matches bearing) and then take a second small bit of rod, and tap it in tightly beside the bolt so that it can't slip off.
Then use nut and washer on a deep socket to pull the bolt out.
It's worked 2/3 for me pretty easily, the third time it just pulled out the bearings and left the outer shell in there.
Initially, I was a bit nonplussed when that happened, but turns out, putting a drop or two of weld on the inside of the shell causes it to shrink and it popped right out.
'course, if I was tripping over stacks of hundred dollar bills and thousand dollar flashlights on the way to the garage, I'd probably pull a snap-on tool out of it's velvet lined, varnished mahogany case and use that...
And yep, I was juicing rather vigorously last night...lots of boatbuilding progress to celebrate, and then the whitecaps found a new spectacular way to s*** the bed which demanded a couple more....
- Thread starter
- #27
Did I mention how much I like my new ultra expensive trouble light
Took the cruiser out for a ride, still some minor vibration under load, wonder if the extra heavey lift is making for bad drive line angles?
Thinking about pulling the massive overload spring, it listed on the packageing as a fj40 and 60 series heavey pack.
Second thought was to pull longer rear shackles and swap front to rear?
Took the cruiser out for a ride, still some minor vibration under load, wonder if the extra heavey lift is making for bad drive line angles?
Thinking about pulling the massive overload spring, it listed on the packageing as a fj40 and 60 series heavey pack.
Second thought was to pull longer rear shackles and swap front to rear?
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Did I mention how much I like my new ultra expensive trouble light
Took the cruiser out for a ride, still some minor vibration under load, wonder if the extra heavey lift is making for bad drive line angles?
Thinking about pulling the massive overload spring, it listed on the packageing as a fj40 and 60 series heavey pack.
Second thought was to pull longer rear shackles and swap front to rear?
Not sure how they could be for a 40 and a 60...spring lengths are pretty different. Not to mention the difference in ass weight between the two...
So yeah, I'd take out extra leaf...
I put some dakar springs in my 70 once, pretty stiff at first. At the time I had a massive boat trailer with savage tongue weight. I dropped that onto the hitch and left it for a few days. Helped a bit.
- Thread starter
- #30
By the look of the upper drive shaft angle, maybe a double cardon is in order? Cause you need MORE universal joints to change.
Ya it does look like I do need one.
Not sure how they could be for a 40 and a 60...spring lengths are pretty different. Not to mention the difference in ass weight between the two...
So yeah, I'd take out extra leaf...
I put some dakar springs in my 70 once, pretty stiff at first. At the time I had a massive boat trailer with savage tongue weight. I dropped that onto the hitch and left it for a few days. Helped a bit.
Will pull one maybe two leafs out, the over load is hudge piece of steel.. I have to pick up tiles for my bathroom, might leave them in the back of the 42 for a few days.
- Thread starter
- #31
Rims painted, been awhile since I pulled out the hvlp gun..
- Thread starter
- #33
4degree shims and removed leaf, works much better...
Got some firewood in the back to soften up those springs..
Got some firewood in the back to soften up those springs..