Ignition issue - lock cylinder or inside steering column

[EscapeWagon62]

Have an intermittent problem but we all know intermittent never gets better over time.
Most of the time you turn the key and the rig fires up fine.
Very occasionally, I’ll turn the key and it will start to crank but cut out.
Lately, on occasion, I turn the key and nothing happens.
In all scenarios, I jiggle the lock cylinder and get it to start.
The lock cylinder itself is relatively new as I had it replaced by Matt when my key started coming out even it I didn’t press the release button.
In all scenarios I have lights, stereo etc.
Other: My battery is getting older snd I’ll have that double checked.. All cables etc are tight and clean (I have the upgraded cables going from the battery to the starter.

Is there a contact point between the lock cylinder I should be looking at and if so has anyone made this repair?

 

[gt7058a]

There is an ignition switch, relay, and old wiring. Some Seattle cruiserheads are working through this issue now and one of them shared this diagram. This is for a 60

 

[toy_tek]

62 is different

Based on your comments I would start with ST1 and Pin1 at the ignition switch.

 

[Spike Strip]

There is an Ignition Starter switch behind the Tumbler. Your symptoms do point to that switch failing, but could be other things. If the switch is original, the contacts wear out after 30K cycles. Might be prudent to replace it while some are still available.

Discontinued from Toyota distribution in USA, but apparently still in production, so you can buy from the Ancestral Homeland. Otherwise, available aftermarket. CityRacer has it.

84450-60150 1988-1990 USA FJ62

 

[pipernd]

Have an intermittent problem but we all know intermittent never gets better over time.
Most of the time you turn the key and the rig fires up fine.
Very occasionally, I’ll turn the key and it will start to crank but cut out.
Lately, on occasion, I turn the key and nothing happens.
In all scenarios, I jiggle the lock cylinder and get it to start.
The lock cylinder itself is relatively new as I had it replaced by Matt when my key started coming out even it I didn’t press the release button.
In all scenarios I have lights, stereo etc.
Other: My battery is getting older snd I’ll have that double checked.. All cables etc are tight and clean (I have the upgraded cables going from the battery to the charger.

Is there a contact point between the lock cylinder I should be looking at and if so has anyone made this repair?

Holy SH!T! I literally came here to ask about this very issue right down the key coming out (but I don’t get the “nothing happens” anymore). Background:

I had an engine swap finish last fall. Was getting an intermittent slow crank/start. When it wouldn’t start I could put a jump box on it and it would. Until it wouldn’t. Turned out to be a loose signal wire (I think) to the starter which when that was tightened up the problem resolved for awhile. A few months ago I started having the same slow crank. It’d try, then stop, then try again, then stop again, then start like nothing happened w/ a perfect idle. That said, I *think* the voltage drops while cranking was so much that it impacts my CAN bus communication (I’m guessing here). Anyway, I want to get the start back so it cranks perfectly every time.

Also. . .I had/have an intermittent 0073/0700/0100 codes that could be related to wires that had melted from the trans plug to the ecm (since repaired) that was causing the trans to go into limp mode. I thought i had this issue kicked but it happened again today. Now I’m convinced that the crank issue is involved and causing a voltage drop that’s confusing the ecm. (As you can tell by now, I’m no electrician nor mechanic).

I’m at my whits end. I’ve got an awesome truck 90% of the time but that 10% really bothers me and impacts the joy of the truck. I just want it fixed but don’t know where to start. Is it a grounding issue? Is it something w/ an after market addition (starter? Locks? Cruise control? Something else?) Is it those melted wires and I need to replace my entire harness? I’m about to replace the signal and main wire to the new starter (it’s new bc I though the starter was the issue last winter when i got a no start/no crank a few times) but I feel like I’m just chasing gremlins at this point. Anyway. . If anyone has any ideas I’m all ears. (I’ll try to attach a file to this after I post)

 

[Lead Head]

Have an intermittent problem but we all know intermittent never gets better over time.
Most of the time you turn the key and the rig fires up fine.
Very occasionally, I’ll turn the key and it will start to crank but cut out.
Lately, on occasion, I turn the key and nothing happens.
In all scenarios, I jiggle the lock cylinder and get it to start.
The lock cylinder itself is relatively new as I had it replaced by Matt when my key started coming out even it I didn’t press the release button.
In all scenarios I have lights, stereo etc.
Other: My battery is getting older snd I’ll have that double checked.. All cables etc are tight and clean (I have the upgraded cables going from the battery to the charger.

Is there a contact point between the lock cylinder I should be looking at and if so has anyone made this repair?

This sounds like the actual ignition switch behind the ignition cylinder is failing. You could try replacing it, or buying a can of Deoxit and spraying it in the switch.

Holy SH!T! I literally came here to ask about this very issue right down the key coming out (but I don’t get the “nothing happens” anymore). Background:

I had an engine swap finish last fall. Was getting an intermittent slow crank/start. When it wouldn’t start I could put a jump box on it and it would. Until it wouldn’t. Turned out to be a loose signal wire (I think) to the starter which when that was tightened up the problem resolved for awhile. A few months ago I started having the same slow crank. It’d try, then stop, then try again, then stop again, then start like nothing happened w/ a perfect idle. That said, I *think* the voltage drops while cranking was so much that it impacts my CAN bus communication (I’m guessing here). Anyway, I want to get the start back so it cranks perfectly every time.

Also. . .I had/have an intermittent 0073/0700/0100 codes that could be related to wires that had melted from the trans plug to the ecm (since repaired) that was causing the trans to go into limp mode. I thought i had this issue kicked but it happened again today. Now I’m convinced that the crank issue is involved and causing a voltage drop that’s confusing the ecm. (As you can tell by now, I’m no electrician nor mechanic).

I’m at my whits end. I’ve got an awesome truck 90% of the time but that 10% really bothers me and impacts the joy of the truck. I just want it fixed but don’t know where to start. Is it a grounding issue? Is it something w/ an after market addition (starter? Locks? Cruise control? Something else?) Is it those melted wires and I need to replace my entire harness? I’m about to replace the signal and main wire to the new starter (it’s new bc I though the starter was the issue last winter when i got a no start/no crank a few times) but I feel like I’m just chasing gremlins at this point. Anyway. . If anyone has any ideas I’m all ears. (I’ll try to attach a file to this after I post)

This sounds like a bad battery > engine/chassis/body ground. Probably a bad positive wire to the starter, too.

 

[EscapeWagon62]

There is an Ignition Starter switch behind the Tumbler. Your symptoms do point to that switch failing, but could be other things. If the switch is original, the contacts wear out after 30K cycles. Might be prudent to replace it while some are still available.

Discontinued from Toyota distribution in USA, but apparently still in production, so you can buy from the Ancestral Homeland. Otherwise, available aftermarket. CityRacer has it.

84450-60150 1988-1990 USA FJ62

Awesome info, this absolutely sounds like the issue.
Ordered one
Thank you

 

[pipernd]

This sounds like the actual ignition switch behind the ignition cylinder is failing. You could try replacing it, or buying a can of Deoxit and spraying it in the switch.

This sounds like a bad battery > engine/chassis/body ground. Probably a bad positive wire to the starter, too.

Thanks. Battery is new, grounds were checked but I’ll go there again too. I’m hoping at this point it’s the + wire to the starter bc that’s the one thing I haven’t messed with.