yeah or egr opening...you can tee for the vacuum at the brake booster line, or of of any of the lines from the gas filter on the front horn of the intake..it could just be time for a carb rebuild- they're not too bad, just details and time...
Idle control valve/solenoid and the stutters
- Thread starter vonschnitz
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Yeah I agree with @LAMBCRUSHER that it is probably time for a carb rebuild. If nothing else to ensure that everything is clean and working properly. Stumble from 2-3k seems pretty in line with the EGR not working properly.
What did you leave your timing set at? If you are right at 7*BTDC (the line) then maybe try advancing it a few degrees and see how she runs. This may take some other collaborative tuning of the fuel mix and idle screws.
What did you leave your timing set at? If you are right at 7*BTDC (the line) then maybe try advancing it a few degrees and see how she runs. This may take some other collaborative tuning of the fuel mix and idle screws.
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i was trying to avoid the carb rebuild. . .but I think i am ready.
I was trying to eliminate all other factors first and try to get her dialed in.
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I left the timing at 7 degrees (the bearing at the line).
I downloaded and printed the FSM last nite and I am gonna do some studying.
I also have some NGK plug wires on the way. . .
Thanks for the help!
IT'S ONE OF THOSE CHICKEN OR EGGS DEALS HERE...oops, you'll never get it dialed in if it's in need of repair, and everything you do to dial it in will need to be redialed once you get the carb done...
Cool! And the carb rebuild really isn't that bad. Get yourself a gallon can of the Berryman's Carb Dip and clean all the parts as you go along. Take LOTS of pictures from every angle when you do this starting with the carb still all attached and on the engine. Get the kit from Kurt and get your secondary diaphragm from NAPA (has to be ordered but more like $12 vs. $40 from Kurt for the OEM quality one).
Look in the videos thread for Pinhead's teardown and rebuild of the carb and you will be good to go. Really when I went into it I thought it was going to be somewhat difficult but really it was just being aware of all the small parts and putting them back together in the appropriate fashion.
Tools you will need.....
- set of good quality LONG needle nose pliers
- flathead screwdrivers of various sizes to remove jets and whatnot (jets are brass so make sure the screwdriver fits the slot properly to avoid any damage).
- nice big WHITE towel so that you can lay everything out and see all the parts
Other than those thing, everything was pretty standard sizes and normal tools that you should have laying around.
Look in the videos thread for Pinhead's teardown and rebuild of the carb and you will be good to go. Really when I went into it I thought it was going to be somewhat difficult but really it was just being aware of all the small parts and putting them back together in the appropriate fashion.
Tools you will need.....
- set of good quality LONG needle nose pliers
- flathead screwdrivers of various sizes to remove jets and whatnot (jets are brass so make sure the screwdriver fits the slot properly to avoid any damage).
- nice big WHITE towel so that you can lay everything out and see all the parts
Other than those thing, everything was pretty standard sizes and normal tools that you should have laying around.
I have having similar troubles (though I am desmogged and have a Trollhole carb). Following this thread!
Did you have to remove the carb from the intake to get at the solenoid? I guess it's not that hard but I'm a newb and try to do as little as possible... So as not to make problems worse
Did you have to remove the carb from the intake to get at the solenoid? I guess it's not that hard but I'm a newb and try to do as little as possible... So as not to make problems worse
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The solenoid is at the back of the stock carb on the passenger side. Two wires go to it, open end 12mm wrench. I had to use a stool to get up high enough to see it.I have having similar troubles (though I am desmogged and have a Trollhole carb). Following this thread!
Did you have to remove the carb from the intake to get at the solenoid? I guess it's not that hard but I'm a newb and try to do as little as possible... So as not to make problems worse
Yeah it can be a bit of a bitch to get to. Depending on how old and crusty your wires are you may have to take off the Accelerator pump arm to get to it adequately. @Timmerz It can be done with the carb still on the truck but much easier to get to with it off.. However, if you have a new Trollhole then I would highly doubt it is not working.
As far as my carb, Marshall said to pull the solenoid and spray cleaner in there.
forgot to suggest the good old fashioned OAkie rebuild...cold engine high idle, choke out the air horn till it dies, repat three times and replace the air cleaner lid...sometimes it pulls the schmutz thru, sometimes not, care to try your luck? Use a welding glove or piece of cardboard to avoid risk of backfire burnt hand
just did this for the 1st time last week. I had done a partial de-smog, new hoses, etc, things were running GREAT, but then I had sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner in the carb(duh) a few weeks back, right after I did that I had an issue with cold starts. Normally when I would start it in the morning I could push the choke in within 30 seconds and it would idle fine, but after the carb clean it would start puffing black smoke(rich) out the exhaust and run rough(and want to die), had to leave the choke on for about 5 mins before it would idle on its own. however everything else was working fine. (and the carb has been rebuilt 15K ago)
so this week, I went and did just as Lamb said, guess what......its now back to perfect
I was pretty sure I had dislodged some crud when I spayed down the carb........and the Okie rebuild sucked it back out.
so this week, I went and did just as Lamb said, guess what......its now back to perfect
I was pretty sure I had dislodged some crud when I spayed down the carb........and the Okie rebuild sucked it back out.
got me some carb cleaner and a fire extinguisher. Don't have a welding glove though. How does one sub with a piece of cardboard? Im a musician and value my hands
And am I just spraying into the big hole on the carb top? (I.e. Not into the brass tubes)
And am I just spraying into the big hole on the carb top? (I.e. Not into the brass tubes)
Dig my ghetto rig
Free box or $14 for set of Harbor a Freight welding gloves.
So did it work?
So did it work?
Carb didn't backfire (I didn't know a carb could backfire to be honest)... so can't say how it would have held up. I have no problem spending $14 but the two hours to get there and back with a car that won't idle isn't so appealing. Nor is killing the only time I had to work on the truck this weekend. It worked out fine
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funny story. . .I put the NGK wires on. She runs great! I noticed that the coolant line (mounted under the air cleaner) just above the dizzy was leaking a bit and it (just so) happened to be dripping down on the coil wire going into the distributer cap. I fixed that at the same time, I put the wires on. Hard to say it was the problem, and I haven't done an extensive drive test, but I am happy.
Doesn't mean I am not going to re-build the carb, but thought I should mention.
I still don't understand the "whoosh" coming from the gas cap. . .can someone explain?
Doesn't mean I am not going to re-build the carb, but thought I should mention.
I still don't understand the "whoosh" coming from the gas cap. . .can someone explain?
Backpressure in the tank. My understanding is that tank will build pressure since your system is a fuel return type system. Since the temp of the fuel being returned is different than that in the tank it can cause a "boiling" effect. To combat this, Toyota installed the charcoal canister to take those vapors (the whoosh you hear) and run them through a basic element system to help expel some pressure but still keep the system healthy. When the charcoal canister is clogged or a line is clogged it doesn't allow this to happen, thus you get varying degrees of whoosh. If it is REALLY bad you have boiling gas problems where the gas will actually start to boil out of the tank when the cap is opened. Oh and the cap has a small spring loaded vent, much like the radiator cap, that helps with the pressure release. Just think of the cap and charcoal canister as pressure relief valves.
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Thank you for that! I think I might replace the CC with the autozone one.