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- #21
Amazing! Thank you for the help and insight! I can't wait to wrench when I get a few moments! I will keep you updated
Idle control valve/solenoid and the stutters
- Thread starter vonschnitz
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idle fuel is not required to keep running at speed...if you have trouble with your foot in it, you need to look at something other than the ICS...unmetered air, lack of fuel or spark. the ICS is only required to be open to keep idling at no throttle...
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- #23
I'm sorry for the confusion...when I feel the stutter I throw my foot on the clutch to see if she will idle. At speed it seems fine, but kinda gutless. When I come to an intersection, I have to do a little heel-toe to keep her running. She seems really stubborn on the cold start as well...lotta foot pumps to get started.
okay, that could still be ICV. just trying to point out it could be an egg in a different basket. it is easy to get stuck on one line of questioning sometimes, when there should be an array...
The only thing that could cause that symptom is a bad/dying connection to the ICS.
Here... Solenoid, Idle .... at $15/ea it is worth the investment to see if the ICS is bad/dying. However the green plug is like pictured which is not the same as the stock plug, so you will need to take yours apart.
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- #27
Got my new idle control solenoid from CCOD and installed it...I put a jumper on the ground to the top of the carb. I figured an extra ground couldn't be all that bad. It is idling perfectly right now, but have not taken a test drive yet.
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- #28
More pix
Sweet!!! If it is idling then it is working properly and you should run into no issues while driving.
I would recommend getting rid of the spliced in ground from the harness side and just do a straight ground to the carb body. Also get a better "weather resistant" connector for yourself if you are not planning on using the original from the truck. This will save you some heart ache should you ever get muddy water that high up into the engine compartment (and believe me I have!!). Invest in a Harbor Freight heat gun (like $12) and then some good adhesive lined shrink tubing from HF as well and you are set to go.
Oh and side note... that black ring/gasket on the top bowl of the carb. That actually has a small interior lip that attaches it to the air cleaner. It should be on the air cleaner pseudo-permanently not sitting on the carb hat like that. Just an FYI. (oh and still available from Mr. T too).
I would recommend getting rid of the spliced in ground from the harness side and just do a straight ground to the carb body. Also get a better "weather resistant" connector for yourself if you are not planning on using the original from the truck. This will save you some heart ache should you ever get muddy water that high up into the engine compartment (and believe me I have!!). Invest in a Harbor Freight heat gun (like $12) and then some good adhesive lined shrink tubing from HF as well and you are set to go.
Oh and side note... that black ring/gasket on the top bowl of the carb. That actually has a small interior lip that attaches it to the air cleaner. It should be on the air cleaner pseudo-permanently not sitting on the carb hat like that. Just an FYI. (oh and still available from Mr. T too).
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- #30
Thank you so much for your help! She is running well. A little bit rough at idle, and a bit hard to start, but 1000 times better!
Let it be known, that if you turn the key (or put a jumper on the solenoid) and you hear the click it could still be working intermittently. I would think the the most economical way to check for sure is to buy that $15 part.
Super impressed by this community of land cruiser enthusiasts and their generosity! Thank you all!
If she is still running a bit rough at idle that could just be the need for some tuning via the idle mix screw and timing. Do you know when the last time the valve lash was adjusted was?
I am still fighting with mine a bit but I think mine is due to other issues. May be worthwhile to invest in a vacuum gauge to help with the tuning.
I am still fighting with mine a bit but I think mine is due to other issues. May be worthwhile to invest in a vacuum gauge to help with the tuning.
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- #32
Gary at mudrak did a bunch of work prior to this to make her pass smog...including adjusting the valves and putting new plugs in. I was thinking about checking the cap and rotor, before messing with carb settings, unless you advise otherwise.
If your cruiser needs to pass smog tests, I wouldn't touch the idle mixture screw.
But if you can't resist the temptation, record exactly how far you turned the screw from where it currently is. 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 turn etc. So you can return it back to how it was if it gets all "screwed" up.
But if you can't resist the temptation, record exactly how far you turned the screw from where it currently is. 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 turn etc. So you can return it back to how it was if it gets all "screwed" up.
Agree with Fred... don't touch it especially if a professional Land Cruiser mech has it working. Definitely check the cap and rotor to make sure there is not excessive wear/burning but there really shouldnt be.
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- #35
I replaced the cap and rotor, grounded the ICV to the top of the carb, and adjusted the idle a bit. It seems to be running fine, but hard to start sometimes and sometimes it feels as if the power is lost from 2k rpm to 3k rpm. It still feels as if there is a vacuum leak, but when I spray around the carb and lines with carb Clean there is no fluctuation in the idle. I smell gas, too. Carb rebuild? Timing?
Yeah what is your timing set at. Also for the vacuum leak it could be at the manifold as well so spray along the manifold to head connection and see if you get fluctuations.
I've had VCVs go bad and leak internally- real pain to find. Also, tap on the egr valve gently- it could be stuck not closed. check PCV valve. get a vacuum gauge and a tee and tie it inline and run it into the cab so you can watch your vacuum as you cruise- it will tell you soooooo much...
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- #38
I just checked the timing and it was a bit advanced ( with both sides of the advance diaphragm plugged, but not the vacuum coming off of the top of the dizzy is that right?) . . .ie the ball bearing was in front of the line. Retarded it a bit and she is running great except for the tiny backfire/pop when I shift gears. She smells like a gas station, too.
I keep reading about the infamous whoosh when you open the gas cap, I got that problem. Charcoal canister? is there a way to clean or do maintenance to that sucker?
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- #39
I will try. . .I keep reading about the egr valve and i feel as if that is the problem, but wasn't sure how to fix it.
where do I tee into for the vacuum gauge? it definitely is an intermittent problem and knowing what the pressure is at certain times will be helpful.
thanks
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- #40
She has a stumble and power loss at 2000 - 3000 rpm as well. I drive like a gramma so i don't generally stand on the throttle, but when this happens I try to step on it and it feels like it clears out. Secondary not opening?