Identifying a Window Regulator/Motor (1 Viewer)

[roostabunny]

Hey guys, I can't seem to see straight on this one.

Can anyone help me figure out where this goes? My driver's side door has a block of 2x4 holding up the window and the rig came with the part pictured. I don't know for certain that the PPO (Previous Previous Owner - who was the last one to do any work on it) bought this part for the driver's door. Maybe it's for some other door.

So, I keep looking at it, and it seems like the motor is reversed from what the FSM shows.

Where the motor's pointing down instead of up.

Do I just have it "folded" wrong, or is this actually a mirror image intended for the pass side? I feel a bit dumb posting this, but I'm just dang confused. Thanks for any help.

 

[roostabunny]

For the curious, here's the 2x4 and lag bolt that's kept the window in place for the three months I've owned the truck.

 

[Kernal]

The orientation of your motor appears correct for the left front door. The regulator is different, don't know if the part changed from 91 to 96??

 

[roostabunny]

The orientation of your motor appears correct for the left front door. The regulator is different, don't know if the part changed from 91 to 96??

Good question - fastest I could think to do on that was to look up the part from various vendors online.

From Partsgeek the part # seems to be 1331569, and the couple of places I looked for that number listed it as being compatible across the whole range from 1991 through at least 1997.

I plugged it up to test it and it works, did a much-needed once over with de-oxit on the switch internals (and managed to to not lose any tiny spings), so I guess with this reassurance I'll forge ahead and figure out which of all these holes it needs to bolt into then grease it and install. Planning to clean and lube window tracks while I'm in there.

Thanks, man!

Hey while I'm trying to correct the PPO's hack job - any idea what he might have been trying to do here, tapping into these two wires?

 

[Kernal]

Looks like alarm system clamps, does your truck have a port installed alarm? In my experience the aftermarket regulators are not very stout, if you get a replacement you might be better off with a good used regulator from classifieds, or even new (under $100).

 

[wearsabrowncoat]

Looks just like the regulator and motor I swapped out on my drivers side. Too bad I figured out after the fact that it was the master control switch that was bad.

By the way, I do have the factory unit for sale in classifieds if your unit is not an OEM.

 

[roostabunny]

Interesting - alarm system - might have something there. I have none that I know about, but that doesn't mean the PPO was planning one before he got waylayed by all the other jobs.

The regulator I have looks to be an OEM from a '93 - at least it's labeled "'93 LC" in white paint pen. Probably an ebay or junkyard purchase by the PPO, same as the pass side rear mud flap which has the same paint marking.

I only went to the aftermarket sites to confirm compatibility - making sure the '93 OEM part I have will fit my '91 truck.

I may need others down the road and will consider used first - this is only the first (and most important) of 3 widows that needs work.

Hey Wearsabrowncoat - not sure is your username is a SciFi reference, but if it is, you'll appreciate that I named my truck Vera. "Six men came to kill me one time. The best of 'em [drove] this."

 

[Kernal]

Look on the firewall near the steering column for a black plastic box and another black box somewhere amongst the other wires. While up under there you may see a lot of similar clamps if there is an alarm system.

 

[wearsabrowncoat]

Yes.

Vera is a good name.

 

[roostabunny]

Well, that didn't go the way I hoped.

Got the regulator installed -

But had trouble getting the window attached -

Not 100% sure how the pieces are supposed to connect, though the PPO left plenty of bolts in the door pocket.

Main problem seems to be that holes in the top bar of the reg are wider that the tabs on the window.

If I align this one...

This one won't go...

Any of you guys have a regulator handy that you can measure between the holes on the top bar? Or the leveling bar for that matter?

For the moment, the 2x4 is back in place, but my roll of butyl caulk has arrived so I'm getting ready to seal this thing up correctly with a DIY vapor barrier made from poly sheet once I'm done. Also figured out that a mystery piece is the inner gasket that's supposed to ride the inside surface of the glass. It has been ripped off the top edge of the inner door panel by the PPO who (as mentioned) didn't know the proper way to remove the inner door panel.

 

[wearsabrowncoat]

I can dig my spare out but it might be tomorrow night before I can give you some numbers.

 

[roostabunny]

I can dig my spare out but it might be tomorrow night before I can give you some numbers.

That'd be awesome thanks! I'll measure mine tomorrow as well and see if I can do the same on the window piece without removing the wood block again.

...via IH8MUD app

 

[wearsabrowncoat]

Just saw you were online still so I went and dug it out. The lower leveling bar as you called it is 7 1/16" center to center.

 

[wearsabrowncoat]

Top bar looks like 16 9/16".

 

[roostabunny]

18-3/4 top 8-1/2 bottom for mine. Not the same part, obviously. Wonder what I have.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[wearsabrowncoat]

My spare regulator/motor is listed in the classifieds. Sounds like you need one.

Send me a PM.

 

[roostabunny]

Deal made and parts en route, thanks wearsabrowncoat! Hopefully this weekend I'll have my first window-down drive! None too soon, sure is warming up down here.

...via IH8MUD app

 

[roostabunny]

My YouTube upload from my phone isn't working right, so I can't post video yet, but the window is going down and up! Woohoo! So nice to out my arm out the window and feel the breeze for the first time since I bought this rig!

Will post video when I can get it sorted, interested in feedback on roll-up speed.

Window runs were cleaned (grime sample pictured)

Then I used some Gummi Pflege Stift...

It was not particularly miraculous on the window runs but really made the door seals look and feel like new.

Last step before installing the regulator/motor (thank you Wearsabrowncoat!) was using some 3M silicone paste to lube the runs.

Cleaned some mild buildup and re-greased the regulator per the FSM and unlike the previous try, this one bolted right up to both the door and the window all perfect. Tested movement, made a quick adjustment to the leveling bar and all set!

The door already sounds better when closing - less clang more thud. And I know it'll be even better once I fab a new vapor barrier and re-install my spruced up inner door panel. Couldn't believe the panel clips are $1.43 each at the dealership - even with the Local TLCA club discount! I think I have most of them - glad I didn't throw them away.

 

[roostabunny]

Link to a video of the initial window roll-down and up here.

Interested in feedback on roll-up speed, is this fast, normal, on the slow side?

 

[roostabunny]

I may make a seperate thread for the whole step-by-step, but just a couple of photos on the process of buttoning up.

This is some of the biological material I found in my door. I have fun wondering how all the mud and leaves got in such strange places. Seems like it might have been open and outdoors for an extended period.

Anyway, scraped and cleaned out, drain holes clear, and a dose of WD40 down on that bottom internal seam for now.

Here's the new butyl rope with some rough-cut 3.5mil plastic sheeting as my DIY vapor barrier. I can see why the oem ones have a recess "welded" in for the door handle, but I managed to distribute the wrinkles fairly evenly.

Trimmed up...