Before I am condemed, please give me a chance, I have searched this site and found many fixes for many of my cruisers, however this question is a little different and many symptoms may or may not be related, trying to isolate as best I can but maybe these problems are related. Stock 95 cruiser, second owner, 170k miles, factory lockers however rear isn't working, this is the least of my problems. All started about 6 months ago with I hate to say it but the 401code. Came to this site and followed recommended advice which I had searched, I took off the throttle body, looking for carbon buildup, none there, used air to check vacuum lines, no obstructions replaced rubber lines anyways, took apart the egr vacuum modulator, its clean, even the filter media is white. Ok not much else outside the vsv or egr itself could be bad, im assuming at this point. These will be replaced with toyota parts as this thread dies out. Unless something else is to blame. Interesting enough yeah its got some miles on it but it suddenly starts pinging, sounds like a diesle under part throttle or under load, did find one vacuum leak between the air filter and throttle body, repaired with too much duct tape hidden by electrical tape, this did not fix the problem, please keep in mind I have had this truck for years never had this problem with regular gasoline, have used two tanks with seafoam and premium gasoline, didn't help, now the deadly overheating issue is here, I have pulled boats, trailers you name it with never a problem maybe Ive been lucky but I doubt it, the needle had never moved before other than from cold to warm as normal, now with moderate temperature, may or may not overheat, my temp needle is very active when it does rise just past below halfway. My truck doesn't have electric fans in front just the clutch fan. Upon checking the clutch, was shot, great reading about fixing this Ive found, but really wanted to take the boat out the next day so bought what I thought was a hayden unit but turns out its made by torqflo. A little smaller than original. Started it up and there was the sweet noise of moving air. Took for a test drive, overheated. Not to the point of boiling water out, A few 1/4 mile coasts and its back at normal readings. Sounds like a bad new clutch to me, but im giving it the benefit of doubt, I have installed new toyota/mitsubisi belts and they are tight, no slipping going on and installed a new factory thermostat. Still overheats until the air conditioner turns off, so we know its hot, but thats another story I suppose. Any response will be appreciated, sorry so long, but my wife is driving it daily now, and I cant be in the passenger seat all the time, she's just not a gauge watcher. thanks for any advice and help, cheers to all.
I searched, but didn't find exactly what I am looking for (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter beer elephant
- Start date
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You my friend have the dreaded headgasket failure symptoms, its almost a for sure thing. anyone else agree?
This post is a bit difficult to read because of the lack of structure. I would suggest that you edit the post and put it into paragraphs. The forum software doesn't allow for indentations, so you'll have to use an extra line between paragraphs.
Some of the stuff as I skimmed it sounds like you have head gasket failure symptoms that others have noted.
Some of the stuff as I skimmed it sounds like you have head gasket failure symptoms that others have noted.
Beer Elephant,
The pinging doesn't sound good. Timing OK?
You have cooling system issues that need to be addressed. Typically, this means bringing the cooling system back to top condition by replacing with Toyota parts.
Do the bubble test to see if you already have a failed HG. If OK, then do the following:
* Thermostat & gasket
* Flush & fill with premium coolant (block, heater cores, distilled water, the works!)
* Inspect the radiator carefully. Any signs of sludge and you should consider replacing or, at a minimum, getting it professionally cleaned
* Belts should be OK, but check tension
* Radiator cap
* Possibly the water pump (Not a common failure item though)
* Get a new Toyota fan clutch. LT & TRU have identified an improvement with the clutch timing and fluid viscosity.
..... Consider doing one or both before installing the new clutch.
* Clean your radiator fins and condensor fins with Simple Green.
This should get your cooling system 100%.
-B-
The pinging doesn't sound good. Timing OK?
You have cooling system issues that need to be addressed. Typically, this means bringing the cooling system back to top condition by replacing with Toyota parts.
Do the bubble test to see if you already have a failed HG. If OK, then do the following:
* Thermostat & gasket
* Flush & fill with premium coolant (block, heater cores, distilled water, the works!)
* Inspect the radiator carefully. Any signs of sludge and you should consider replacing or, at a minimum, getting it professionally cleaned
* Belts should be OK, but check tension
* Radiator cap
* Possibly the water pump (Not a common failure item though)
* Get a new Toyota fan clutch. LT & TRU have identified an improvement with the clutch timing and fluid viscosity.
..... Consider doing one or both before installing the new clutch.
* Clean your radiator fins and condensor fins with Simple Green.
This should get your cooling system 100%.
-B-
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For the P0401, there are dozens of threads on how to approach this problem. I am certain we have discussed this, yet again, in the past 2 weeks. Please find that recent thread and read it carefully. I cannot remember the thread title... maybe someone else can chime in.
If you want help with the rear locker engagement you should put that request in another thread so we don't get all balled up trying to solve multiple issues in your cooling system thread.
For your vacuum leak, replace the big hose between the air box and the intake. It gets small cracks and the leaks will cause many problems, including pinging.
-B-
If you want help with the rear locker engagement you should put that request in another thread so we don't get all balled up trying to solve multiple issues in your cooling system thread.
For your vacuum leak, replace the big hose between the air box and the intake. It gets small cracks and the leaks will cause many problems, including pinging.
-B-
- Thread starter
- #6
not at all worried about the locker, trying to prevent the head gasket problems that are so prevalent here.
Sorry about the structure of the explanation, will try to break it up more.
B, as for the timing its dead on at 3 degrees with the pins connected etc. At first when crossing the pins for lack of better terminology, I discovered the tps was bad, so upon replacing with a new toyota part, the timing proved to be perfect, which upset me so.
The air intake hose was a threat, and I agree that it would definitely lean out
the air/fuel, I have read of others who fixed theirs with tape, I am fairly certain there is no leak there, at least not enough to get the ping im getting.
I thought maybe the egr was possibly sticking and causing possible too high combustion temperatures, could this cause the pinging? this is a guess.
I will perform cleaning all of the radiator fins as described. A flushing couldn't hurt, havent had one performed in 2 years. Does have proper coolant in it as best as I could say from draining and refilling while changing the thermostat.
Would a bad water pump give intermitttant temps? I have some days that the vehicle doesn't overheat, and sometimes it does, can happen in stop and go driving and has happened on interstate driving. But not always even with a small deviation of outside temp. this happens only sometimes even when towing a 22 foot ski boat. The sometimes bothers me more than enough though.
Im assuming the bubble test would be to check if bubbles were forming in the resovoir at above Idle. If this is not the correct method I would appreciate that method your talking of, I know there is not enough water in the oil to be detected by eye, Ive had others trucks of diff makes show visible steam out of the exhaust during a head gasket failure, I have not noticed this on this truck.
I havent done a compression test, The vehicle doesn't miss so Im trying hard to lean away from the head gasket. Please dont let it be a head gasket, I pray to the cruiser gods on that one. thanks for the advice so far.
Sorry about the structure of the explanation, will try to break it up more.
B, as for the timing its dead on at 3 degrees with the pins connected etc. At first when crossing the pins for lack of better terminology, I discovered the tps was bad, so upon replacing with a new toyota part, the timing proved to be perfect, which upset me so.
The air intake hose was a threat, and I agree that it would definitely lean out
the air/fuel, I have read of others who fixed theirs with tape, I am fairly certain there is no leak there, at least not enough to get the ping im getting.
I thought maybe the egr was possibly sticking and causing possible too high combustion temperatures, could this cause the pinging? this is a guess.
I will perform cleaning all of the radiator fins as described. A flushing couldn't hurt, havent had one performed in 2 years. Does have proper coolant in it as best as I could say from draining and refilling while changing the thermostat.
Would a bad water pump give intermitttant temps? I have some days that the vehicle doesn't overheat, and sometimes it does, can happen in stop and go driving and has happened on interstate driving. But not always even with a small deviation of outside temp. this happens only sometimes even when towing a 22 foot ski boat. The sometimes bothers me more than enough though.
Im assuming the bubble test would be to check if bubbles were forming in the resovoir at above Idle. If this is not the correct method I would appreciate that method your talking of, I know there is not enough water in the oil to be detected by eye, Ive had others trucks of diff makes show visible steam out of the exhaust during a head gasket failure, I have not noticed this on this truck.
I havent done a compression test, The vehicle doesn't miss so Im trying hard to lean away from the head gasket. Please dont let it be a head gasket, I pray to the cruiser gods on that one. thanks for the advice so far.
NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
I had problems with keeping my rig cool earlier this year. It was definitely evident on trips when I was pulling my tent trailer, but it started getting very warm while I was only driving around town.
While removing the fan clutch, I ended up breaking off the small coolant return line nub near the top of the radiator...so I ended up replacing mine with an OEM unit that I had ordered from CDan.
With a fresh coolant flush, new thermostat, new fan clutch, and new radiator, I no longer have problems with the rig overheating.
While removing the fan clutch, I ended up breaking off the small coolant return line nub near the top of the radiator...so I ended up replacing mine with an OEM unit that I had ordered from CDan.
With a fresh coolant flush, new thermostat, new fan clutch, and new radiator, I no longer have problems with the rig overheating.
Vapor pressure in the gas tank was throwing a 401. I started doing a couple of things 3-4 years ago and it hasn't returned (wood knock).
1. On long trips it's no 401 has every thrown when burning a full tank all the way to empty. But when I'm in town nibbling away at a full tank, I loosen the cap and bleed the pressure around 1/2 to 1/4 tank then finish it off. It I don't do this, the 401 it inevitable.
2. I also figured out that when my wife was filling the LC up, she wasn't tightly closing the gas cap. This also has thrown a 401 before among other codes.
I thought that I may need a new cap, but the emmission station check said it was ok. I don't know exactly what they check for, but the cap passed.
I think the autoparts store was getting tired of loaning me their code checker to read and clear the code. Of course the battery disconnect works, but re-programming the stereo reminds me of the infamous VCR clock.
1. On long trips it's no 401 has every thrown when burning a full tank all the way to empty. But when I'm in town nibbling away at a full tank, I loosen the cap and bleed the pressure around 1/2 to 1/4 tank then finish it off. It I don't do this, the 401 it inevitable.
2. I also figured out that when my wife was filling the LC up, she wasn't tightly closing the gas cap. This also has thrown a 401 before among other codes.
I thought that I may need a new cap, but the emmission station check said it was ok. I don't know exactly what they check for, but the cap passed.
I think the autoparts store was getting tired of loaning me their code checker to read and clear the code. Of course the battery disconnect works, but re-programming the stereo reminds me of the infamous VCR clock.
Beer Elephant - You needn't apologize for making your post. No one here expects to to spend hours searching for an answer.
Feel free to post your questions if you don't find your answer in the FAQ or a search. If you do find your answer in the FAQ and you want to talk about it, feel free to post.
reffug and I as moderators will not tolerate bashing someone for asking a real tech question. If the person hasn't searched, we nicely tell them how if we know it has been beat to death. If someone doesn't find it in 15-30 minutes, they should feel free to post a question. This isn't Pirate and we will keep it open and freindly. keep it tech and keep it cordial.
Your posts or questions will be welcome at any time. Good luck with your problems.
BTW- a 94 Brass OEM radiator is almost $300 cheaper thean a 97 and they both work. I ordered the 94 to fix mine
Feel free to post your questions if you don't find your answer in the FAQ or a search. If you do find your answer in the FAQ and you want to talk about it, feel free to post.
reffug and I as moderators will not tolerate bashing someone for asking a real tech question. If the person hasn't searched, we nicely tell them how if we know it has been beat to death. If someone doesn't find it in 15-30 minutes, they should feel free to post a question. This isn't Pirate and we will keep it open and freindly. keep it tech and keep it cordial.
Your posts or questions will be welcome at any time. Good luck with your problems.
BTW- a 94 Brass OEM radiator is almost $300 cheaper thean a 97 and they both work. I ordered the 94 to fix mine
- Thread starter
- #10
Thanks for the replies, Im cleaning the radiator fins etc. today, I am grateful there is a non plastic alternative for my application if it needs it. The original looks good but I cant be sure, I will take it to a professional.
I will take the truck to a shop to be flushed out and am gonna take the parts store clutch fan off and replace with a toyota unit. I will do this in steps and try to post back with results, will take a little time.
If anyone knows the bubble test for head gasket leak I would appreciate it, Im not certain what Im looking for, if there is a leak will there be bubbles apparent in the resevoir above idle?
Still searching for the awful pinging which is also intermittant.
I will observe the gas cap tightness and see what happens with the 401 code. Parts store guy is also tired of clearing my code, while I experiment. ha,ha
I will take the truck to a shop to be flushed out and am gonna take the parts store clutch fan off and replace with a toyota unit. I will do this in steps and try to post back with results, will take a little time.
If anyone knows the bubble test for head gasket leak I would appreciate it, Im not certain what Im looking for, if there is a leak will there be bubbles apparent in the resevoir above idle?
Still searching for the awful pinging which is also intermittant.
I will observe the gas cap tightness and see what happens with the 401 code. Parts store guy is also tired of clearing my code, while I experiment. ha,ha
Have someone hold the rpm at about 3,000 while you pop the overflow cap and peek in while still holding the hose under the coolant.
No bubbles = good. Bubbles = bad.
No bubbles = good. Bubbles = bad.
beer elephant said:
A P0401 OBD-II code is unrelated to the gas cap. EGR valve, EGR modulator, EGR Temp sensor, VSV for EGR, interconnecting wiring, or interconnecting vacuum hoses.
-B-
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- Thread starter
- #13
thanks for the bubble method explanation, will try it tommorrow, I will sleep tonight with crossed fingers.
As to the 401 code, if its not contributing to my pinging and overheating, I suppose I have ruled out most all but the vsv and egr itself, just replace parts and move on. If thats all thats wrong with a truck thats been this dependable its well worth it and I would consider the parts long term routine maintenance. thanks and cheers to all.
As to the 401 code, if its not contributing to my pinging and overheating, I suppose I have ruled out most all but the vsv and egr itself, just replace parts and move on. If thats all thats wrong with a truck thats been this dependable its well worth it and I would consider the parts long term routine maintenance. thanks and cheers to all.
beer elephant said:
Be sure to run a wire into the fitting on the manifold where the vac line goes in (from the ERG valve iteself). Mine was plugged and it wasn't until I cleaned it out that I have been able to keep the CEL off.
I am assuming the 95 has the same ports as my 97...
- Thread starter
- #15
the bubble test indicates no head gasket issues. whooyeeehaaa,
Guess its just time to replace some major cooling parts.
go over once more a thouough cleaning of the egr passages, if nothing is found purchase some emissions parts.
As far as the pinging goes, The timing is good, no leaks found in the filter to throttle connection using the starting fluid technique, might try to apply air pressure to prove myself wrong.
If the egr isn't causing pinging either, then it must be excessive carbon buildup on the pistons, unless theirs some sensor Im overlooking. Thanks again all..
Guess its just time to replace some major cooling parts.
go over once more a thouough cleaning of the egr passages, if nothing is found purchase some emissions parts.
As far as the pinging goes, The timing is good, no leaks found in the filter to throttle connection using the starting fluid technique, might try to apply air pressure to prove myself wrong.
If the egr isn't causing pinging either, then it must be excessive carbon buildup on the pistons, unless theirs some sensor Im overlooking. Thanks again all..
