How to replace side mirror retract actuator (at least how I did it) (2 Viewers)

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@ToyotaTrk did you figure the green plug out? I was cleaning up my shop and found this in a box:

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@ToyotaTrk did you figure the green plug out? I was cleaning up my shop and found this in a box:
Nice - thanks for the follow up. But I have 6 wires on each end... I did try and inset the stripped wires into the female sides, but it was a guess as to which wire went where. On female side I have a red wire with a blue stripe and a green wire with a red stripe. On the male side I do not see those 2 combinations.

Still trying.
 
Nice - thanks for the follow up. But I have 6 wires on each end... I did try and inset the stripped wires into the female sides, but it was a guess as to which wire went where. On female side I have a red wire with a blue stripe and a green wire with a red stripe. On the male side I do not see those 2 combinations.

Still trying.
Ahh. Wrong green plug. Sorry.
 
No biggie. It may be the right plug for 2013 though. Mines a 2018
 
Continued:

The actual actuator is the black plastic thing but the kit comes with the metal part too. The kit also comes with a new wiring harness. This is because in order to remove the actuator you have to pull the harness through the hole in the middle of it. To do that, you need to cut the original harness connector off or carefully pull the 19 pins out of it. This is the biggest PITA of the whole thing. I ended up cutting my old connector off because I destroyed several of the wires trying to pull them out of the connector until I figured out how to release the pins from the connector BEFORE pulling the wires.

Old harness connector:

View attachment 2468862

9. Before you remove the old connector, note which wire goes to what pin location. I took photos and also tagged each wire:

View attachment 2468863
I called this the “top” of the connector and labeled the left upper pin (pink wire) #1.

View attachment 2468865
“bottom” of connector

View attachment 2468867
As I said, I cut mine off the connector, but you can pull the pins out and potentially reuse the old harness. I made a “wire pin map” calling pin #1 the upper left pin location when looking at the connector with the connector locking clip (not the pin lock) up:

View attachment 2468871
Do you recall how you found all of the functions of each wire? I am looking for the exact same thing but for a 2011 LC200. Thanks.
 
Do you recall how you found all of the functions of each wire? I am looking for the exact same thing but for a 2011 LC200. Thanks.

I don’t recall where/how I got the list. I either just found it somewhere or I used the FSM wiring diagrams.
 
Incase anyone who sees this thread needs a retractor:
 
When I was at LCDC, my passenger side mirror started acting up and would rotate all the way forward when I’d start the truck. I had to have my passenger manually pull the mirror back into place and even then, it wouldn’t really snap or lock into the correct position. When I got home, one day it just…

Thank you very much for this write up. It helped a lot to fix the mirror in my ‘13 LX. I was able to just replace the folding motor and reuse everything else but the 22-pin white plug housing. The old one was destroyed in the process of de-pinning it, but there was a new one in the kit, so no big deal.

I had slightly different wire colors in different positions, but since I was reusing the old harness, I just put all the pins right back where they were.
 
note for prospective DIYers, when you put everything back, seal the place where the black wire comes inside to the door. It has a electrical tape which we have to cut for the wire to slide, remember to put another electrical tape in that area when you put everything back.
I didn't do it and observed cold air seeping in after that job.
 

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