How To: Dobinsons IMS on Luxury 460 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Apr 20, 2019
Threads
1
Messages
24
Location
Texas
This form has been a huge resource and I'm in the process of installing the Dobinsons IMS, but the process should be the same for any other lift. I had to search several different places to get all the information I've needed during the install so I figured I would help by consolidating what I've learned. Note: don't buy the luxury if you plan to lift it, all of this would have been much easier I had the base/premium model. The 460 is remarkably similar to the 470 and found a lot of good information in those forums.

Before you start - ratcheting wrenches. If you don't have them before the install buy some. You'll thank yourself later. Mine have the flex head that makes them much easier to manipulate in the tighter spaces GearWrench Metric Ratcheting Flex Head Wrench Set

Source Info:

1. Ironman Foam cell Pro Install (similar to Dobinsons and a good video detailing almost everything you need for non-Luxury model) Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro Suspension Kit Install Lexus GX460/GX470 or 5th Gen 4runner Install

These videos gave a great overview of how to remove the springs, shocks and front struts. This should give you most of what you need on a non-Luxury model. Dobinsons was effectually the same install. I won't go step by step since the videos already do that, so I'll add what helped me through the install.

Upper Control Arms:

Removal: The video made it looks simple, when it was harder than I expected doing the method in the video. I hit it and hit it, but it didn't budge. After some BP blaster, I flipped the castle nut on the upper control arms where it connects to the spindle and hit upwards. Don't thread it on all the way so you don't damage the treads. That was the only way I could get it to break it free. The orange bungee is there to help hold everything in place when it drops once that bolt is free.

Install: The upper control arms have a long bolt that feeds through it. On the driver side you have to remove the battery to provide enough room to remove/install it since they feed into the engine bay. The passenger side I had to remove the radiator cover. This was the one part of the install I wish I had a second set of hands helping out. It was very difficult to line up and feed through while holding the UCA in place. Once you get them started, they didn't just slide in to place, but this was probably due to me trying to hold it with one hand/bungie and push with the other.

IMG_20200511_080122_MP.jpg


2. GX470 Air Bag replacement (almost the same as the 460) I replaced my airbags and heres my how to

Airbags: This was incredibly helpful to understand how the air lines connected. You have to remove the air lines to let the air out of the bags to be able to remove them. Your first stop is right behind the rear driver side wheel well (for reference that is the spare tire in the picture below, the second picture shows the air line removed to see how the connector works). The air lines are a pain, and some people just cut them, but I wanted to preserve them so that I can maybe add bags back in the springs at a later time. There is a special collar like tool that pushes in to the end of the line and expands two tabs that release the air lines. I tried to make this work with some plastic I had laying around, but ultimately used two small screw drivers to push into the end of the airline and release the clips. Use this as practice because the two on top of the air bags are the same and those have less room to work with. This is much easier said that done.

The air bags have a metal clip on top that holds them in place, most people on the 470 forums where saying to use a long screw driver and push it out, but I didn't have enough clearance between the frame and body. I was however, able to just reach around feel for the clip and pull it out. Once the clip and airlines are removed, the airbags should come out every easily.

On the 460 you do not have to pull any fuses to avoid any codes. Simply unplug the bags, but leave all the other equipment in the truck and you're good to go. There is the issue of when its loaded down, the air pump may continue to run. This shouldn't be an every day thing, but I haven't seen a solution for it yet. I may consider adding bags back into the rear springs to fix the issue, but that's way down the road if I go that way.

IMG_20200510_113349.jpg

IMG_20200510_123517.jpg


Spring Coil replacement: I used a jack to support the center differential, then used the stock bottle jack under one side and jacked one end up, this allow the other side to drop down and give more clearance to set the springs. Since I had to do the spring coil conversion, I also installed the new pads on the bottom with a single bolt. Below is a picture of it installed, but due to clearance issues I removed it and installed with the spring all at once, then bolted in with the spring and lower coil pad in place. With a spring compressor I couldn't find any other way to have enough room to get the spring in if the new pad was already there.

IMG_20200510_133748.jpg


3. Club Lexus Changing front shop absorber (top assembly removal) Changing front shock absorber on GX470

The front struts are fairly straight forward, but there is a top assembly to adjust the shocks. This is annoying to remove, since there are two allen bolts on top that are difficult to get too (this and the upper control arm bolt with the crown nut, was the hardest part of the front struts). Once they are removed, you have access to a bolt that allows the top hat to remove.

4. KDSS

I tried to avoid opening the flutter valves for KDSS but the sway bars needed to be removed to give extra clearance. The only way they were going back was to release some of the pressure, like in the Ironman video. I removed the rear sway bars too, but I don't think this was necessary. Use a marker, and loosen the flutter vales two turns (under the driver side door). Then use a jack to support the hydraulic side of the sway arm on the driver side (lower left of the picture below). You'll have to remove the front skid plate and plastic cover. These are fairly straight forward, just remove the bolts then it'll swing forward and pull it out of the slot holding it in place. Once you have the arm supported, push the sway bar back into place, I used ratchet straps and hand clamps to help line up the brackets. The bottom bolt was much easier to get threaded. Use a punch or screw driver, in the aliment hole to help.

IMG_20200511_080106.jpg


5. Torque Specs from (GXOR)

FRONT:

Sway Bar: 35 ft lbs
Top of sway bar: 52 ft lbs
Lower control arm strut mount (bottom of front struts): 100 ft lbs
Lower Ball joints: 166 ft lbs (not needed for this install)
Top strut nut : 47 ft lbs (mine where pre-installed)
Upper control arm (long bolt): 85 ft lbs
Lower control arm: 100 ft lbs

REAR:
lower rear strut: 72 ft lbs
Lug nuts: 80 ft lbs
 
Last edited:
I'm curious to know what springs you went with. And if there are any lean issues when done. Watching.

I did 2.5" medium duty level kit from Treaty Oak. Since the coil conversion adds 0.5", I believe it's 2" springs in the rear. Weight wise, I have the rear seats removed and built drawers, but nothing else. Weight of the seats and drawers probably offset each other fairly well, but never weighed them.

Finally got everything installed last night and still need to get it aligned, but had to get a quick pic. Stock rims with 265/65/18 Wildpeaks, I'll probably keep it this way for a while then step up to 33" tires when it's time to replace. Before the lift I didn't have any rubbing issues except at tighter turns when the suspension was compressed (turning into a sloping driveway), but now that's all gone. For the 5 miles I drove it, the ride is a little firmer than stock, but not much. Overall feels more planted, think of driving a car vs a boat. Super happy with how it turned out. Its amazing how much of a habit/muscle memory it is to get out of your car, nearly fell the first time due to the added height.

I don't have any lean issues or codes, I do need to add a couple washers to the height sensor in the rear to bring the head lights down a little. I'll try to update the top post some time this week or next when I have more time.

IMG_20200511_201127_3.jpg
 
I did 2.5" medium duty level kit from Treaty Oak. Since the coil conversion adds 0.5", I believe it's 2" springs in the rear. Weight wise, I have the rear seats removed and built drawers, but nothing else. Weight of the seats and drawers probably offset each other fairly well, but never weighed them.

Finally got everything installed last night and still need to get it aligned, but had to get a quick pic. Stock rims with 265/65/18 Wildpeaks, I'll probably keep it this way for a while then step up to 33" tires when it's time to replace. Before the lift I didn't have any rubbing issues except at tighter turns when the suspension was compressed (turning into a sloping driveway), but now that's all gone. For the 5 miles I drove it, the ride is a little firmer than stock, but not much. Overall feels more planted, think of driving a car vs a boat. Super happy with how it turned out. Its amazing how much of a habit/muscle memory it is to get out of your car, nearly fell the first time due to the added height.

I don't have any lean issues or codes, I do need to add a couple washers to the height sensor in the rear to bring the head lights down a little. I'll try to update the top post some time this week or next when I have more time.

View attachment 2303811
Any updates on this?

I just ordered a Dobinsons 2" IMS lift from Kyle at Treaty Oak and some Dobinsons UCAs.

Debating between 275/65/18 or 265/65/18 Toyo AT3s.
 
Still no lean or any issues. I added the washers to the rear leveling brackets on the diver and passenger side that brought the headlights back down to level. Just removed one of the two bolts and ran down to the hardware store to get longer replacement bolts (stock may have been fine, but didn't know if there was enough thread not to back out over time) and added a little over 1/2" worth of washers to it and reinstalled. Took maybe 10 mins to unbolt and add the washers.
 
Still no lean or any issues. I added the washers to the rear leveling brackets on the diver and passenger side that brought the headlights back down to level. Just removed one of the two bolts and ran down to the hardware store to get longer replacement bolts (stock may have been fine, but didn't know if there was enough thread not to back out over time) and added a little over 1/2" worth of washers to it and reinstalled. Took maybe 10 mins to unbolt and add the washers.
How do you like this Dobinsons? Currently chatting with Treaty Oak about this same setup. Deciding between this and the Ironman FCP.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom