I sort of feel you are going about this wrong. Use the right bearing, set the pinion depth correctly, then set pinion pre-load, then set backlash and carrier pre-load. You really can't use a pinion shim that almost works. It's a pretty exact science.
I do applaud you for doing this on your own, because it means you understand the process, and have bought all the special tooling to do it correctly.
But it's a re-iterative process. Apart and back together maybe 6-10 times to get it right. No way to fake it.
I'm not sure what you mean when you say I'm going about it wrong. I believe the bearing that I was provided in the install kit is incorrect. So, I will be swapping it for a used bearing I have on hand to see if I can get the correct pattern. If that works hopefully I can pick up a new bearing locally tomorrow. If there is something I'm doing that's fundamentally wrong please point it out.
There are two different inner pinion bearings that have different angles. Most aftermarket kits use the one with the steeper angle shown on the right. The OEM bearings have the lower angle on the left. Both should be the same thickness and both are OK as long as you set up the pinion depth and preload properly. As others have noted, the pinion is too deep in the patterns shown. Keep removing shims.
It's just the bearing needed for that differential, is a known thing. Get a new one and use it. Then install with the original shim. Then adjust based on the pattern. Once that is correct, then it's time to do the other chores, in order. Pinion bearing preload, then backlash and carrier preload.
ZUK's gear install site is a wealth of information. Read maybe 10 installs, and you'll have a really good perspective on the process. He's a cool dude-you could call him and show him your patterns
We're all rooting for you to get it right-slight deep, centered heel to toe on the drive side. You'll get there.
So, going off what Pinhead said about the bearings I ran one more pattern with the supplied bearing. This time no shims and .008 backlash.
I've read and reread quite a few installs on Zuks site, and I think I understand the steps. Either, I'm doing something wrong or something is off. Can anyone comment on the reason for the bearing differences? It reminds of the two different styles of trunnion bearings. Both fit, but the Koyo has the correct taper. So, it makes me wonder is the new bearing with its differences causing my issues.
It looks better to me. It is no longer hard on the heel of the drive side. I just wonder what it would look like .005 more shallow. Seems strange that you ran out of shim, but it makes sense if the bearing really is .25 mm thicker. That seems really strange to me. It is not like bearings come +/- .25 mm.
Nothing really wrong with the supplied bearings. Your pattern in the above pics is probably going to be the best it will be so good job in finding the sweet spot. All gears are not created equal. What are the markings on the ring gear?
I had a New Nitro 410 9.5" set that did something like that. The gear markings are not Nitro are they?
Ok....these gears came in my Nitro box(2 months ago) ....410 ratio for a 9.5" rear 1994 Landcruiser. I ended up using .039" to get the best pattern you see below. Normal shim value for a stock 1994 3rd is .050....so this one took .011" less than normal. So, if I had tried to set this one up in an earlier model 1976 3rd I would have used .011" less than the norm....which means the final shim value would probably have been .001"
basically no shim.
Nothing really wrong with the supplied bearings. Your pattern in the above pics is probably going to be the best it will be so good job in finding the sweet spot. All gears are not created equal. What are the markings on the ring gear?
I had a New Nitro 410 9.5" set that did something like that. The gear markings are not Nitro are they?
No there are no markings of any manufacturer on there. There is this serial number. The pinion has a matching one.
The lack of markings did sit funny with me when I opened the package as the new ring and pinion was wrapped in card board and not the pretty box with the molded styrofoam I've seen before. I have a set of new Nitro 4.88s I was going to use on the 40 at one time and they are definitely different than this 4.10.
No there are no markings of any manufacturer on there. There is this serial number. The pinion has a matching one. View attachment 1438978
The lack of markings did sit funny with me when I opened the package as the new ring and pinion was wrapped in card board and not the pretty box with the molded styrofoam I've seen before. I have a set of new Nitro 4.88s I was going to use on the 40 at one time and they are definitely different than this 4.10.
