HOT 2H tune up

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o8ko8k

o8ko8k

10 Year
Joined
Apr 21, 2013
Threads
21
Messages
202
Location
Arizona
Ok so i have a 84 HJ60 with the 2h with about 270000km on the odometer. I have owned it since it had 267000Km on it. I noticed it was running kinda hot (stock needle right under "H"). BTW i live in arizona and this is the month of record temps 116F is not unusual. its been about 108F our or so pretty steady and l like to drive with my AC on... =D

Here is a list of things ive done to "help"

1. Installed a glowshift pyro. drill & tap right into the manifold junction where all the cyl pipes come together.

2. Did some basic inspection and maintenance type stuff: De-sludge the engine, fresh oil, fresh fuel filter, fresh air filter, fresh oil filter. Oil pressure hangs at about 2/3s cold 1/3s hot, wanders to 1/2 when rev'ing up.

3. I performed a Radiator flush in which I followed a "similar" procedure to some guy on mud here who has the most detailed engine flush thread ive ever read in my life (thanks to that guy by the way)

Ok here are some things ive noticed:

1. With out flooring it, but accelerating, the pyro shows EGT exceeding 1400F super easy.

2. Driving in 5th highway speeds stock temp needle climbs towards max and likes to hang out. EGTs hung about 1000 or more.

3. Driving AC off and heater full blast isnt enough to bring it back down.

4. Normal temps seem to be closer to the low side of middle for the needle on the stock temp gauge.

5. 3-n-1 Glow shift has a digital temp gauge that corelates with the stock one. 160F in normal needle range and 190-195F when aproaching max.

in time line speak now i:

6. I adjust the fuel screw "total injection volume" by giving her a 1/2 - 3/4 rotation clockwise "there.. that should do it!"

7. this is when i flush the radiator

8. I regear the poor bastard from 3.70 to 4.56

and now....

9. EGTs now rocket to 1200 but dont really wonder past unless im pulling a hill with my 1000lb trailer. (which is sadly still a 35MPH affair)

10. Cruising EGTs Highway drop about 200F relative 1000F to 800F.

11. Engine doesnt really hit the hot zone temps stay below 190F. unless trailer up a hill thing happens.

So... here are my questions... sorry for the long lead-up, details are good no?

Q1: Service manual FU-78 Injection Pump adjustment talks of measuring total injection volume, provides a chart, and then leaves my un-educated self haning (how do i do this procedure?) all i could make of the chart was the RPMs and i dont have an HAC, i was lost after that.

Q2: Can i just keep adjusting my fuel screw clockwize till i hit my "happy number"? If so what is the happy number (EGTs)? Can i just back off till i "feel" the power loss and then back it in a little (like i do for my carburated gaser?)

Q3: I have the manual, but im too dumb to know how to use it in all cases. so, is there a detailed "tune up" thread as good as that awesome dude did on radiator flush?

Im looking to add a home brew turbo soon but need to make sure my engine is healthy as can be first ( I dont want this to wander into a thread about turbos, there are plenty on that and i can say ive probably read a good deal of them already) but i've added this detail for more context.

and if i havent said it enough
Thanks!!!!

Just searching around i have found TONES of stuff on all kinds of things about this engine and vehicle and its proven to be imposible for me to go without... Thanks for everyone's time...
 
Pretty sure it's your fan clutch, but also check the radiator cap, thermostat, and did you adjust the valves yet? The FJ60 fan clutch is not a direct replacement for the HJ60 fan clutch, the length is different and on/off temps may be different as well. It's easy enough to rebuild if you can't find a new one, plenty of threads on here about it.
 
The thermostat and Radiator cap appeared to be good, when flushing the radiator, they appeared to behave correctly.

I will inspect the fan clutch tonight and see what happens. IIRC it spins always even at idle. not sure if its supposed to. Ill search around for fan clutch stuff this afternoon.

<EDIT>Did some searching and this looks like a valid experement to test if the fan clutch is a contributor to my hot engine https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/501582-2h-overheating-0-50-fan-clutch-fix.html <EDIT/>

I havent adjusted the valves yet. Its on my list of TO-DOs somewhere near the top of the list.

I have also attempted to check the compression and so far it seemed promising. I checked the compression with a harbor frieght diesel compression gauge a few weeks back. Starting front to back; cyl 1-3 approached 475psi, then on cyl 4 the compression gauge broke (valve stem stopped seating and stayed open). So 1/2 the engine is for sure good... =D the second 1/2 remains un tested but trended towards good. I am weary of attempting this again as my 800sqft shop was inundated by raw unburnt diesel mist during the whole thing.
 
Last edited:
Yes, check the fan clutch. it makes a huge difference on the 2H if it is working correctly or not.

There are no leaks at the water pump, i suppose.

I'd just change the thermostat and rad cap for new, since it is really cheap.


Do you blow smoke? The easiest way to adjust the fuel is to turn it back till the black smoke disappears. You will need someone driving behind you to see whether it smokes under load.

I don't understand why you get unburned fuel during the compression test. Did you unhook the edic?

cheers,
jan
 
Unhook the edic? In hind sight that makes perfect sense. I don't recall seeing that step in the manual is it done by rwemovimg the rod or unplugging something?

Also.... No black smoke, all looks well from the tail pipe. High altitudes are another matter tho. 7000 ft under load and I get the puffy black stuff.
 
o8ko8k said:
Unhook the edic? In hind sight that makes perfect sense. I don't recall seeing that step in the manual is it done by rwemovimg the rod or unplugging something?

Also.... No black smoke, all looks well from the tail pipe. High altitudes are another matter tho. 7000 ft under load and I get the puffy black stuff.
Click to expand...

you can unhook the rod or the connector.
cheers,
J
 
o8ko8k said:
Unhook the edic? In hind sight that makes perfect sense. I don't recall seeing that step in the manual is it done by rwemovimg the rod or unplugging something?
Click to expand...

Yeah, they left that step out of the FSM. I did the same thing. Just swap one of the valve cores from a different glow plug adapter to the one you need and the tester will work fine.
 
2. Did some basic inspection and maintenance type stuff: De-sludge the engine, fresh oil, fresh fuel filter, fresh air filter, fresh oil filter. Oil pressure hangs at about 2/3s cold 1/3s hot, wanders to 1/2 when rev'ing up.

And just for reference, my 2H idles at about 1/3, and normal running 2/3. In your hot climate, lower pressure may be normal.


6. I adjust the fuel screw "total injection volume" by giving her a 1/2 - 3/4 rotation clockwise "there.. that should do it!"

Just curious about that, and mind you, I'm no expert, but on the pneumatic governor, clockwise=adding fuel. Why are you adding fuel, won't that make it hotter?
 
darthvincor said:
2. Did some basic inspection and maintenance type stuff: De-sludge the engine, fresh oil, fresh fuel filter, fresh air filter, fresh oil filter. Oil pressure hangs at about 2/3s cold 1/3s hot, wanders to 1/2 when rev'ing up.

And just for reference, my 2H idles at about 1/3, and normal running 2/3. In your hot climate, lower pressure may be normal.


6. I adjust the fuel screw "total injection volume" by giving her a 1/2 - 3/4 rotation clockwise "there.. that should do it!"

Just curious about that, and mind you, I'm no expert, but on the pneumatic governor, clockwise=adding fuel. Why are you adding fuel, won't that make it hotter?
Click to expand...

monkey see monkey do...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/569885-2h-fuel-ajustment-screw.html

post number two says Clockwise for less fuel, CCW for more. I followed this advice and it worked. :meh:
 
well i reviewed the manual again CO-5 "inspection of water pump components" step2. shows a picture of the fan clutch, and says "check the fluid coupling for damage and silicon oil leakage. If nescessary, replace the fluid coupling."

Gee that was NOT helpfull... Um... how do i know if this thing is bad. I see the question asked over and over again in searches. no solid answer... Mine is stiff, it turns like a old clogged up CPU fan. It has dirt cake on it as if it has leaked. Heating the bi-metal spring doesnt appear to make anything move or change. it neither locks nor spins freely. I guess its toast?

will this one work?
http://www.amazon.com/Aisin-FCT-017-Engine-Cooling-Clutch/dp/B008EEYL0Y#productDetails?tag=ihco-20


thanks again....
 
If the silicone oil is leaking the fan hub will be black and have a sticky feel from the oil. Pull the fan off and hold a heat gun near or a hair drier [closer] and you will be able to see if the bi-metal spring is moving and opening the valve. This spring can often be found to be snapped off and ineffective.
 
My 2H " normal " operative temp it's around 1/8 to 1/4 of my stock dash temp " indicator " that translated to 176 - 180°F according to my Koso gauge .. ( probe it's in the lower rad hose as opposed as the stock sender it's on the head .. )

The nature of the beast ( IDI engine ) your water temp will raise as fast or more as your EGT's .. and actually I should be having great fun to see over 1200°F on my Pyro Gauge .. and off course that would mean my water temp will follow ( and cancel ) that fun pretty quick ..
 
Tapage said:
My 2H " normal " operative temp it's around 1/8 to 1/4 of my stock dash temp " indicator " that translated to 176 - 180°F according to my Koso gauge .. ( probe it's in the lower rad hose as opposed as the stock sender it's on the head .. )

The nature of the beast ( IDI engine ) your water temp will raise as fast or more as your EGT's .. and actually I should be having great fun to see over 1200°F on my Pyro Gauge .. and off course that would mean my water temp will follow ( and cancel ) that fun pretty quick ..
Click to expand...

i noticed that too, if i sustain 1200F that seems to be the knee that pushes my radiator out of control.

Secondly, after 1 day of driving with my poor man's fan lock (Angle bracket wedged in the right place) i think i have a broken fan clutch. AC was uber cold and needle stayed right near where tappage is describing.

Thanks,
:cheers:
 
Thats good, should be pretty easy to get a new one or try to repair yours. Many are interchangeable, ie I use a 3F clutch on a 13BT, you will probably find the same fit yours if its hard to get a specific 2H clutch. Engagement temps may differ though.
 
If you take your fan clutch apart and fill with 10,000 cst silicone oil, you'll be good as new. You can buy from toyota, part # 08816-10001 or buy it from a remote controlled car/hobby car place as 10,000 wtg silicone oil. It's cheap that way and the fluid is about the same, as I understand it.

If I recall correctly, it takes about 40 millilitres.
 
I bought a napa replacement. 68 bucks. Works great. I kept the oem one and plan to do just that. I definitely appreciate the advice. I started out not even considering the clutch. My driving temps haven't exceeded 185 this past week. And it's been over 110 outside for over a week !
 
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