HJ45 with H engine. Injector pump replacement. (1 Viewer)

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Jan 7, 2021
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Location
Estonia
Hi , I am looking for info regarding different injector pumps for the H engine. The replacement I have sourced has no oil supply connection on the front, but it appears to have a oil chamber breather on the back.
it also has a different throttle and stop connections. The original had the electric motor to control fuelling and stopping the engine, this was all seized up so I was planning to remove it anyway.
Anybody out there have any ideas regarding the oil, I was thinking to close off the port on the engine block and fill the pump with motor oil, I assume this is how they were run originally as it says on a plate on the pump to change oil every 5000km.
 
The original B had exactly the setup you're proposing. A closed sump for the pump.

Can I ask why you think the pump needs to be changed?
 
The original B had exactly the setup you're proposing. A closed sump for the pump.

Can I ask why you think the pump needs to be changed?
The HJ had been stood for 12yrs, when we tried to start it we found no fuel coming to injectors. after digging further I found NO fuel filter, and water in the filter housing, Anyway after priming and to the pump and all air gone, pump was only delivering fuel to No 1 injector. upon further inspection, opening the side cover of the pump it was in pieces. The rack was seized as were some of the plungers, some had shattered. In 45yrs as a mechanic I have never seen a pump self distruct like that.
So we found one in Denmark and had it shipped, now I have to make it work.
 
The HJ had been stood for 12yrs, when we tried to start it we found no fuel coming to injectors. after digging further I found NO fuel filter, and water in the filter housing, Anyway after priming and to the pump and all air gone, pump was only delivering fuel to No 1 injector. upon further inspection, opening the side cover of the pump it was in pieces. The rack was seized as were some of the plungers, some had shattered. In 45yrs as a mechanic I have never seen a pump self distruct like that.
So we found one in Denmark and had it shipped, now I have to make it work.
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have you figured out what to do ? im going through a similar thing both h engines one 77 one 78 but different governors. now wondering if i can just swap over to the old pump with out having to time it ? as i have everything for the 77 pump to work
 
have you figured out what to do ? im going through a similar thing both h engines one 77 one 78 but different governors. now wondering if i can just swap over to the old pump with out having to time it ? as i have everything for the 77 pump to work
I have fitted the replacement pump, I blocked off the oil supply on the block with a bolt. Filled the pump to the level indicated on the dip stick but as of yet it has not been run. I am waiting for a timing cover gasket and crankshaft pulley seal. I have removed the EDIC system because it was seized and the relay was broken, so we decided to go back to mechanical.
Not sure yet how the vacuum control for the governor works.
I am not sure about the timing, there is the marking on the pump drive shaft which has to coincide with the mark on the back of the timing gear but I dont know if the mark coincides with the pump number 1 injection cycle.
I will let you know when the parts arrive and I get to close the front of the engine, then I can test it.
 
I have fitted the replacement pump, I blocked off the oil supply on the block with a bolt. Filled the pump to the level indicated on the dip stick but as of yet it has not been run. I am waiting for a timing cover gasket and crankshaft pulley seal. I have removed the EDIC system because it was seized and the relay was broken, so we decided to go back to mechanical.
Not sure yet how the vacuum control for the governor works.
I am not sure about the timing, there is the marking on the pump drive shaft which has to coincide with the mark on the back of the timing gear but I dont know if the mark coincides with the pump number 1 injection cycle.
I will let you know when the parts arrive and I get to close the front of the engine, then I can test it.
Yeah ok so you’ll need an over injection magnet instead of the edic. I have photos of what you’ll need for that set up to work on that pump if you want them
yeah ok that’s what I’m worried about swapping over pumps the timing will be different, wiring for the fuel shut and properly retro fitting the cables
 
Yeah ok so you’ll need an over injection magnet instead of the edic. I have photos of what you’ll need for that set up to work on that pump if you want them
yeah ok that’s what I’m worried about swapping over pumps the timing will be different, wiring for the fuel shut and properly retro fitting the cables
hi Duncan, I fitted the pump then found no4,5 and 6 plungers in the pump seized, causing the rack to be seized shutting off the fuel. so off it came and onto the bench. I managed to free off everything without upsetting calibration. Refitted and timed the pump, bled the fuel system and boom it started. Only problem is it wont stay running. it runs ok for a few seconds then dies out. do you have any pics of your pump setup, I am not sure of the stop position of the lever or what should be connected to the lever on the back of the diaphragm housing.
Cheers
Bob
 
hi Duncan, I fitted the pump then found no4,5 and 6 plungers in the pump seized, causing the rack to be seized shutting off the fuel. so off it came and onto the bench. I managed to free off everything without upsetting calibration. Refitted and timed the pump, bled the fuel system and boom it started. Only problem is it wont stay running. it runs ok for a few seconds then dies out. do you have any pics of your pump setup, I am not sure of the stop position of the lever or what should be connected to the lever on the back of the diaphragm housing.
Cheers
Bob
Hey bob yeah I have some pictures but I don’t pre removal of the pump and engine unfortunately. I’m going to do abit of work today on it and see what happens. Below is the old pump your style, the current one is in the engine I havnt had time yet to get it running.

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E8C30FFC-1628-4B7F-93A6-B26A5FE08862.jpeg


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Cheers, that helps. I guess the cylindrical part is the overfuel selanoid. Where did that connect.
 
hi Duncan, I had the injector pump (old type) off again to solve an oil leak, timing is real easy. no need to set tdc , just pull the pump, clean the timing gear through the hole and you will see a line marked on 1 spline of the gear, when refitting the pump align that mark with the one on the pump shaft and your done. I was impressed by how easy it was.
 
Cheers, that helps. I guess the cylindrical part is the overfuel selanoid. Where did that connect.
So the cylinder looking thing with the rod is called an over injection magnet, that connects to the engine side of the pump and the that adjustable rod connects to the venturi im fairly sure. have you had a look at mega zip ?

Cheers, that helps. I guess the cylindrical part is the overfuel selanoid. Where did that connect.
 
So the cylinder looking thing with the rod is called an over injection magnet, that connects to the engine side of the pump and the that adjustable rod connects to the venturi im fairly sure. have you had a look at mega zip ?
got my engine turning over no fire though, blew some smoke but thats it. just wondering if i have my glow wired up correctly aswell so are you able to post a photo of your wiring to the starter ?
 
got my engine turning over no fire though, blew some smoke but thats it. just wondering if i have my glow wired up correctly aswell so are you able to post a photo of your wiring to the starter ?
I had a problem initially, when I turned the key to activate the glow plugs I got nothing,, but when I turned to start I got power to the glow plugs. After cleaning the switch contacts it started to work.
Starter wiring is covered in plastic protection so I cant get a useful photo.
 
I managed to get this old girl running now. I did not need the linkage or selanoid, I swapped the diaphragm cover from the damaged pump, secured the stop lever in run position and its working fine
 
Yeah nice one mate ! What did you do to keep the stop lever in the run position. A photo would be great.
 
Is the H injector pump 'run' position for the lever all the way forward or in the centre?
I have a H pump with a manual stop cable in the cab that you pull to stop the engine which pulls the lever all the way back to cut fuel.
When running the lever sits in the middle position.
Wondering if the lever needs to be all the way forward when running or is this the over fuel position?
Trying to eliminate a smoke issue.
 
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