High Steer Modification Question. Need some input.

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I need to flip my tie rod UNDER my steering arms for the 4Wheel Underground 3 link kit. I have Trail Gear High Steer Arms with FJ 80 TRE's. I was thinking I was going to have to drill out the tapered holes and convert to Heim Steering. I've seen tapered inserts available but, not sure if they would work in this application. I was also told I could use a tapered reamer from the bottom of the arm and just flip my tie rod to the bottom. Is that do-able?

It would be nice to use what I have but, I don't want to compromise on safety. Looking forward to some input from the forum.

Scott in Marana (Tucson)
 
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I have. Brian said I can go Heims but, he has "seen" the bottom of the holes reamed. In the instructions it just says it's mandatory to flip it under and how you do it is up to you.

I haven't pulled my 88 apart yet. Still driving it so I can't really look and see if reaming from the bottom is a good idea or not. I was hoping maybe someone who has done this could help.

The reamer isn't cheap so maybe I'll go Heim and save the TG parts to sell with the 88.
 
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You really can't reream. You could drill and add the inserts or get new arms drilled from the bottom.

What, in the kit, is supposed to be interfering?
 
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I don't know what interferes, still waiting for the parts. I'm kind of stuck and trying to make sure I have all my ducks in a row. I just missed a sale at Ruff Stuff for Heim joint steering too. I should have ordered it.

I don't think reaming a tapered hole from the bottom would be a good idea. It was suggested that it's been done is why I asked.

I'm thinking drilling the arms for the Heim joints is my best option.
 
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cruisermatt

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reaming it from the bottom is going to leave you with a straight hole that will be too big for your TRE. So either drill oversize and use the taper-ed insert upside down or go heims. I recommend heims
 
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OK thanks for the confirmation. Heim steering it is. Looks like I'll have some parts to stay with the 88.
 
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To gnob, I just crawled under the 88 and it looks like flipping the tie rod under puts it more in line with the top of the diff so it must be for more up travel clearance for the oil pan or frame rails.

I looked at FROR flat steering arms and they look like they would possibly put my tie rod into my diff cover or interfere with my hydro assist cylinder. Plus my tie rod will be more exposed to damage at that level. I'll take the advice to go Heims. Maybe a Labor Day sale for Ruff Stuff?
 

ntsqd

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I'm going to be the contrary guy. I dislike SRE's for anything that will see pavement miles. They are much more of the maintenance liability than TRE's. If it is only a trail rig then SRE's aren't a bad option when the angularity requirement exceeds what a TRE can do and the can be installed correctly (i.e. correctly designed double shear or at least with "SCCA washers on correctly graded hardware). Otherwise TRE's are superior to SRE's, they just don't have the "race car" appeal of SRE's.

I've made my own tapered insert for an IFS pitman arm. I made it with a shoulder on the small end of the taper and machined the arm with a step in it. After welding it into the arm I welded a washer over the insert's big end before running the reamer into the hole to finish it. That gave me steps in size on both ends that captured the insert should the welds ever break loose.
 
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I'd rather keep my current tie rod and TRE's if I can. To do so it looks like I need to find the correct tapered inserts, buy new steering arms with the tapers on the bottom or maybe pay a machine shop to rework them. Low Range Off Road has the correct reamer for $80. The inserts I have been seeing are for Chevy 1 ton TRE's which won't work with my tie rod.

I was considering Ruff Stuff 7/8" Heim steering kit if I don't find a way to keep my current setup.

I'm weighing my options and really appreciate the feedback. It's "mainly" a trail rig but I do drive it to local trails. I trailer it on the more distant trips. Years ago I had access to the machine shop where I worked. I don't have those perks anymore. I do have an old lathe in my garage. No mill.
 
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I think I may have found the answer. Marlin Crawler sells a tapered pitman arm insert that should do the job. Only $10.99 each so less expensive and labor intensive than me buying an $80 reamer and turning bushings on my lathe.
 

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