High mileage refresh and head re-build: advice needed!

[Spike Strip]

Head has to come off no matter what, so first thing for the machine shop to do is magnaflux. If no cracks, you're good to go.

If your machine shop is capable of it, stainless steel chevy valves / springs are an option (search), but if you don't want to get into that, last I checked, made-in-Japan OEM aftermarket valves were available. The common ones are ITM and they are Chinese, I believe.

 

[HemiAlex]

I distrust everything that is manufactured in China. I'll spring for a Ferera or OEM valve. I have a feeling TRW and Sealed power are all offshore now...


Sent from my iPhone

 

[Kleatus]

Motor has to come apart so what else could it damage? Regardless, I see your point, and the test would work just as well with a couple tablespoons. That cylinder has almost no compression anyway!

Agree that that cylinder is already in trouble, but you did say "compression numbers" which would indicate testing multiple cylinders in this fashion..

Even in a "bad cylinder" you could have a crack in the head or split valve that was bad enough to give you low a compression number, but still "good" enough as to provide enough restriction to damage hard parts if the cylinder has a couple ounces of oil in it.
Oil has an exponentially higher viscosity than air, in addition to being non compressible..

The above scenario could probably only occur under the perfect storm of conditions, but why risk it?

Let's agree that a squirt or two out of the old fashioned oil can should be enough.

 

[Spike Strip]

That would make me cry if the Sealed Power were offshore.... SP and TRW were always trusted brands.

Ferrea racing components would be way overkill, and a waste of $ compared to quality SS chebby valves.

I also see Melling are available. USA made. But I'd let the machine shop source the stuff.

Northern Auto Parts: Electronic Catalog

 

[HemiAlex]

That would make me cry if the Sealed Power were offshore.... SP and TRW were always trusted brands.

Ferrea racing components would be way overkill, and a waste of $ compared to quality SS chebby valves.

I also see Melling are available. USA made. But I'd let the machine shop source the stuff.

Northern Auto Parts: Electronic Catalog

Nothing surprises me any more. At $30 a valve INT and $20 a valve EXH, I don't mind going OEM but I will explore all options.

 

[Kleatus]

My intake valves were visually/dimensionally fine so they were reused. The exhaust valves on the other hand were obviously in need of replacement, both on my ~400k mile head and the unknown mileage replacement head, although worse on my original head. I used Clevite valves - paid about $70 for the set, they were US made, but by the looks of the boxes they were NOS.

 

[HemiAlex]

That's awesome news. I actually have found an NOS set of Sealed power that look to be over 20 years old for sale at $90...maybe that's the way to go!

 

[Kleatus]

Here's what one of my exhaust valves looked like next to a new one...


And one of the intake valves (not the best picture) They all cleaned up fine and were reground.

 

[Zack1978]

When my head was rebuilt two years ago I wanted the Chevy valves, but the machine shop looked at me like I had five heads when I asked about it! They insisted that it must be OEM. They are touted as one of the best machine shops in the area. I gues they did a good job, since it is still going strong two years later.