Help With Serpentine Belt Replacement!!

[amagnono]

Hey Guys,

I need to replace the belt, tensioner, and idler pulley on the wife's 2011 Cruiser and I am totally stumped. I have removed the bottom skids, including the central bracket and I am able to get a wrench/breaker bar on the tensioner and get it to move - but I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get a pin/drill bit into the retaining hole. The flipping sway bar gives me almost no room for the breaker bar and one hand - much less a second hand to somehow get up in there and insert a pin. I've tried from the top as well and there is not even enough room to get the breaker bar in there. I've event thought about pulling the fan and radiator shroud to give me more room from the top.

There is so little room that I am afraid to let the tensioner completely expand as I don't think I have enough room to rotate the breaker bar enough to get it fully compressed again.

It can't be this hard to just replace the dang belt!! What the heck am I missing??

Thanks!

Dennis

 

[bloc]

I can’t take a picture of what I do until this afternoon, but do you have a telescopic magnetic bolt retriever?

If so, you can stick the pin to the end of it at a 90 degree angle from the tool, over to one end of the pin. It’ll look like an L. The extra reach and pin sticking out sideways makes it much easier to insert into its spot on the tensioner while holding back on the breaker bar with your other hand.

 

[doru]

I always do this from below. I'm actually doing this now working on my compressor.
Just to make sure, have you removed the front skid plate and the central support? That will give you enough swing room for the wrench.
The pin has to be 5mm or less to fit. I usually use a long thin screwdriver bit.
I first pull the wrench and look how far do I have to pull it to expose the hole.
If the bar gives you no space you need to reposition the socket on the bar and/or the socket on the tensioner. Working from below with mentioned parts removed should give you the space you need.
Alternatively have a helper put the pin in while you muscle the bar.
I assume you do see the hole, right?

 

[bloc]

One more thought.. use a 12-point socket on the breaker bar, not a 6-point. It’ll help you find a better orientation for the bar.

 

[bloc]

 

[doru]

^that's actually really fancy

 

[amagnono]

Great ideas guys! I'll track down a 12 point socket and I like the magnet idea. I have removed the left skid and the middle support and I can definitely see the slot for the pin but it is so freaking tight in there I can't imagine how to negotiate it. With the sway bar, I can barely get my hand and breaker bar in there. I will give it another shot and let y'all know. Really appreciate it!

 

[GrouchyTech]

Do the whole job from below. Long flex head ratchet, 12 point 14mm. HF has a cheap Pittsburgh ratchet that works great. Pin the tensioner with a hex key. Pull the belt, install new belt.

 

[Boston Mangler]

I’m a big giant oaf and found this considerably easier to do from the TOP, not the bottom.

Depending on mileage. Breaker bar may not be needed.

My tensioner had 213k on it when replaced and it was very easily clocked with a basic ratchet and minimal force. Everything went way easier than expected for everything I’ve read here.

Give it a try

 

[amagnono]

Ok, guys - I finally finished this job just now. After fiddling with, it I broke down and bought the secret weapon for this job (pictured). It's about 2ft long and made it possible to easily release the tensioner from the top. I had my wife hold It while I put a bit into the tensioner slot from the bottom - a 20 second operation. After that I was able to remove the belt, replace the idler pulley (easy) and the tensioner assembly (mild PITA). The 6mm tensioner assembly bolt was filled with crud and it took forever to get it clean enough to get a hex head on in. Anyway, after I got it all put back together I started it up and the squealing is now gone!

BTW - I am wondering if there are may be slightly different engine compartment variations over the years for this truck. This is a 2011 US model and there is **no** physical way I could get my hand or a wrench to the tensioner (and certainly not the tensioner retaining pin) from the top. I've attached a couple pics of what mine looks like looking down toward the tensioner.

Really appreciate all of the assistance!

 

[Boston Mangler]

BTW - I am wondering if there are may be slightly different engine compartment variations over the years for this truck. This is a 2011 US model and there is **no** physical way I could get my hand or a wrench to the tensioner (and certainly not the tensioner retaining pin) from the top. I've attached a couple pics of what mine looks like looking down toward the tensioner.

I guess I should of added a disclaimer to my post.

I had the radiator out when I did mine. Everything was wide open and easy access

 

[TeCKis300]

Ok, guys - I finally finished this job just now. After fiddling with, it I broke down and bought the secret weapon for this job (pictured). It's about 2ft long and made it possible to easily release the tensioner from the top. I had my wife hold It while I put a bit into the tensioner slot from the bottom - a 20 second operation. After that I was able to remove the belt, replace the idler pulley (easy) and the tensioner assembly (mild PITA). The 6mm tensioner assembly bolt was filled with crud and it took forever to get it clean enough to get a hex head on in. Anyway, after I got it all put back together I started it up and the squealing is now gone!

BTW - I am wondering if there are may be slightly different engine compartment variations over the years for this truck. This is a 2011 US model and there is **no** physical way I could get my hand or a wrench to the tensioner (and certainly not the tensioner retaining pin) from the top. I've attached a couple pics of what mine looks like looking down toward the tensioner.

Really appreciate all of the assistance!

View attachment 4183012

View attachment 4183013

View attachment 4183014

Glad you were able to get at it. Do yourself a favor and take the engine cover off. Super easy to just lift off - pull up from the forward edge, then pull cover forward to release rear catches.

 

[amagnono]

I’m a big giant oaf and found this considerably easier to do from the TOP, not the bottom.

Depending on mileage. Breaker bar may not be needed.

My tensioner had 213k on it when replaced and it was very easily clocked with a basic ratchet and minimal force. Everything went way easier than expected for everything I’ve read here.

Give it a try

Ah - yeah - I replaced the radiator on this a few years back and I should have replaced the tensioner and pulley when I was in there!

 

[GrouchyTech]

Do the whole job from below. Long flex head ratchet, 12 point 14mm. HF has a cheap Pittsburgh ratchet that works great. Pin the tensioner with a hex key. Pull the belt, install new belt.

Just to be a broken record—change the belt from below.

You guys doing it all from above are impressive, though.