Hey everyone, need some help or advice on how to remove this cover. whacked it a few times with the brass hammer but it appears P/O was in here as I see a red gasket type material ... trying to diagnose why this isn’t locking
Help removing rear Locker actuator Service cover
- Thread starter lp2k
- Start date
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More whacks man. And or get between it with a chisel etc. It's not held on by more than the bolts and sealant.
I can also tell you that you need a new actuator. The cover you are removing with show you nice oily parts. But judging by the actuator corrosion, the inside of that thing will be a mess.
+1
I’m guessing by the newer-looking position sensor, he/she is diagnosing a locker issue.
That & you have to pop the port to access the locking fork that rides the dog cuff to lock/unlock.
You have to undo a single bolt on that fork to remove the actuator / rod that travels laterally & re-bolt that fork after actuator installation.
So I bet OP already knows they have probable actuator issues.
—————
OP —— If my guess is true, have you tried the 9v battery trick to see if that’ll “bump” your actuator into working, abiet even just temporary?
Just a suggestion.
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks y’all, i just got back from HF and got an assorted pry bar set and going to see if I can apply some gentle leverage to pop it off. Thanks @LINUS @Grandlooser for chiming in. Will post a follow up hopefully with the actuator off and on the bench for rebuild/diagnosing
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- #7
Side note is it normal to drip oil from the sensor plug opening? I thought this part is dry no?
dripping - sure, esp if you just re-bolted the plate & drove it / slung oil.
even if not, sure - some dripping is fine.
But if you had a steady stream draining, that’s not normal no matter how uneven the surface you’re parked on is.
- Thread starter
- #9
yes my driveway is on an incline (have both front wheeso choked) I re attached the plate and snugged it down by hand to stop the leak for now while I troubleshoot
THANK YOU GUYS FOR THE REASSURANCE
GOT IT OUT BEFORE THE AFTERNOON FL RAIN!!!
- Thread starter
- #10
Yea I need a new actuator
Top one is a parts only from a mud vendor I bought years ago and was hoping to use to fix mine
Top one is a parts only from a mud vendor I bought years ago and was hoping to use to fix mine
Not sure why that didn't work lol. I think most of these things never get cycled their entire life. The one I pulled off mine had the grease in the exact spot the factory squirted it. Never moved once in 20+ years.
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- #12
my guestimate is this thing was last used 15 years ago because I’ve had it for 7 and it never worked and PO said it didn’t work for him and he owned it 8 (mostly deployed)
@LINUS do you have the link to the article for which pins I can try to jump with the 9v battery to test the motors ??
If you do not already own a copy of the FSM you should really think about getting one, because it has the information on how to test the actuator you're working on plus so much more.
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I've seem people bring them back from worse looking than that. Not exactly sure how. Lol.
The gear compartment mainly needs to just be cleaned out. It's the motor compartment that will tell the whole story. How bad is it inside the bell?
This helped me with mine a LOT. PDF in the first post.
Repairing Differential E-Lockers
The gear compartment mainly needs to just be cleaned out. It's the motor compartment that will tell the whole story. How bad is it inside the bell?
This helped me with mine a LOT. PDF in the first post.
Repairing Differential E-Lockers
Given the cost of them and the rarity, I wouldn't give up on the old one yet. I have salvaged and restored a couple that looked worse than that. The challenge is finding the various O-rings and hardware. Fortunately LandTank/Wits-End has made that part easy:
absolute-wits-end.com
Toyota E-Locker Rebuild Kit- 9.5in Diff
Toyota E-Locker Rebuild Kit- 9.5in Diff (LRK-2)
I posted the wires to cycle it to lock & unlock some 2013-‘15, but I just searched myself & couldn’t find it.
I only tried the internal search, if I get it via a google search I’ll post it.
But failing that, a EWD & FSM should get you there unless anybody else has it in their recent memory.
Actuators are available, but pricey. Even if the Aisin was the more expensive one, it's what I would buy. Fortunately (and oddly) it's not. Probably available elsewhere as well.
Well, heck - I just searched like crazy - all I know is I posted the wire colors sometime before 2012, and that they are in the EWD.
Without dragging out the EWD, I can’t find my own post
Without dragging out the EWD, I can’t find my own post
Best I could find:
forum.ih8mud.com
I know I posted the full FR/RR long ago, but it looks like it was something like a decade ago, literally.
D/L a EWD - it’ll be your best friend sometimes, for real.
What color wires to check rear elocker
forum.ih8mud.com
I know I posted the full FR/RR long ago, but it looks like it was something like a decade ago, literally.
D/L a EWD - it’ll be your best friend sometimes, for real.
- Thread starter
- #20
@LINUS and @-Spike- thanks for the help. the new rear actuator is $415. And I may have to go that route. I couldn’t get the last Phillips screw off the motor to try and disassemble and diagnose the motor Itself. I did try to test both of the actuators I have using the 9v battery to pin 2 n pin 3 (tried to tap them in both ways, pin 2 to positive and pin 3 to negative and vice versa) and no dice from either actuator I have. My attempt to sort of combine both defective actuators to make one working locker has failed. If I could have gotten some pulse or movement From the actuator, I would have cleaned and reassembled and then buy the rebuild kit from @NLXTACY
