help me decide...which 80

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firgure I paid 6500. A jdm from 91 is about 15k or more. Many over 20k.

I feel I can economically convert a US 80 with a diesel engine. Then I have LHD(no future ICBC issues) and 3rd row seats.

true but how much for a hd or hz diesel ? will it bolt to the fj80 trans?



For the IP & injector rebuilds I would check to see what the australians are getting in KM before a rebuild
 
If I wanted a cheaper JDM 80 I would look at a HZJ80 not a HDJ. I would go with the time trusted tough 1HZ engine. In fact that is the engine I want to install in the FJ80 I have.

any particular reason why? its just a non-turbo'd motor..correct? any other differences? id guess that its got less power? havent seen that many on the market that are available to us...most ive seen are 94+. maybe im just not looking in the right places? where are you guys looking?

another question: if one was already equipped with a pyro or turbo timer...would it be a good guess that the po's were somewhat knowledged and chose to install these items to prolong the life of the motor?


im trying to find the balance between a good value in a JDM thats reliable. as much as id love to get one of outbacks or crushers..i simply cant dish out that much coin...unless someone wants to lend me an extra 10 large? :D . id rather not have the super low K..since a) they cant be trusted...and b) i read somewhere that the higher (or should i say average Km) ones should have had all the bugs worked out. ill definitely be looking at doing beb's and adding egt guage & a tranny cooler..maybe a turbo timer as well.

i read somewhere here that the cost of a conversion was about 20k? or was that 12K + the half cut..cant remember.
 
So BB for DD and any other diesel dreamer, what are you thinking in costs to buy and install a 1HZ?

I'm hoping 5k in parts. All the labour is mine of course. But if I could not find a suitable donor than I have seen HZJXX trucks for 9-10 k imported in Canada for sale. So I could use one of those. Still cheaper than the JDM 80 series..... if you want to do the conversion your self. If you have to pay, might be a wash.

true but how much for a hd or hz diesel ? will it bolt to the fj80 trans?
For the IP & injector rebuilds I would check to see what the australians are getting in KM before a rebuild

1HD engines alone are selling for 10k with a trans, the 1hz is 7500 with a trans. But I have seen whole trucks for 9k. Pay the extra and you get everything you might possibly need.

I do not think you could bolt it to the FJ80 automatic. The automatic on the 1hz uses a different bellhousing and then there is the torque converter etc. The trans itself is the same model(a440) but they have different part numbers, so I think that the shift points may be different. So with all that said I would get an engine with an auto trans. why auto you say? My wifes 80 is an auto and I do not want to scab in a standard for her vehicle. In fact I will even leave it full time 4x4. Safer and she can just go.


any particular reason why? its just a non-turbo'd motor..correct? any other differences? id guess that its got less power? havent seen that many on the market that are available to us...most ive seen are 94+. maybe im just not looking in the right places? where are you guys looking?

another question: if one was already equipped with a pyro or turbo timer...would it be a good guess that the po's were somewhat knowledged and chose to install these items to prolong the life of the motor?

the 1hz is not putting out the same power as it's turbo powered sister. So maybe that is why the bebs have not had the same issues. But GandS still do the bearings on them too.

I like the 1hz due to the fact it is simpler...add the turbo later when your pocket book is more flush. The 1hz is also more supported in Canada. Ens toyota in Saskatoon supplies all the parts for these engines for the mines. All the more reason to go that route. The 1hd-t is going to need parts ordered from Japan. Nah I go with the 1hz myself. Then add a turbo when I felt like it.

If someone already added all those gizmo's in japan I would be more afraid to buy it. That means they are playing with the fuel settings and boost, or are using it to a more extreme degree than the average city mall running grocery getter. Which is the better to buy.

I would want one very close to stock myself. That way you know it was never wheeled. Those Japan wheeling vids look pretty sick. Honestly I will never buy someones wheeling rig for my expedition truck. Pass on them.

Pick a stocker and build it yourself. Better chance that way of not getting something abused.
 
For the IP & injector rebuilds I would check to see what the australians are getting in KM before a rebuild

There is not much talk in the diesel section of IP failing early, or at all for that matter. Seems like internet hearsay if you ask me.

That reason is also why a 1hz is a good choice, lots of parts in Canada for them, from ENS. And lots of rebuild shops are familar with the 1hz IP pump in Canada. Especially out east and couple places in BC.

The 1hd-t IP will not be a know quantity(if it is different, i dunno)
 
I dont know if this is known or not I was told by some JAPANESE that the connecting rod bearing issue was noted and on the recall order from TOYOTA but a lot of them dont know the word maintenance over there. I have seen some vehicles that had never had the oil changed in it whole life. some people are just lazy
 
I remember reading that Toyota shops there colour code the recall work done with small drops of paint. Funny, the maintanence records on my truck stopped abruptly at one point. I am presuming (and hoping) that is when they stop taking it to the dealership for regular care but were getting the fluids done at the neighbourhood lube shop.:eek: The oil in the Tranny and T-Case looked like it had not been changed in a long time. Funny, the difs -although not looking like they had knew oil - were clean. The filters - air fuel and oil were all aftermarket... :hhmm: so ya probably the neighbourhood lube shop.. right.
 
I've read all over in different parts of the internet that the Japanese don't maintain them to the standards we do. Hey they are much better. And the government forces inspections and that is when everything gets fixed. Oil etc, like every 2 yrs. But in between that nada. Even when they get inspected many times they paint the underneath, so that's why it is always black?

I think most of them are in great shape cause they don't have the rigors our vehicles do. As you know not many 1980's toyota's are still alive. Most of them have rotten of the road.

My JDM tailgate I got from Crushers was mint. Only fault was a couple drilled holes for licence plates. I decided when I was prying open all my seams for POR-15 to do that one too. Lo and behold it had the early stages of rust in there.

SO my theory is they are all about rust big time now that they are here. OIL them every year on every part. Even if you live in lotus land.
 
my advice?

buy a 93-97 us model 80 in the states with lockers, preferably in the mud classified section off a long time member with mods if you plan on modding, and import it to canada yourself which is a very easy process. the year does not matter. the differences between the 93/94 vs 95 vs. 96-97 are offsetting and not enough to prefer one over the other -- just find a good one.

I have owned mine for nearly 6 years and 60,000 miles. It was my daily driver in vancouver traffic until 9 months ago and has done many thousand plus mile roadtrips and is a pleasure to drive even though it is decently built (3.5" lift, 33s). i imported it from salt lake city where it had seen some hard winters. It had been mistreated when i bought it but after i serviced it properly it has never mistreated me. I would buy another one.

Do not sweat the mileage if it is under 200,000. I am at 180,000 and the engine was never stronger and does not burn a drop of oil. Your only major issue with the motor is a head gasket replacement typically before 200k if it has not happened yet. the h/g leak is due to a problem with the original gasket design that is fixed, and does not recur. the leak is usually external and there are no stories of problems with coolant getting into the block. in years of watching the 80s board here I have seen only a handful of engine failures among many owners.

a 93-97 will get 12-14 in town, 16-19 on the highway. The later ones get better mileage but not enough to matter over getting a good truck.

you can buy one for well under $10,000. the money you save over jdm buys an awful lot of gasoline and the money you will save on parts buying the from cruiserdan instead of a jdm source will offset the gas somewhat.

good luck
 
my fj80 has 186k miles on it, and runs like dream for an old engine.

My aim for an 80 series would be a little less than 200k. 150k is a good target. Lower is better. But they truly are tough buggers.

One day I will have to drive a fzj80 to compare it to the fj80. The fj80 is like my bj60, rough around the edges. I imagine the newer ones being quite a bit more refined.
 
thanks for your input semlin & BB. after all the going back and forth between the gaspot and diesels...i think ive talked myself out of a JDM. i figure a great NA spec cruiser is better than an unknown JDM. took out montana cruiser's ride yesterday. very nice specimen. now im going back and forth between 4 different FZJ's. aside from MC's, im also looking at 3 other stockers. 2 with 150ish K, one ultra clean one with 130K.

if i do go stocker, i'll just be adding the basics bumper, sliders, 2.5" lift and some bad ass tires. i'll most likely be running 2 wheel sets.

the saga continues. soon, i'll have one in my hands. :clap:

on the topic of importing: what does one do with a vehicle (thats has been transferred to my name/title) while you wait out the 3 days for the exporting paperwork to get processed? near border storage? park it? and as for insurance for those 3 days, do i go to any autoplan and get a permit? would i use my title/registration for paperwork to acquire said permit?
 
my fj80 has 186k miles on it, and runs like dream for an old engine.

My aim for an 80 series would be a little less than 200k. 150k is a good target. Lower is better. But they truly are tough buggers.

One day I will have to drive a fzj80 to compare it to the fj80. The fj80 is like my bj60, rough around the edges. I imagine the newer ones being quite a bit more refined.

At this stage, you will pay a premium to get below 150k and you do not need to. I fully believe you can expect 275-300k out of a properly maintained 1fz-fe, with one head gasket change somewhere in its life. when it does start burning oil it probably will only need a valve grind. the premium you will pay for 30 or 40k less mileage now is not worth it if you do the math.

i partly said 93+ for the lockers option. they make the 80 a superb offroad machine, but the motor upgrade is another reason. i have owned both engines in an 80. the fzj motor is still not perfect but is a big improvement on a 3FE and gives you a vehicle that can tow and carry heavy loads on the highway and in our mountains. the 3FE will do, especially empty, but fill it up with stuff and people and you will be pounding on the steering wheel on hill climbs. for the price you paid or less, sure but when I see people selling RHD fj80s with 3FEs for $10k or more I just laugh. You could get two or three lhd fj80s for that price in the us.

in a perfect world you later add a supercharger or turbo to the 1fz-fe and then you have all the power you need.
 
thanks for your input semlin & BB. after all the going back and forth between the gaspot and diesels...i think ive talked myself out of a JDM. i figure a great NA spec cruiser is better than an unknown JDM. took out montana cruiser's ride yesterday. very nice specimen. now im going back and forth between 4 different FZJ's. aside from MC's, im also looking at 3 other stockers. 2 with 150ish K, one ultra clean one with 130K.

if i do go stocker, i'll just be adding the basics bumper, sliders, 2.5" lift and some bad ass tires. i'll most likely be running 2 wheel sets.

the saga continues. soon, i'll have one in my hands. :clap:

on the topic of importing: what does one do with a vehicle (thats has been transferred to my name/title) while you wait out the 3 days for the exporting paperwork to get processed? near border storage? park it? and as for insurance for those 3 days, do i go to any autoplan and get a permit? would i use my title/registration for paperwork to acquire said permit?


if you buy nate's i am sure he will store it for you in bellingham until it clears. in fact, i will bet he would store another vehicle for you too. he is a good guy.
 
I'm sorry if I turned you off JDM's. That was not the point.

I prefer diesels in every sense. BUT the price difference between amazing USA gassers and JDM diesels is too much to ignore. Even with a GandS beautiful engine you will still be ahead of the JDM frenzy.

I really really like driving my 91 fj80. BUT is sucks more than a college girl at a frat party(sorry if that offends :) ) no not really.... Honestly if with the price difference and 10 mpg and your current driving KMs per year your ok, then fine.

Part of me idealizes diesels as I know in a post apocalypse world I can drain Semlins crank case and keep going :)
 
Part of me idealizes diesels as I know in a post apocalypse world I can drain Semlins crank case and keep going :)

Here, here... but, you'll be fighting me for that crankcase oil ;)

GG
 
I've had my HDJ for 3 years now, imported it myself. Put over 70,000 km on it and the only thing I've had to do to it are BEB, headlights and tie rod ends. I put my own 3rd row seats in it. There's no comparison to gas; the turbodiesel is superior in so many respects. Loads of fuel-efficient power (especially with an intercooler), twin batteries, 20+ mpg. I wouldn't go with an HZ; an 80 is seriously underpowered with one, and even though the ozzies often fit them with turbos why not go with an engine designed from the ground up for a turbo? So my rec. is a locked j-spec.
 
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