help me decide...which 80

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Apr 13, 2006
Threads
60
Messages
1,927
Location
vansterdam, BC
ok..so im still very undecided on which route i want to take on my 80 purchase. i keep going back and forth between gas/diesel/jdm/na spec. i have yet to drive a 3FE.

in a perfect world, id have 20+G's at my disposal...and have a my dream HDJ81 w/ 3rd row seats retrofitted. but i dont have 20G's...more like 13-15 max. there are a few ive got my eye on. in the end, i want to have the equivalent of my 4runner. locked, sliders, bumpers, etc. at least 295's. maybe 315's but i dont want to think about having to regear..for the time being anyway. ive got a 2nd set of wheels...so i might run 2 separate sets. this will be my DD. i drive to abby from surrey for work...mostly hwy. no room for a commuter beater.

so far, ive seen some that are (with a lil luck) somewhat in my budget...

* '97 80. stock. ones out east, one in eastern WA. which would be easier to get here? i know there are more, but theyre all green/white. i want black/gunmetal/grey.

* JDM 3FE. already built & local. is a JDM 3FE even worth it.? already sifted through the 1FZ vs 3FE threads...neither seems to get more votes. already has 3rd row seats.

* stockish HDJ81. saw one on a dealer lot amongst a bunch of other imports. kinda sketchy about getting one from a nn dealer...but id probably run it through ATEB. there are no HDJ81 lemons...right? ;)

* import my own HDJ81...working on a couple from stock to mildly built..but would have to go through all the legwork. i'd probably use an importer/broker...ill pay for that piece of mind. would rather get one with ave miles on it...140-170k. not interested in paying the premium for an über low K one.

what say ye cruiser experts? if i were to go gasser...4 or 4.5L? gaah...decisions decisions...:bang:

input/opinions/flames welcome...thanks.
 
i got my HDJ81 from:

Home

ie:

Detail Page

Grant has few 81, all automatics, some lifted. The LC he had were gone within few weeks. If you end up getting one leave some $ for BBE, turbo rebuild, timing belt and few small stuff (around 2.5 Kilo pesos). i get 23MPG on my 1HZ-T with the 5 speed. The 35" tires do not seem to affect stock gears, if anything it seems like the truck was meant to have that size tires.
Good luck. (BTW, gas will be $1,50 by june)
 
i get 23MPG on my 1HZ-T with the 5 speed.

My relatively stock 91 80 with a 3fe gets under 10 mpg in town. Highway its 14 ish. It is running nice. I dunno what to do about it.

My body is super clean, almost zilch for rust. Even the frame is black. But the gas is a killer. Although I only paid 6500 for it.

If you plan to drive lots and have no issues with owning a RHD then I would pony up and get the JDM diesel. A JDM gasser is most definitely not worth it. The USA has a much more depressed market for gassers, and the prices are good.

A post 92 gasser is supposedly much better on fuel than the 3fe.

But the 3fe supposedly is tougher and more reliable. All info I read here.
 
A post 92 gasser is supposedly much better on fuel than the 3fe.

But the 3fe supposedly is tougher and more reliable. All info I read here.

For a bit of fun, why don't you post that reliability question on the 80s threads and watch the fish swarm at the bait? :hillbilly:
 
. I don't recommend black. My Safari is balck over silver. It is too hot in the summer and shows every spec of crud. Worse than white IMO. .


I second the black paint opinion, but you are wrong on the white. My 45 is white, and suprisingly hides the dirt very well. Granted it doesn't get that dirty sitting in a carport.
 
For a bit of fun, why don't you post that reliability question on the 80s threads and watch the fish swarm at the bait? :hillbilly:

Well.... I'm not the stir the pot kinda guy. But I did gather that info from here on mud.

The post 92 gas pots sure have a bad rap for head gasket issues, and are more complicated. The ole 3fe is very basic engine even for an efi engine. But it is kinda crude and slow. But I bet it runs on crap gas better, and can take more slogging.

I've always said speed wasn't everything. But the slow speed with my BJ60 was at least economical. My 80 is a lot quicker thou than the BJ60.
 
thanks for the advice guys. ive now got my heart set on an HDJ81...stock or not. any thoughts on these examples?

local:
1
2
3 saw this one..its locked but not sure of the dealer. gonna take it for a test drive...
tyee's all tyee's stock is 10% off...

and one im looking to import. any opinions on tradecarview and the dealers they represent?

of course im going to do beb's and full baseline. do the turbos need to be rebuilt on a regular basis? ive never heard of them needing a rebuild...just injection pump servicing and beb's for things to be aware of...

...and black isnt so bad. a scratch remover wax or two a year and she shines nicely. now a day after rain is another question...haha

btw...anyone looking to buy a built 4runner? ;)
 
your links don't work, they just take you to canadatrader.com's front page.
The Outback guy told me that close to 50% of the turbos they get need to be rebuilt. You can tally up a pretty serious bill pretty quick if you buy a truck and shortly end up needing a turbo rebuild, injectors, timing belt, BEBs, a rad and a water pump, and new batteries for example. Your $15,000 truck could become a $21,000 truck in a hurry. Not saying this will happen, but it easily COULD.

If I were in the market for an 81 (and I wish I were...) I would find the extra money, likely buy another Outback truck, and console myself that it still cost less than a new Jetta. Then I'd keep it for 20 years.

PS - speaking as a guy that currently has 3 black vehicles, I can honestly say black SUCKS, especially on a wheeler!!
 
You can tally up a pretty serious bill pretty quick if you buy a truck and shortly end up needing a turbo rebuild, injectors, timing belt, BEBs, a rad and a water pump, and new batteries for example. Your $15,000 truck could become a $21,000 truck in a hurry. Not saying this will happen, but it easily COULD.

Ask Marcin ;) And I'm if you did he would say it's worth every penny. Marcin got a great deal on a 81 and I'm sure he knew it would need a BEB and turbo rebuild, and as far as I'm concerned he still gat a great deal for a truck that he can wheel for years to come.
GG
 
If you are not importing yourself, I wouldn't limit myself to Outback. There were some recent grumblings about a reduction in service quality there. I would check around the other import dealers. If you see a rig you like, test drive it. If it still feels right, than get an independent inspection by a shop which knows 4x4 diesels. You will want the turbo check, compression tests, maybe a leak down test, oil pressure checked (mechanical gauge), etc. Check for rust and body work. I caught one dealer a few years ago filling in a major hole with way too much bondo. Get a roll of magnetic tape from Crappy Tire. Lay out about 30-50cm and just pull it all over the vehicle body. If it drops off, that panel either is not metal or has bondo.

There are quite a few HDJ81s sitting around at dealer's lots. IMO, only a couple can be really trusted. Check out the thread in the diesel section on the importers.
 
that extra $$$ that may be needed not long after a purchase could come as a nasty surprise...

No nasty suprises if you yopu are willing to pay $200-300 for someone who knows what they are doing. You can check most things. Okay, it is a bit more work to check an IP properly and I don't think there is any dealer which checks them out. Direct injection injectors are another big ticket items. If you buy one of Crushers rigs he will cover it out of his pocket if anything goes sideways on you. The rest of them, you are SOL unless you have an extra warrenty which covers it. Some of them have warranties but they vary in what they cover. Read the fine print.
 
If it was me in the market for a JDM:

- pay extra for a crushers rig, or possibly outback.
-never pay a deposit unless it was from either of the above
-preferable have it inspected and look at in in person prior to buying.
-never bother importing myself, as I'm not much of a gambling man. Some guys are, but I am not. I know I can get a deal that way. But I'd rather pay a little more to look at in person.
-have it inspected independently if your not capable of looking it over yourself.

with JDMs, and all things that are profitable.
don't trust the odometer.
don't trust salesmen, after all they are used car salesmen who are selling this to make money.
don't pay a deposit to a shady importer. Why not pay the shady auction companies instead? Or pay the premium to crushers.


Budget for main bearings, tires, yah and a new steering wheel.

DON'T ever think this is a new vehicle. You are buying a 15 yr old truck that you have no clue on who owned it or even if they maintained beyond the mandatory times in Japan.
 
I was looking at the gassers too till I seen what they get for mileage = no thanks.... but they are half price of the jdm's . 8g will buy alot of gas

from my site surfin, unless you find someone to trust over in JP by the time its shipped and DOT'd + beb ect it would probly be close to same $ to get one here (+- 2g ).not including your time.

check to see if these local ones have dot Headlights , there 400+ each if they still have the jdm lights
 
I was looking at the gassers too till I seen what they get for mileage = no thanks.... but they are half price of the jdm's . 8g will buy alot of gas

from my site surfin, unless you find someone to trust over in JP by the time its shipped and DOT'd + beb ect it would probly be close to same $ to get one here (+- 2g ).not including your time.

check to see if these local ones have dot Headlights , there 400+ each if they still have the jdm lights

firgure I paid 6500. A jdm from 91 is about 15k or more. Many over 20k.

I feel I can economically convert a US 80 with a diesel engine. Then I have LHD(no future ICBC issues) and 3rd row seats.
 
man..all this talk about repair costs...turbo rebuilds..ip servicing has got me all :eek: haha. i thought these trucks (and motors specifically) were supposed to be reliable, simple and bulletproof if properly cared for (as with any other..gas or diesel) and should last alot longer than their gas counterparts....hence their premium price? doing more searching and reading threads on high EGT's that can melt your pistons and tranny temps that will fry the slushbox while doing 80k up the coq..and thats not even with heavy towing...

i dont want nasty surprises. sounds like a turbo rebuild or major IP overhaul might be a ticking time bomb like an HG on a 1FZ....? ? im starting to re-evaluate the tried & true albeit slow & thirsty 3FE with all this "expect to pay big $$$ for ___ to be fixed"

with all the high mile US spec gassers, it almost makes it seem (to me anyway) that the gaspots are less high maintenance and just alot thistier? im a newbie when it comes to oilburners..but i too want to be cool and drive a diesel cruiser :grinpimp: . i was looking at the diesels for their reliable reputation as well as their better fuel economy..but now im all confused..again . i know its not a cheaper direct alternative as repairs can be much more $$$ but i didnt think that would be that much of an issue as i thought the risk of a lemon HDJ81 were pretty low...

yes...8G's can buy more gas if i were to go that route. but at 20L/100KM in a 95L tank @ 1.20/L...that 8G's will get burnt up pretty quick. that option still isnt completely out of the question. maybe ill just do what brownbear is thinking and buy a dirt cheap FJ80 and convert that...at least itll be LHD and 3rd row seats. all id have to add is dual arbs...lift ..sliders..man does it ever end?

thanks for the input so far guys...keep em comin'
 
Well if you are concerned about all that stuff, you could always buy a Nissan safari.:p

It really doesn't matter about the IP where the diesel is from. If it doesn't have the viton type seals, the old rubber ones are going to eventually crack and start leaking. It doesn't look too involved to replace the seals. Most fuel injection shops as a matter of profit (err, I mean habit) will recommend that the pump be torn down, checked for clearances and rbuilt. You should be able to do just seals and then have it re-timed for under $300 if you pull and install the pump yourself. Of course you can wait another year and get a 1994 JDM. It will have the Viton type seals.

BB route is great for an 80. Sun faded but rust free locked 80s come up regularly in the South Western US. If you budget another $10,000 Max for a 1994 or newer JDM engine, you will be ahead of the game. Or maybe even a crate engine from Toyota. Nissan just released the TD4.2T for just over $7500 in Australia - cheap when considering it comes with a brand new factory turbo and IP. Wish I had the money. Search around and you might find the same for the Cruiser.

As for melting pistons, you can do that with any diesel if you are not careful. Just use a bit of common sense and a EGT gauge and it will never happen to you. If you want to avoid the tranny issues, you can get an auto valve upgrade or stick with a standard. I figure lots of auto tranny issues are the result of poor fluid care and bad driving habits.
 
OK the skinny of things....

The ole FJ80's from 91-92 are cheap. Mine was from Washington originally and is rust free. And not even faded. Look good IMOP.

If I wanted a cheaper JDM 80 I would look at a HZJ80 not a HDJ. I would go with the time trusted tough 1HZ engine. In fact that is the engine I want to install in the FJ80 I have.
 
Back
Top Bottom