Help interpreting drive shaft angles... (1 Viewer)

Delancy

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Drop arms might be a path for me to choose. I wrote to Slee via a "conversation" on this forum some days ago, but so far no reply.

Christo may not hang out on the forum. Best to email.

mailto:info@sleeoffroad.com

Being new to this forum, who is Ben?

Ben is at Slee.

He, Rick (landtank), and Jesse at High Angle were all instrumental in correcting issues I had with driveline vibrations.

At that time, Ben made mention of double, double cardan shafts being used on another ice cruiser, so betting they've experience with the set up you're engulfed in.

Slee is the only to offer radius arm replacements, apart from the SE arms I had, so it can't hurt to discuss with them.

Delancy can you quote me prices for these parts?

There's a thread in WTS.

Diligently search my posts in the 80 forum, then make an offer.

I won't pimp the goods to anyone...

it doesn't matter how you go about rotating the whole axle, whether its with plates, arms, drop brackets, the end result will always be the same.

and, at least, one of the following will be jacked.

Steering
Caster
Pinion angle
Axle center, in relation to well or perches.

What's it gonna take, Rick, for someone to step up and offer a holistic solution to this issue, including, but not limited to, a housing?

Is it the investment from a vendors perspective?

The perceived lack of market?

I don't understand why it's not possible to list 3" or 4" lift with shocks, coils, rear links, panhards, drag link, possibly high steer, and a prepared axle housing that solves the issues of every other thread on this forum.

Just curious why, after all these years, there's not an offering for a corrected axle housing....
 
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Hårlev, Roskilde, Denmark
Ok, so thanks for sharing all the knowledge. I think all options are laid out and explained so I understand them. I am considering which part of the equation to attack. Seems 2nd hand dc shafts from 4runners are available here, so that could be a place to start :)
 
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I removed all the factory brackets and did a cut and turn when I lifted mine. Time consuming and meticulous work, but if you can do basic fab work you should be able to handle the job. On a side note. When you do any measuring make sure you're on a nice level surface, front to back and side to side. And don't use a phone app. Go buy a dang magnetic base digital bevel box at Sears or even Hobo Freight. And always endure the gauge is oriented the same way. For instance. If the buttons on the bevel box are parallel and toward the transfer case output, the buttons should parallel and away from the pinion flange. I had to have a DC driveline made for mine before I cut and turned the housing. Also, the growl might be from the rear driveline, I did this same thing with mine after lifting and I finally noticed shiny spots on my rear pinion yoke portion of the rear driveline where the upper yoke had been making slight contact on deceleration. Good luck to you.
 

landtank

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Ok, so thanks for sharing all the knowledge. I think all options are laid out and explained so I understand them. I am considering which part of the equation to attack. Seems 2nd hand dc shafts from 4runners are available here, so that could be a place to start :)

That might be the correct one for you. Our auto 80s have a T-case bolt pattern smaller than that of the 4Runner so we use a Tacoma donor shaft. A quick check on the diameter of the studs should tell you which one to use. The studs for the Tacoma shaft would be 10mm while the larger ones for the 4Runner are 11mm.
 
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I removed all the factory brackets and did a cut and turn when I lifted mine. Time consuming and meticulous work, but if you can do basic fab work you should be able to handle the job.

Dang son! Respect for that. I imagine a jig set up to facilitate everything to go back on together timed appropriately? The housings isn't even round for the most part, pain in the butt !

I woulda just stripped it bare and started from scratch. You sir, have great patience
 
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Meridian Idaho
ya - dude this is one of those things , that is why I did not went over 3" on my lift , Front one you can fix it with center double yoke
and castor kit and the rear one you have to go with double yoke from the transfer case and adjustable rear track bar.
- your money is there your hobby is -
 
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Booger, thanks. I actually did it all with a craftsman digital bevel gauge and a lot of tinkering and a few jackstands to set the housing on and ensure it was level, lots of pre-measuring and marking and notes and pics etc.. Took my time welding everything in several stages and checking between welds to make sure things were still correct. There were a lot of broken tack welds throughout the process to ensure everything was right and not just close enough.
 
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Hårlev, Roskilde, Denmark
Just thought I read somewhere that 4runner was compatible, so thanks for that piece of info.
Tacomas as none existing here.... What about 60-series shaft? Otherwise output flanges could be swithed to match 4runner?

I am pretty confident it is not the rear DS. The car drives 100% OK with only the rear DS in. When I drive with only front DS in, the problem is there. I am not sure, but seeing that the front DS of the auto is significantly longer than the manual, I am guessing that the rear DS of the auto is shorter than the front and therefore, with a longer rear DS, I do not experience problems on my manuel. Just a theory... will have to measure a rear DS of an auto when I get a chance... But anyways, problem is with the front DS.
 

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