Help ID this V8 Swap??? (1 Viewer)

[Jimb074]

I am in the process of acquiring a rolling chassis that will become the base for a new project. The PO has this labeled as 1965, 3 speed, with a Chevy 305 V8. Based on conversations with PO, this swap was probably performed in the 80’s and would have been “done on a budget”.
I was able to get some photos and would appreciate any insight on parts used and/or how it was performed.
Based on my research and the first photo, the heads appear to relatively close to the firewall. Looking at the radiator and fan not seeing that there is a lot of room to shift the assembly forward. The trans tunnel has a single factory hole but the t-case had a custom linkage mounted through the floor to the right of the tunnel. The t-case mount also seems like it may be a custom build. I was not able to get underneath to inspect the drivelines to see if they were switched or had been modified.
My goal is to get this motor and chassis in working order for my next project. Seems that so much “fix it” info. is related to how the V8 swap was performed and with whose parts/kit was used?
Thanks in advance for your input and feedback.

 

[bikersmurf]

Home Brew. Doesn't look like one of the standard patterns.

Front and rear driveshafts were probably swapped to avoid having to modify driveshaft lengths. Although this was commonly done, the SBC is too close to the firewall for good circulation which leads to overheating problems.

 

[Downey]

Front motor mounts are either old style Advance Adapters, or home made, bad design because the FJ40 has a hot riveted frame that is way too flexible, so when frame flexes the movement is magnified as it travels up the weld-on motor mount, then rips rubber cushion apart- - -cushions should be down at the frame, not up at the engine block. Rear motor mount is way way home made, and way way too thin- - -motor shifting during a panic stop could bend that rear mount. All of above (front & rear) has been proven many times- - -sorry for the bad news.
Motor crammed back into firewall, will run hot all the time, engine must be moved forward. Check out ebay #265820801011 front motor mounts, they are designed properly. Send me your snail mail address and I will mail you a freebie Downey V8 installation manual that tells you exactly where to put the engine. I am out of rear mounts at the moment, but you should look for the 3/8" thick Advance Adapters rear mount, or the Downey 1/2" thick rear mount, check with fellow Mudders for availability.

 

[69FJ40NJ]

What is the recommended distance from the motor to the firewall? And where on the motor are you taking the measurement from?

 

[peesalot]

Your radiator has been moved back and down, not necessary and with that corrected you can install new motor mounts to set motor away from firewall.

 

[locklaw]

Aside from the sage advice you received above, the valve cover decal suggests you got a Goodwrench 350 motor, which in itself is not necessarily a bad thing once the fitment of the motor is fixed. Also, remove that cheap inline clear plastic fuel filter visible on top of the motor unless you want to burn down the rig.

 

[bikersmurf]

Jim aka Downey has a good conversion manual… as well as Advance Adapters.

4-5” ballpark

 

[bikersmurf]

SBC swap with manual steering

Here are two pics of my '65 with SBC and 2" ram horns with original manual box. Early style mount and no rag joint on the shaft, but you get the idea. I did have to shift stuff around a bit, but the engine is straight and close to center which was the only way to get the transfer case to fit...

forum.ih8mud.com

Some pics and measurements of my current setup. 1/2” further back and the shafts would be equal in length