Help Confirm & Identify a Leak (1 Viewer)

[Gunky]

I'm losing oil relatively quick and when taking a look around under the engine, it seems that there are a few 'wet' areas that are collecting gunk and it hasn't rained in a few days (entire bottom of the engine is covered). Last year I replaced the valve cover gasket and fixed the leaking on the upper engine. Now it looks like I have another oil leak somewhere, and a quick search tells me that it is probably a front engine seal and oil pump cover o-ring. Could someone confirm the leaks I have and what needs to be replaced before I order parts? I'm thinking of picking up wit's end oil pump leak kit and probably have a shop do it for me since it seems work intensive since I want to get this fixed quickly. I've attached several pictures below of the areas that I've briefly wiped them down already, but are still 'wet'.

 

[rolliges]

Bingo!

 

[Gunky]

Bingo!

That's what I'm after of. I guess I'm going to need to look up a guide on how to get these deals replaced without messing with the timing. A shop that I know just quoted me $1600 for the job, but the parts are inexpensive in comparison.

 

[rolliges]

You can do it yourself. I'm no mechanic by any means and did it. Timing shouldn't be effected.

Good time to install a new radiator too if you need it.

There is also a crank sensor o-ring that can leak. (Visible, kind of, in the last 3 pics). There's a thread describing the fix.

 

[Gunky]

You can do it yourself. I'm no mechanic by any means and did it. Timing shouldn't be effected.

Good time to install a new radiator too if you need it.

There is also a crank sensor o-ring that can leak. (Visible, kind of, in the last 3 pics). There's a thread describing the fix.

Thank you for letting me know, I guess I'mma have to gather the parts and find the time to tackle it. Do you know how long it took you to finish the job? Also, how did you break loose? Did you use the starter? And how'd you get it to 300 lb-ft torque? (sorry for all the questions, just trying to gather as much info as I can)

 

[aclos3]

I broke mine loose by buying a crank pulley removal tool and attaching it to a 1/2" breaker bar that I lashed to the passenger side frame. I also bought a 44" long, 3/4" breaker bar and 3/4" 30mm socket. At first I bought a 1/2" 30mm socket because I had reducers from 3/4" to 1/2", but I broke BOTH of these reducers trying to remove it. Switching to a 3/4" socket and taking the reducers out of the picture solved the issue. I was very concerned that I'd break the 1/2" breaker bar (specifically the pin for the swivel head), but this did not happen.

I had also tried air impact, but my gun is only good for 550lb*ft of torque and wasn't able to remove the nut.

The two threaded holes on the crank pulley that the removal tool attaches to are M8 1.25 pitch and I used a thread chaser (tap) to clean out these holes before attaching the removal tool.

I stripped 4 of the 7 oil pump cover screws. Even with tapping in a well fitting PH3 drive, I had very little luck. I also found that my stripped screw removal tool was not up to the task for this job and ended up very carefully drilling the screws out, being sure not to drill out any of the metal from the housing. I re-tapped all of the holes to M6-1.0 size and got good engagement on all seven screws.

I plan to either borrow a big torque wrench from my neighbor, or just tighten the bolt with the giant breaker bar with "everything I've got," since that will surely get it over 304lb*ft.

 

[DKW]

There is an excellent video on youtube. I used his method. To torque it back up i used a 5ft pipe from home depot and a scale (like to weigh your luggage). Divide the required torque by 5ft, and pull that weight on your scale.

I broke my radiator nipple by accident so took radiator out, was easier then to get oil bolts out using an impact drill. Replace these with torx or hex for next removal. I bought the correct JIS bit for these screws to remove them. Stripped head on one of them, but HF EZ out took it out really easy. Find the video, it is very clear

 

[DKW]

Texasknowhow made the video on youtube.

Title 80s Land cruiser oil leak fix

 

[Gunky]

There is an excellent video on youtube. I used his method. To torque it back up i used a 5ft pipe from home depot and a scale (like to weigh your luggage). Divide the required torque by 5ft, and pull that weight on your scale.

I broke my radiator nipple by accident so took radiator out, was easier then to get oil bolts out using an impact drill. Replace these with torx or hex for next removal. I bought the correct JIS bit for these screws to remove them. Stripped head on one of them, but HF EZ out took it out really easy. Find the video, it is very clear

Using a 5ft pipe and a scale is pretty ingenious. I'll remember that when I take a go at this job. I've skipped through a few videos already, and probably watch over them once more before hand. I'm hoping not to mess with the radiator either since I've replaced that not long ago. Ideally, I'd like to avoid stripping any screws and breaking other parts.

 

[rolliges]

I used the starter and you WILL need a ¾" breaker bar to do this. Or buy the tool that OTRAMM has that will let you loosen and tighten the bolt. For 304 ft./lbs I got a HF torque wrench (a short cheater bar and pulled like hell) and used a 14mm long impact socket on the flex plate. In retrospect, Otramm's tool is the way to go.

The rest took only a day of work and many days of research and planning.

A rite of passage.

 

[ScubaSteve80]

I used Otramm's video below, it will show you how to do it from start to finish. I did mine and it was a pain only because my screws stripped. It can be done and it's not too bad of a job if the screws don't strip.

I will say that I changed my oil pump seal and I'm glad I did but my leak was actually coming from the distributor. I would say before you tackle the oil pump seal, check in your distributor cap and see if you see oil in it. All of this could be coming from a distributor o-ring like mine was. My distributor o-ring was hard as plastic. It's hard to find the source of an oil leak in the front because the fan blows the oil everywhere. Assuming you find oil in the distributor cap and you change the distributor o-ring but you still see oil in the distributor you will need a new distributor which is what really happened to me. I found a distributor from a guy parting out an LC for cheap. That's what fixed my oil leak. An oil leak in the front usually only comes from two places, the distributor or the oil pump seal. Start with the distributor, then the oil pump seal.

If you do tackle the oil pump make sure you have a torque wrench big enough to put the pulley bolt back to the correct torque, you can usually rent one somewhere. It's very important to get that torque back to spec or you will have issues in other places. The tool to get the crank pulley off is essential in doing the job. I made my own and its not hard if you know anyone that can weld. It could probably be done without welding as well. Check out the below thread for home made tools. You'll have to have it. $1,600 is a lot of money to do this job when you compare the cost of just the parts if you do it yourself. I should say that I don't consider myself a good mechanic and I tackled this job with a two buddies and got it done in about a day and a half ( lot of beer breaks when we should have been working). It can be done and there is a video that shows you step by step, you can do this. I do agree that if you are in there, a new radiator is a good idea, you should also replace the main seal like Otramm does in the video. I buy most of my parts from Cruiser Outfitters and they could set you up with everything you need. You won't find better customer service anywhere.

You can see my build thread in my signature to see some pictures and details of the radiator I got and parts I got for the other jobs.

Good luck with the job. You'll be happy you did it yourself if you tackle it. In my personal opinion owning an LC is all about maintaining it yourself and feeling proud you did it yourself. You have a video that shows you every step. You got this. If you have any questions along the way feel free to ask and we will get you through it.

Crank Pulley Holding tool....question

I am wanting to make a Crank Pulley Holding Tool that will fit both by 100 series and 80 Series. Anyone happen to know the center to center distance for the bolt holes of either (particularly the 80 series)?

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Gunky]

I used Otramm's video below, it will show you how to do it from start to finish. I did mine and it was a pain only because my screws stripped. It can be done and it's not too bad of a job if the screws don't strip.

I will say that I changed my oil pump seal and I'm glad I did but my leak was actually coming from the distributor. I would say before you tackle the oil pump seal, check in your distributor cap and see if you see oil in it. All of this could be coming from a distributor o-ring like mine was. My distributor o-ring was hard as plastic. It's hard to find the source of an oil leak in the front because the fan blows the oil everywhere. Assuming you find oil in the distributor cap and you change the distributor o-ring but you still see oil in the distributor you will need a new distributor which is what really happened to me. I found a distributor from a guy parting out an LC for cheap. That's what fixed my oil leak. An oil leak in the front usually only comes from two places, the distributor or the oil pump seal. Start with the distributor, then the oil pump seal.

If you do tackle the oil pump make sure you have a torque wrench big enough to put the pulley bolt back to the correct torque, you can usually rent one somewhere. It's very important to get that torque back to spec or you will have issues in other places. The tool to get the crank pulley off is essential in doing the job. I made my own and its not hard if you know anyone that can weld. It could probably be done without welding as well. Check out the below thread for home made tools. You'll have to have it. $1,600 is a lot of money to do this job when you compare the cost of just the parts if you do it yourself. I should say that I don't consider myself a good mechanic and I tackled this job with a two buddies and got it done in about a day and a half ( lot of beer breaks when we should have been working). It can be done and there is a video that shows you step by step, you can do this. I do agree that if you are in there, a new radiator is a good idea, you should also replace the main seal like Otramm does in the video. I buy most of my parts from Cruiser Outfitters and they could set you up with everything you need. You won't find better customer service anywhere.

You can see my build thread in my signature to see some pictures and details of the radiator I got and parts I got for the other jobs.

Good luck with the job. You'll be happy you did it yourself if you tackle it. In my personal opinion owning an LC is all about maintaining it yourself and feeling proud you did it yourself. You have a video that shows you every step. You got this. If you have any questions along the way feel free to ask and we will get you through it.

Crank Pulley Holding tool....question

I am wanting to make a Crank Pulley Holding Tool that will fit both by 100 series and 80 Series. Anyone happen to know the center to center distance for the bolt holes of either (particularly the 80 series)?

forum.ih8mud.com

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Thanks for the indepth reply. I appreciate all the advice you gave. I've done plenty of work on the car myself already (new radiator, valve gasket, distribor cap, spark plugs and grommets, and the heater core). Most of them are fairly labor intensive and I do agree that it is an accomplishment to do the work yourself. I did notice the distributor is leaking also. I have already ordered Wit's End oil pump leak kit that also includes the distributor o-ring. I figured if I'm gonna put in work to fix a leak, might as well fix all the related stuff within reason. Only thing that would steer me to having a shop do it would be finding time and having the right tools to get the job done right.

Also, I've already watched through TexasKnowHow and OTRAMM's video. I'm in the process of gathering tools and just planning on how to go about it all (especially loosening and torquing the crank pulley).

 

[ScubaSteve80]

Thanks for the indepth reply. I appreciate all the advice you gave. I've done plenty of work on the car myself already (new radiator, valve gasket, distribor cap, spark plugs and grommets, and the heater core). Most of them are fairly labor intensive and I do agree that it is an accomplishment to do the work yourself. I did notice the distributor is leaking also. I have already ordered Wit's End oil pump leak kit that also includes the distributor o-ring. I figured if I'm gonna put in work to fix a leak, might as well fix all the related stuff within reason. Only thing that would steer me to having a shop do it would be finding time and having the right tools to get the job done right.

Also, I've already watched through TexasKnowHow and OTRAMM's video. I'm in the process of gathering tools and just planning on how to go about it all (especially loosening and torquing the crank pulley).

Nice. I just finished a heater core myself. You're definitely capable of doing this, sorry I misread your experience level. The pulley tool is the only difficult part to get, and I do believe they sell them. As far as the time it takes, if you're doing this alone my guess you could do it in 4 afternoons. You'll spend one evening getting the radiator out (as you know), another night getting the pulley and oil pump over off, one putting the pulley and belts back on, last on putting the radiator back in. I'm not sure if Witts End kit comes with a new philips head for the screws but that should help with not stripping the screws. If you strip the screws this might take an additional evening. Four or five days is a long time to not have a vehicle so I get where you are coming from if this is your daily driver. I would think a shop would have it that long too though if they fix it. Good luck. Let us know what you decide.

 

[clx16]

@Gunky the price you were quoted will get you a LOT of great tools. I only had one screw mess with me and used this to get it out https://www.lowes.com/pd/SpeedOut-8-1-8-in-Double-Ended-Screw-Extractor/1000170531
I then replaced them all... torx or hex will get you more piece of mind in the future. The timing issue only comes in to play with the distributor o-ring, and just save that till last and mark where everything was on the way out. it won't be that hard to get it back when you are done.

3/4 breaker bar and 300lb torque wrench at HB will be enough. I grabbed the metric impact kit for 3/4in drive too. I heard mine click and then i just pulled a couple of inches more. I bumped the starter.. i was nervous but it was fast and saved me energy. Bump it and then disconnect the battery, and then get moving on the rest. when torquing down i used a (if my memory is correct) a 14mm deepwell impact socket on the flywheel through the inspection hole.
Since I was at lows anyway for the screw extractor kit i got the PVC coupling that many people use to push in the new crank seal. Worked like a charm.
If you don't want to use a seal puller for the crank seal, you can do what I do sometimes, drill a small hole in the seal, and then put in a sheetmetal screw in that hole and pull on the head to get the seal out. just make sure you don't drill in to the mating surfaces where the new seal will need to seal.

using a screw to pull seal - Google Search

If you don't want to remove the radiator, you are going to want to at least put cardboard around it to protect it from all your tooling.

go to the dollar store and get yourself some small metal (turkey) pans to keep the parts in and clean them in. I wasted so much time worrying but it really was no that bad of a job.

if you have a helper, even just someone to hand you tool sand put things in the pans, you can speed up the process a good bit.

 

[Gunky]

@Gunky the price you were quoted will get you a LOT of great tools. I only had one screw mess with me and used this to get it out https://www.lowes.com/pd/SpeedOut-8-1-8-in-Double-Ended-Screw-Extractor/1000170531
I then replaced them all... torx or hex will get you more piece of mind in the future. The timing issue only comes in to play with the distributor o-ring, and just save that till last and mark where everything was on the way out. it won't be that hard to get it back when you are done.

3/4 breaker bar and 300lb torque wrench at HB will be enough. I grabbed the metric impact kit for 3/4in drive too. I heard mine click and then i just pulled a couple of inches more. I bumped the starter.. i was nervous but it was fast and saved me energy. Bump it and then disconnect the battery, and then get moving on the rest. when torquing down i used a (if my memory is correct) a 14mm deepwell impact socket on the flywheel through the inspection hole.
Since I was at lows anyway for the screw extractor kit i got the PVC coupling that many people use to push in the new crank seal. Worked like a charm.
If you don't want to use a seal puller for the crank seal, you can do what I do sometimes, drill a small hole in the seal, and then put in a sheetmetal screw in that hole and pull on the head to get the seal out. just make sure you don't drill in to the mating surfaces where the new seal will need to seal.

using a screw to pull seal - Google Search

If you don't want to remove the radiator, you are going to want to at least put cardboard around it to protect it from all your tooling.

go to the dollar store and get yourself some small metal (turkey) pans to keep the parts in and clean them in. I wasted so much time worrying but it really was no that bad of a job.

if you have a helper, even just someone to hand you tool sand put things in the pans, you can speed up the process a good bit.

You are right, all that money could go into buying plenty of tools. It seems like bumping the starter and using a 14mm into the flywheel is quite common. 300 ft-lbs sounded tough at first, but can be done. Thanks for additional advice. Sounds like this job shouldn't be as overwhelming as changing a heater core (which took me 2 nights). I really like the idea of replacing the screw with hex/torx, might just not use the ones that will come with the Wit's End kit.

Also, how long of a breaker bar would I need? Would 20" be long enough to have it touch the frame rail?

 

[clx16]

The hb torque wrench is not short. I did it one handed and I don't gym

 

[Kernal]

You'll need a 3/4" drive breaker bar; I ordered mine from Auto/zones; about $60 IIRC, and something like 43" long.

A 20" bar would just make it under the frame rails but it needs to be 3/4" drive. Most 3/4" drive bars are 40" long (there is one on Summit that is 19", might just make it (or put a pipe over the bar if you need more length).

Performance Tool W34120 Performance Tool Breaker Bars | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Performance Tool Breaker Bars with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Breaker Bars at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Performance Tool W34122 Performance Tool Breaker Bars | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Performance Tool Breaker Bars with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Breaker Bars at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

For a torque wrench I went with a 3/4" drive, 100-600 ft lbs (do not use it as a breaker bar!). Chose the 600 ft lb wrench as torque wrenches are supposed to be most accurate in the middle of their range so paid a bit extra, figuring a real professional wrench (that might be more accurate in the entire range) of this size could cost $1000+, under $200 is not bad.

Performance Tool M204 Performance Tool Torque Wrenches | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Performance Tool Torque Wrenches with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Torque Wrenches at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

-------------------------------------------------------
This one is 50-300 ft lbs, half a foot or so shorter than the 100-600 wrench, and half the price, but you'd be guessing how far past 300 you want to turn the dial to get 304 ft lbs. Whether it needs to be that accurate, IDK

Performance Tool M203 Performance Tool Torque Wrenches | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Performance Tool Torque Wrenches with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Torque Wrenches at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

HTH

 

[davidp14]

I got a 24" 3/4 breaker bar at harbor freight for about $20. 30mm socket was about $10 on Amazon. Worked great but I havent used it since.

Bumping the starter works but dont forget to unplug the distributor.

Also I rented a 500lb tourqe wrench locally for $16 for 4hrs (minimum).
I was able to tourqe the cs bolt to exact spec with no guessing and no nightsweats. $16 for peace of mind is money Well spent if you ask me.

 

[rolliges]

The HF ¾" breaker bar is long enough but you should also carry some sort of large pipe or pipe nipple as a cheater bar. Always comes in handy.
I put this over the breaker bar where it met the frame rail for extra strength.

 

[Gunky]

Thanks everyone for all the advice and suggestions. It seems like this fix is quite common and can be done at home. I've already bought all the proper tools (HF 3/4" breaker bar & torque wrench with the 30mm socket) and just waiting for the replacement parts to arrive. Wit's End kit seems to come with everything I'll need (JIS bits, replacement hex screws, all the new seals, and probably the PVC tube also from someone else's comment). I figured I'd pay forward for the tools since I was already prepared to spend up to $500 to have a shop do it for me; tools and parts came out to be around $150 and it beats the $1600 quote I got. Hopefully everything goes smoothly and that I won't waste time tapping out stripped screws and all. If I remember to, I'll try to update this post to let everyone know how the fix goes