Help - Carb rebuild & emissions already?

[daveIT]

Took my 84 FJ60 to a shop for a general checkup/inspection (reputable & recommended by some 'mud folks) and the guy suggested that I a carb rebuild (~$500) or replacement (~$1300) to get it running good (not running rich w/ fluctuating idle) again. He also said the emissions stuff is all up and he says it's sending exhaust into the air cleaner - would that just be some clogged valves or something. There are no smog tests here so maybe I should just yank all that out.

It had a carb rebuild by Mark's Offroad over in CA at around 208K miles and it has almost 215K now...there's no way it would need another rebuild inside of 8K miles, would it?

He also said the carb idle circuit is failed--is that the idle solenoid?

This thing had so much work done to it a couple years ago (2008/2009) that I find it hard to believe the carb & emissions is jacked up...

It had $1300 worth of emissions and valve work done in '09:

Recent professional valve adjustment, new valve cover gasket
New Intake/Exhaust/EGR gaskets

Help!

 

[Jason82FJ60]

Took my 84 FJ60 to a shop for a general checkup/inspection (reputable & recommended by some 'mud folks) and the guy suggested that I a carb rebuild (~$500) or replacement (~$1300) to get it running good (not running rich w/ fluctuating idle) again. He also said the emissions stuff is all up and he says it's sending exhaust into the air cleaner - would that just be some clogged valves or something. There are no smog tests here so maybe I should just yank all that out.

It had a carb rebuild by Mark's Offroad over in CA at around 208K miles and it has almost 215K now...there's no way it would need another rebuild inside of 8K miles, would it?

He also said the carb idle circuit is failed--is that the idle solenoid?

This thing had so much work done to it a couple years ago (2008/2009) that I find it hard to believe the carb & emissions is jacked up...

It had $1300 worth of emissions and valve work done in '09:

Recent professional valve adjustment, new valve cover gasket
New Intake/Exhaust/EGR gaskets

Help!

im no expert, but under normal circumstances i dont think you would need a rebuild already... however

if more than usual dirt, water, or other debris got into your carb it is possible that it has gummed/trashed it out and would at least need a good cleaning.

another scenario that would lend credence to you needing a rebuild is the previous rebuild was not done properly. and im not trying to talk about anyones work here. but mistakes and accidents do happen to the best of us.

other than that, unless i am totally mistaken, you should be good for way more than 8k miles on a rebuild.

 

[inkpot]

Diagnosis sounds a bit strange. It MIGHT get exhaust into the intake below the carb if there was a crack in the manifolds where they mate, but not into the air cleaner. I would be looking for locak club members to help diagnose and adjust as needed. John

 

[Spike Strip]

Well, you might want to post a bunch of pix of the emissions equipment to see if stuff is hooked up wrong. Other than that, you could go through the emissions manual yourself and test the components, but if you live in a non-inspection area, it might be best to de-smog. Plenty of good threads on that.

As far as a carb rebuild, have you driven through any Tsunamis ? Could dirt have entered any other way? You driving without an air filter (it's happened)... It's unlikely the carb crapped out with that little of mileage, though.

And why the "Idle circuit failed" diagnosis? Will the truck idle with the choke ? Or other idling problems? A little more background here on why you took it in for service might help.

Easy enough to check the Idle Control Solenoid: See the green electrical connector on the carb? With the key in the ON position (no running) tap the two halves of the connector together and you should hear a "click-click" from the solenoid when you do. If you do not hear the click, there is an easy fix.

 

[daveIT]

Just picked it up & drove it home...the truck USED to idle without choke once it was at operating temperature...they must have done something with the timing as it won't idle now without it pulled out a bit...paperwork says it's adjusted to specification.

I took it in to get it a general checkup, mainly to track down the oil leak I can't find and to find out why it is running rich (smells gassy in truck). It sometimes has a bit of a loping idle when stopped (it jumps between like 1-1.5K RPM). It starts a little hard in the morning too. I don't think the carbs ever been buried in water or anything, so not sure about that..

It's passed CO emissions a few years back, but there was some funny business going on. Here's the information from the shop that fixed it to pass:

"The HAC valve has a broken vacuum tabs that are glued closed. The vehicle failed at 5.5 GPM HC and 76 GPM CO. The emissions machine showed that the engine was running lean at idle and at 2500-3000 RPMS. Steve and tech found the intake manifold gasket leaking. Tech R&R the intake manifold gasket. Two of the customer's low-grade vacuum lines were loose and causing the idle to fluctuate when the lines would come loose. Tech installed 2 pieces of Toyota vacuum line for these two vacuum lines on the side of the carb by the idle mixture adjustment. Tech put some sealer by the idle mixture screw to make sure that it would not come loose and fall out. Steve then took the vehicle to the emissions test station. The vehicle passed emissions HC 4.0214 GPM HC, 41.3215 GPM CO, and 5.1438 GPM NOX."

Thanks for the idle solenoid info...I'll check that out tomorrow.

Been looking at some desmog threads...looks like I'll need a new carb if I do that and it's cheaper than the rebuild quote...

 

[Spike Strip]

You won't need a new carb to desmog. A rebuilt Mark A. or Jim C. carb is about as good as it gets. I've got a Mark's Off Road one on mine. Both Mark and Jim do some secret voodoo to the carbs to make them better than stock.

In my sig line is a pdf download of the emissions FSM. Good diagram on vac hose routing in it. You might want to make sure everything is hooked up correctly and there are no vac leaks, cracked hoses, broken nipples, etc.

The gassy smell in the truck could be your charcoal canister check valve gone bad. Try switching the two vac lines to the top of the charcoal canister and see if that helps. There are some good threads on it.

 

[daveIT]

Sweet, thanks for that link. This carb was rebuilt by Mark...I wonder if he has records of if it was set up for smogged/desmogged engine. How would I tell if it's setup for desmog? Are there ports on the carb blocked off?

I'll look into the charcoal can...thanks for that tip.

I freaking love the guys on 'Mud and Colorado Land Cruisers...most helpful bunch of folks I've run into.

 

[Spike Strip]

Unless Mark asked you or you asked him specifically for a carb to run on a desmoged motor, he would not have altered it for one. But you could always call him and ask if he has any suggestions... You will also need a couple of components and caps and plugs for the desmog, as well as an idler for the smog pump delete. Jim C. sells those, and I believe Mark does too, but not sure on that. Jim C (FJ40jim) has a link in his sig line for the smog stuff.

Good luck!