Help, best disc brake conversion, 1971 FJ

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

E

EatSleepFish

Joined
Sep 11, 2016
Threads
3
Messages
7
Location
NC
I know the subject has been widely discussed. I have spent hours researching it. I'm looking for the best way to switch both front and back to disc. I have a 1971 FJ40. I would like to use the original riveted rims (as they have been prepped & painted) but realize that may not be an option.

Here is my understanding of my options:

Front:
FJ60 conversion--use this or truck front axle and then use FJ60 non-vented brakes. Are there other options here for vented?

MAF front kit--- Wildwood, this way I get ventilated rotors

JT outfitters: I've read that early on there were issues but that has changed???


Rear:

MAF or JTO rears. any good?

Posers kit: this appears to be the way to go. Use these brackets and go with Monte Carlo/compatible rotors/calipers.


Again, I'm looking for the most up to date info./recommendations. Ease of installation, dependability and parts are all important. I may want to add a OME 2" lift at some point. I also want to run 31's on original rims (rivet or weld).


Thanks in advance.
 
Do the FJ60 front end stuff. It's all good, excellent reliability. If 4 wheel disc brakes with the stock brake rotors aren't good enough, you can get vented rotors for an FJ60 application from a couple of different sources (not worth while, IMHO).

There is a vendor (RedLine, I think) who does a modification to Tacoma parts to give you bigger more powerful brakes. But in my case, the 4wdb using FJ40/4Runner parts and Monte Carlo rears is plenty of brake power.
 
Last edited:
FJ60 use Vented rotors, the mini trucks don't have vented rotors. @Downey Why go to the larger master cylinder? You have worked with rear disk brake conversions for years and I value your opinion but you loose braking force when you go to a larger bore master cylinder.
 
For the front-No question the FJ60 stuff is the way to go. Well thought out, works perfectly, done hundreds of times. I'd run a 76-78 FJ40 master if you stay with the stock rear brakes. FJ60 master would likely work OK too.

For the rear-not sure I'd bother. The rear drums work OK when adjusted properly-but they are a pain to adjust properly. Maybe just get new wheel cylinders and shoes and call it good. If you're determined to get rear discs, I'd trust @Poser if he has a bolt on kit.

One other option for the rear-run a cut down FZJ80 rear axle. That gets you a full float axle, excellent rear disc brakes, and stays all toyota. @Fast Eddy did it that way, and likely what I would do, since it worked out so well in my FJ60.
 
Use the Monte Carlo rear kit as Downey said. They work very, very well. Install a residual valve for sure but you can run the factory brake master and it will work just great.
 
cruiserfj45 said:
FJ60 use Vented rotors, the mini trucks don't have vented rotors. @Downey Why go to the larger master cylinder? You have worked with rear disk brake conversions for years and I value your opinion but you loose braking force when you go to a larger bore master cylinder.
Click to expand...
Hasn't worked out that way at all, we've even had guys improve their braking with the larger bore FJ80 or T-100 master cylinder when doing a rear disc brake conversion only (retaining the front drum brakes). No FJ40 came with a master cylinder bore greater than 1", in fact many of them have a smaller bore than that. The larger 1 1/16" bore moves more oil while retaining the original 1,000 psi (approximate) pressure.
 
EatSleepFish said:
I know the subject has been widely discussed. I have spent hours researching it. I'm looking for the best way to switch both front and back to disc. I have a 1971 FJ40. I would like to use the original riveted rims (as they have been prepped & painted) but realize that may not be an option.

Here is my understanding of my options:

Front:
FJ60 conversion--use this or truck front axle and then use FJ60 non-vented brakes. Are there other options here for vented?

MAF front kit--- Wildwood, this way I get ventilated rotors

JT outfitters: I've read that early on there were issues but that has changed???


Rear:

MAF or JTO rears. any good?

Posers kit: this appears to be the way to go. Use these brackets and go with Monte Carlo/compatible rotors/calipers.


Again, I'm looking for the most up to date info./recommendations. Ease of installation, dependability and parts are all important. I may want to add a OME 2" lift at some point. I also want to run 31's on original rims (rivet or weld).


Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
What month/year build is your 40? I think 70/71 was a split year. The early builds had a single brake circuit, the late had dual. This answer is relevant to what you decide to do brake swap wise
 
I went with JT Outfitters. Their earlier problems seem to have been rectified. And as far as I can tell, MAF, JT, and Poser all use the same rear set-up.
Also, I chose to go with the OEM booster (still available) for the 71-74 year, and a master from the 93-94 FJ80. Incredible stopping power. If you use that booster and that master, you will need to shorten the output shaft of the booster a little bit with the adjusting nut on the end.

And, IMHO, it makes no sense (and a lot more work) to go with a front wheel conversion only, as the rear conversion is a snap.

Just my thoughts.
 
upperblack said:
Brake booster for a 71 has been long discontinued but @Racer65 makes a nice reproduction.
Click to expand...

I do not know about 71. I may have been off by a year. I actually ran the number for a 74 at Autozone. It took them 2 days to get it in, but the numbers and ID on it are identical to the OEM one on my 74 Pig, and it is a perfect match, and it looked brand new. I chose to go that route because of fitment on the firewall, as well as size, and didn't want to go the spacer route.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom