HDJ100 swap (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Hi eleblanc,

I just finished my conversion 2006 1HDFTE 5spd Auto into 2000 LX470.

Runs really great. I had all sorts of issues getting it running that ALL turned out to be due to 2 or three dumb things on my side.

I chipped it and already blew the transmission. But 12 hours quick work and I had the trans out, I replaced a clutch pack, reassembled and installed back in car.

I recently fitted a shift kit to the transmission. Now a completely different story - very quick firm shifts that I would reccomend to anyone with an A750. Also if yours is the A442F, I would definately install a shift kit or at least increase the tension on the spring that limits the line pressure.

I will be doing every bit of performance enhancement that I am able to on this vehicle.

I have only just learned of your conversion from Dougal, so not sure what you are planning as far as performance is concerned.

All the best, Graeme
 
Also, I have two LX470. My wife drives the other as a shopping trolley. We had a drag race and the unmodified stock boost, no chip 1HDFTE converted is most definately quicker to 120km/h and beyond. Right from the start too. I was following my Wife, she accelerate fully and then I do and pull along side and pass no problem. I dont know what mine puts to the wheels (power) but for sure it moves very well. My wifes LX470 has 4spd Auto, but it shifts very well.

As a comparison, my 1HDT powered 80 series that had over 20psi boost (bit smokey), huge intercooler and 3" exhaust was slightly less quick in accelaration (substantially more torque though) than my Wifes LX470. The 80 series was dynoed to 114kw @ wheels (in 4wd) and was also a 4spd auto and lighter car than the LX470.
 
I blocked my EGR hose (boost line that activates it).

It cannot open under boost because more bost closes it harder (like external wastegate)
 
Right now concerning performance i'm not going to do much. I sure would like a Adonis chip but they are not cheap. did your engine came from a 2002 + and the variable turbo?

EDIT: i guess you do have the variable vane turbo if you have the 5 speed tranny.

Initially i tried to block the hose going to the EGR valve, but didn't really see any difference and i though since that on both sides of the EGR valve there are different pressure (Turbo and exhaust) it would be better to block the EGR pipe. So this is what i did yesterday. You can see the 1/16" blank between pipe and EGR. I don't really see any power increase but it does seem a bit more responsive at lower speed rpm, like accelerating from a stop.

I also have a diesel smell, the type that would itch/burn the eyes, once in a while. Sheldon told me that it is commun with the 1HD-T. I was told it might be a injection issue. When i had the injector cleaned i did not change the seat nozzle, i'm getting them and once i do i will pull the injector out again and get those seat nozzle replaced.

Next is a exhaust actuator, i don't want to run it full time straight pipe.

Having drove the V8 some time before the swap i can say that over 100kph the 1HD-FTE is quicker, under i don't know, but for a diesel it sure does accelerate nicely.

Concerning the tranny, it shift from 1 to 2 very very quickly but then stays in 2nd, you kind have to floor it, underwise it feels like trying to accelerate in low rpm without downshifting. I saw some kits for the A442 tranny, i'd love to feel the difference and see.
IMG_2339.jpg
 
Last edited:
Awesome build and write-up. Started reading last night and finished this morning. Bonne chance with your new toy:cheers:
 
Hi Eric,
While everything is open, try to figure a way to blow warm air on the rear, that would be a huge improvment.
In (Canadian) winter, LC100 is not efficient enough to blow the condensation away from the rear windows

BTW, you were right, the rear side windows are always condensed. Even in the UZJ the heat goes toward the back from under the center console. The rear roof ducts are only for the rear AC. IMO a toyota design problem.
 
BTW, you were right, the rear side windows are always condensed. Even in the UZJ the heat goes toward the back from under the center console. The rear roof ducts are only for the rear AC. IMO a toyota design problem.

I think so...Glad to see I'm not alone
 
VNT

Hi Eleblanc,

No although mine is a 2006, it is a JDM and only Europe received the VNT versions from ~ 2001 onwards. All other countries received wastegated CT15B. So, I also do not have the cooled EGR setup - mine is just like yours.

Actually I really wanted the VNT version since the VNT controls were there. I do note however that the ecu has airflow meter and turbine speed inputs but they are not connected (obviously) in Australia. I suspect that when the ecu is first powered (after battery had been disconnected for ~30secs or more) it checks if those items exist and if so, activates the use of that turbo.

Having said that, I could determine how the vnt boost was controlled (ie solenoid bleed arrangement etc). maybe I should look again at the ecu diagram (I have Toyota CD - it does all countries and all versions 98-06).

You should have a very clean engine, modern engine diesel smell - like almost no smell. the acceleration from standing start on mine is remarkable. I am a rev head too, having driven and been in many fast vehicles so I'm not easily impressed!

Cheers, Graeme

Right now concerning performance i'm not going to do much. I sure would like a Adonis chip but they are not cheap. did your engine came from a 2002 + and the variable turbo?

EDIT: i guess you do have the variable vane turbo if you have the 5 speed tranny.

Initially i tried to block the hose going to the EGR valve, but didn't really see any difference and i though since that on both sides of the EGR valve there are different pressure (Turbo and exhaust) it would be better to block the EGR pipe. So this is what i did yesterday. You can see the 1/16" blank between pipe and EGR. I don't really see any power increase but it does seem a bit more responsive at lower speed rpm, like accelerating from a stop.

I also have a diesel smell, the type that would itch/burn the eyes, once in a while. Sheldon told me that it is commun with the 1HD-T. I was told it might be a injection issue. When i had the injector cleaned i did not change the seat nozzle, i'm getting them and once i do i will pull the injector out again and get those seat nozzle replaced.

Next is a exhaust actuator, i don't want to run it full time straight pipe.

Having drove the V8 some time before the swap i can say that over 100kph the 1HD-FTE is quicker, under i don't know, but for a diesel it sure does accelerate nicely.

Concerning the tranny, it shift from 1 to 2 very very quickly but then stays in 2nd, you kind have to floor it, underwise it feels like trying to accelerate in low rpm without downshifting. I saw some kits for the A442 tranny, i'd love to feel the difference and see.
 
Also I have a few things to sort out on my lexus:

- Cruise control (wiring diagram slightly changed for later model, shouldnt be hard to get right but due to multiplex, no dash light for CC)
- Airconditioning (Lexus/V8 uses a sensor on compressor to let the ecu know that it is spinning - no such requirement on diesel due to idle torque) I assume this is causing an error but could be caused by many things......
- small power steering leak (annoying, will wait until the intercooler is changed)

My tailshaft I had was out of balance, so on the weekend I had the original LX470 tailshaft shortened 250mm, balanced and new uni joints fitted ($340 all up). Doesnt vibrate now!

I am building a new turbo for it at the moment that should be installed soon.

I think thats it....
 
Last edited:
Update on the to do list;

Things done and off the to do list

- I made a small blank flange to block the EGR pipe.
- Found and install a Clarion flush mount usb.
- I replace all 4 accumulator on the truck that were manufactured in 1999 for 4 accumulators manufactured in 2006. Big difference!
- Windows railed now lubricated

To do list;

- A/C; Order a pipe to at least have the single A/C operate. (i still have to decide if i set it up dual A/C, for that i need to have current to the rear AC climiate control.
- replace intercooler pipe protector (ordered)
- Replace air filter (ordered)
- Remove the now useless JBL amp.
- Find out a way to program a second master key
 
eleblanc, CONGRATS, excellent project I was impress, very clean job.
I have a dummy question, did you keep something from the UZJ100 ECU working or the new HDJ100 is complete independent?
Thanks
 
eleblanc, CONGRATS, excellent project I was impress, very clean job.
I have a dummy question, did you keep something from the UZJ100 ECU working or the new HDJ100 is complete independent?
Thanks

No, none. The only thing electric wise that was kept from the UZJ was the floor left and right harness.
 
Update on the to do list;

Things done and off the to do list

- Replace air filter
- Finally found a way after talking with a tech at toyota Belgium to program a new key.
- Replaced the timing sensor on the IP.
- The intercooler pipe protector seems discontinued or toyota have the part number mixed up. I'll leave mine like this and see if it holds.

To do list;

- A/C; Order a pipe to at least have the single A/C operate. (i still have to decide if i set it up dual A/C, for that i need to have current to the rear AC climiate control.
- Remove the now useless JBL amp.
 
Amazing! Just amazing work! Bravo mon ami!
 
Here a picture, notice the front mud flap!
IMG_0091.jpg
 
Nice Mud flap...A friend send me those he had on his HDJ
 
Yes, you are right, it's crap :flipoff2:
But as I have the same, I know how they are ;)
I just don't have the bracket between the MF and the frame (or Body)... one day I will made one with a piece of métal
 
Congratulations on a job well done and in your area a unique vehicle.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom