Harmonic Balancer wobbly? (1 Viewer)

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Dec 27, 2014
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94 Land Cruiser
Just did the oil fix on the dizzy, oil pump cover and harmonic balancer. Used a 300 lbs torque wrench from Harbors Freight with cheater bar to crank to 300 lbs. Then, at 304 lbs, even though the torque wrench is rated at 300lbs. Anyway, after putting everything back, the harmonic balancer is a little wobbly. Cause? Torque is not close to the spec - 304 lbs? If so, where can I get a torque wrench over 304lbs around the Sacrament, CA area? Thanks
 
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More likely is that the rubber between the pulley ring and the crankshaft hub is going bad.

How did you remove the balancer?
 
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More likely is that the rubber between the pulley ring and the crankshaft hub is going bad.

How did you remove the balancer?

I followed Texasknowhow video to remove the bolt, then, removed the balancer with my hands. Installed the new plastic seal from CDAN, again, following Texasknowhow how-to, by using a plastic coupler. Maybe, the plastic sealer wasn't seated correctly but I thought I checked it before re-installing the balancer.
 
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I read on another post to try tightening the belts. I'll try that tomorrow and see if it works. If not, I'll have to remove the crank pulley and check the sealer if it's seated, correctly. Thanks
 

inkpot

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How wobbly is it? Are you sure it was not like this before the new seal? Did you drop it while it was off the rig? Bad seal or improperly set seal will not cause pulley to wobble. John
 
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so the only "reasonable" torque 300 ft/lb wrench is here....

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-808.html

am sure there is a HF near you in sacto. lest you want to spend $250+ for a "better" one (see amazon)

even if you purchase the above wrench - I still had to use my "regular" 24" breaker bar - with a 2 ft. cheater to even get it close to 300 ft/lb.

once I got the bolt relatively secured - I then used the torque wrench which is only ~30" - and pulled like Hercules (all the while -praying I wouldn't jack up the toque converter bolt) and finally got a "click" on the highest setting....

there is much debate on the forums as to the validity and reliability of this wrench (being only $79.99 vs $250 or even $500) -

but so far I haven't read any reports of "catastrophic" failure from being off by a few ft/lbs....


Bf
209k and rolling...
 
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there is much debate on the forums as to the validity and reliability of this wrench (being only $79.99 vs $250 or even $500) -

I used the HF wrench and haven't had any issues.

I checked my other torque wrenches awhile back by putting a bolt in a vise, putting the handle out parallel to the ground, and then pushing myself up off the end of the torque wrench while standing on a digital scale. The difference between my weight and the weight on the scale at the point where the wrench clicked gave me the force and the length of the wrench gave me the distance with which I could calculate torque. Not the most precise method but it was cheap and easy. All my wrenches were within about 5 ft lb, but they were all low. I didn't check my 300 ft lb torque wrench (I bought it after I did this) but if you really want to know if you're in the ballpark you could try this method. With a wrench that big, you could probably not even use a scale. Just keep adjusting until it clicks under your full body weight.
 
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I used the HF wrench and haven't had any issues.

I checked my other torque wrenches awhile back by putting a bolt in a vise, putting the handle out parallel to the ground, and then pushing myself up off the end of the torque wrench while standing on a digital scale. The difference between my weight and the weight on the scale at the point where the wrench clicked gave me the force and the length of the wrench gave me the distance with which I could calculate torque. Not the most precise method but it was cheap and easy. All my wrenches were within about 5 ft lb, but they were all low. I didn't check my 300 ft lb torque wrench (I bought it after I did this) but if you really want to know if you're in the ballpark you could try this method. With a wrench that big, you could probably not even use a scale. Just keep adjusting until it clicks under your full body weight.

So,.....you're saying I need to use a wrench that is a foot long and lift myself off the floor.........:flipoff2:

You can also make an adapter that is an additional length from the center of the bolt, out 12" or 24", or even 36". If you use one that is 36" long and you use your 100 Lb-Ft torque wrench, you can get it to the proper torque.

Even less expensive is a tool called a Torque Multiplier and you can use the 100-150 Lb-Ft torque wrench you already have! Search eBay or Amazon for a TM...I saw one on eBay for $58. I'd do that if I didn't have free access to a 300 Lb-Ft torque wrench already.....
 
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How wobbly is it? Are you sure it was not like this before the new seal? Did you drop it while it was off the rig? Bad seal or improperly set seal will not cause pulley to wobble. John

Wobbly enough for me to see it, looking straight down from top of the radiator. No, it wasn't like that before I removed the crank pulley and did not drop it. In fact, I was very careful with it per Texasknowhow video. I'll try the belt today and check again. Thanks
 
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so the only "reasonable" torque 300 ft/lb wrench is here....

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-808.html

am sure there is a HF near you in sacto. lest you want to spend $250+ for a "better" one (see amazon)

even if you purchase the above wrench - I still had to use my "regular" 24" breaker bar - with a 2 ft. cheater to even get it close to 300 ft/lb.

once I got the bolt relatively secured - I then used the torque wrench which is only ~30" - and pulled like Hercules (all the while -praying I wouldn't jack up the toque converter bolt) and finally got a "click" on the highest setting....

there is much debate on the forums as to the validity and reliability of this wrench (being only $79.99 vs $250 or even $500) -

but so far I haven't read any reports of "catastrophic" failure from being off by a few ft/lbs....


Bf
209k and rolling...

That's the same one I used, with 3 calvanize tubing & 3 couplers from Home Depot. So much easier using that as a cheater bar. First, I set the torque wrench to 300 lbs. Click. Then set it to 304 lbs. Click.
 
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Today, I started up my baby and noticed the harmonic balancer was running straight. No wobbly effect at all, when it's cold and the RPM is running high as the engine is getting warm. After it warmed up and at normal idle, it started to wobble. Any ideas as to why? Thanks
 
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The rubber ring is failing on the HB. You need a new one. The cold weather may make it more solid and as it warms up, it softens and gets wobbly. It may only be one side that has failed thus far. You need a new one sooner than later.
 
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How can it fail when I just replaced it with a brand new one from CDAN? Thanks
 
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You replaced the balancer, or the O-ring seal underneath?
What BILT4ME was saying is that your whole balancer is failing. The outer part of it is connected to the inner part with hard plastic. Ince that fails, the outer part can actually separate from the inner part, which causes quite a mess.
J
 
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the failing rubber ring they are referring to is the dampening portion of the harmonic balancer itself. you are confusing that with the seal you replaced I think. sounds like you need a harmonic balancer
 
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Apologies for the confusion. I was referring to the rubber seal, not the Harmonic Balancer. I was doing a project to get rid of the oil leaks - O-ring on the dizzy, O-ring on the oil pump cover and the rubber seal on the crank pully. Thanks
 
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Maybe I need a new HB from CDAN. I'll take a video later today and post it. Thanks
 

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