Guide: Toyota RS3200 - adding keyless entry

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ATL Cruiser

Aug 1, 2022
Atlanta, GA
It has always been my desire to add keyless entry to my 77. I considered installing a Viper system off eBay with the big clunky fob. However, after careful consideration, I'd rather not look like a drug dealer from the 90's. Toyota key fobs are so much more elegant. Sticking with OEM Toyota gives us 3 options:

TVSS: Toyota's original dealer/port installed keyless entry system used from 1990 - 1994. This is a ONE button system.

RS3000: Toyota's next generation dealer/port installed keyless entry system used from 1996 - 2002. This is a TWO button system, but the second button is used for a second car (yes, seriously).

RS3200: Toyota's final generation dealer/port installed keyless entry system used from 2000 - 2002. After this, vehicles came with keyless entry from the factory. This is a TWO button system with a red LED light, independent lock / unlock buttons, and a panic button on the back. This is the system you want. I've bought and tried all of them. The RS3200 is the best.

If one of these options existed for your truck, ignore my guide below. It will be FAR easier buy a pull-off system with all the wiring, modules, etc. That system would be plug-and-play. Unfortunately, the 70 series was only built with TVSS (to my knowledge). TVSS is lacking. Additionally, I have seen exactly one TVSS wiring harness in all of my research, and I bought it.

What you need to make this work:

Floyd Bell Piezo Chirper
- this makes the audible "chirp" sound when locking and unlocking. It also helps with programming the unit to know if it's working or not.


(note: you can also buy the "Floyd Bell PM-80" which comes with a mounting bracket)

Toyota security light - this is the LED that blinks when the system is armed. We are not installing the security portion, but the LED light helps a lot with programming to know if it is working or not. There are vertical and horizontal versions of this device. Note: do NOT connect the LED to 12V to test it. It will destroy the LED, which runs at 3V roughly.

RS3200 module. Here is where it gets tricky as there are a LOT of different part numbers for this module. All of them are called "RS3200," but some have different connector patterns, and all have different programming inside.

Go on eBay, search for "Toyota security module," and find one that looks like this. It doesn't matter what they call it. If it has THIS connector pattern, it will work (caveat: the only exception to this is the MR2 Spyder (08190-17810) module, which will work normally except for the security light. It gets the security signal from the EFI module.) I know this, because I bought all the different options and tested them.


Key Fobs - get OEM key fobs on this. Yes, they cost more. Used is fine. But aftermarket key fobs are hit or miss. That variability and confusion is the last thing you want when trying to get this setup. The key fob MUST have a RED light at the top. The version without the red light will NOT work.

DC power supply. You will need it to program the keys.

Wiring Harness for the module. I found one eBay, but it was the only one. You can also buy the connectors individually from Connector Experts. Make sure to ask for the connectors to come with PIGTAILS.

Remove the unnecessary pins from the connectors to strip down the functionality:
  • Keyless entry lock / unlock - keep
  • Security light - keep
  • Door lock sensor - keep
  • Ignition sensor - keep (for programming only)
  • Piezo chirp - keep
  • Horn - remove
  • Dome lights - remove
  • Starter disable - remove
  • Flashers - remove
If you've never un-pinned a Toyota connector before, watch this video. I use a sewing T-pin and have for 20 years. They work great.

The system will look like this when done and match the guide below.


RS3200 pin out. This chart is the result of 10 different diagrams followed by hands-on testing.

Wire up the module to your power supply. I labeled the wires to make it easier.

The initial test is just to make sure the RS3200 module is working. Many of these modules got water damaged under the seat. Since there is no ON light, it's tough to tell if the unit is even powered up or not. The easiest way is to grab a key fob and press any button. You will instantly see the AMPS change on the power supply. Even if the key fob is not programmed yet, the unit will communicate with it, and you will see the amps move.

The next step is to get your key fobs programmed. This is a pain. Open the PROGRAMMING pdf attached, and turn to page 4 - "REPROGRAM EXISTING REMOTE CONTROLS." This procedure will delete all fobs from the module and add your new fobs. The security light and piezo chirper help with this. They will blink and chirp if you are doing things right. Toyota's method to do this is a pain. It involves opening the door, key in, key out, etc etc. Since none of that is wired up yet, you need to trick the computer by touching the corresponding wires to RED and BLACK in the correct sequence. Read the PDF, label your wires, and go after it. It will work. I know, because I've done it multiple times now.

Once your fobs are programmed, you can start playing with the system and testing the various outputs. Next up is installing it in the vehicle. To be continued...
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Wiring this into the HZJ77 was straightforward. There was a spare mounting point for the RS3200 module near the 24V inverter. I grabbed 12V constant power from the inverter output.


SECURITY light added near gear shifter. This is not a true security system, since the horn, lights, and starter are not wired up. However, the blinking light is pretty sweet. It also helps to know if the system is wired up correctly.


PIEZO CHRIPER wired under the hood. It sounds fantastic. OEM Toyota chirp. I grounded it to its own mounting point, so only one wire needed to be run.


I grabbed the DOOR AJAR ground signal from behind the cluster. This is the common point on the door ajar system, and it triggers the dash light for door ajar.


The UNLOCK SENSOR was the only difficult part on this install. The RS3200 needs feedback that the doors are unlocked (0V when unlocked) i.e. it sends a signal to unlock the doors, but then it wants an input back confirming that the doors are indeed unlocked. The 70-series does not have that sensor anywhere. So I had to make one. I used the door lock plunger motion to sense this.

Limit switch from McMaster: McMaster-Carr -


I initially wanted the dual-unlock functionality. This is where you press 1x for drivers door and 2x for all doors to unlock. Unfortunately, the 70-series has a common unlock circuit. The drivers door cannot be readily unlocked on its own without adding relays and/or diodes. So, I wired BOTH unlock channels into the same circuit.

This is the door lock/unlock relay. The RS3200 module sends a ground signal to this relay to lock or unlock. You will need to look at your EWD to determine which inputs are lock vs unlock. Mine were RED/WHITE unlock RED/BLACK lock.


It's rare that I need a specialty tool for de-pinning connectors. Normally I just use my sewing T needle. This connector requires this tool, though.


Overall, it works perfectly. Very happy with the install.
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God bless you @ATL Cruiser.

Mods, make this a sticky please.
This is really neat, thanks!! I would be lying if I said I have never thought about this, just always had something else that seemed to take priority. I always wondered why toyota would go to the trouble of installing power locks but not have a keyless entry fob.
Thanks for the writeup! I will definitely return to this when I make this a priority! :cheers:
Awesome write up, and thanks for sharing! I just picked up an LJ71 and I'm going to see if something similar can be installed on it. I'm also going to hit up some pick-n-pull junkyards and search for a Toyota security light as well. Love this idea - will give a nice touch to whatever security system I end up installing!
It is one of the best write ups in the 70 series section.

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