Greasing Slee's front Drive Shaft

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When I replaced the stock front drive shaft that came with my cruiser for Slee’s dual cardan front drive shaft, it came with warning label that said pretty much this: “Warning: Lube every 3000 miles or ELSE!”.
What makes this drive shaft special is that it has 3 joints. One at the front differential and the other two at the transfer case side of the drive shaft. This setup makes it possible to connect the front axle to the transfer case after the vehicle has been lifted. Using the stock drive shaft on a lifted vehicle can create some nasty vibrations.
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It was quite easy to locate and lube the zirc fittings on the joints of the shaft. However, there is a fitting, different than the other fittings, this one looks like a hole. It sits between the two joints on the T-Case side of the drive shaft. I had seen it when I installed the drive shaft, but once installed it is impossible to get to.

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I purchased a needle nose tip for my grease gun so it would couple with the special fitting between the two joints.
After much thought there the only way to get grease to the middle fitting was to at least disconnect the front side of the drive shaft. If that didn’t work, I would have to remove the whole drive shaft just to lube it. I was not looking forward to that.

Anyway, I got under my truck with the necessary tools and in a few minutes and with the help of a rubber mallet, the front side of the drive shaft was disconnected. I placed a couple of chocks under the tires to avoid movement and then placed the T-Case in neutral. That allowed me to rotate the front drive shaft while still being connected to the transfer case.

I found the special fitting, but to get the needle nose tip, I had to open the joint as much as I could. With the help of a bungie cord I kept the drive shaft out of the way while I greased the joint. I pumped until I saw new grease come out.
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After that, all I had to do, was bolt on the front side of the drive shaft and I was done.

From beginning to end, this project took me about 90 minutes.
 
Rick,

I used Mobil 1...
Next time I'll use a moly based grease. For getting grease into a fitting, it's a complete PITA. But considering other things I've done to the Cruiser, this is not so bad.

Alvaro
 
Rick,

I used Mobil 1...
Next time I'll use a moly based grease. For getting grease into a fitting, it's a complete PITA. But considering other things I've done to the Cruiser, this is not so bad.

Alvaro

my original shaft from Slee had a small hole for greasing, no valve. This new one has a actual zirk in there. I need to modify my IPOR skid plate if I intend on greasing that shaft installed.
 
One2Tug,

The Slee DS is recommended for those vehicles experiencing vibrations after a 4" or higher lift. It replaces the stock DS.

Regards

Alvaro
 
nice, thanks alvaro. i was wondering about that... talk about turning a 5 min job into a 2 hr one! the price we pay for height! :rolleyes: ;)
 
I just remove my double cardans lay them over a 6x6 and fill the joint with as much grease as it will take. That reminds me. Mine are due.
 
I've read that the center grease fitting you are talking about should have moly fortified grease in it. I'm going to start using it in the 1 joint from now on.
I have the land tank dc drive shaft purchased through wits’ end. I need some help figuring out how to properly grease the u joint and slip joint i believe.

I purchased a harbor freight grease gun and valvoline palladium which I intend to use for both the u joint and slip joint.

Are the Zirk fittings different with the dc shaft?
What does the fsm say about grease amount for u and slip joints?

many thanks.
 
On my shafts there are 4 zirks. The one for the centering ball gets exposed when the shaft is rotated so it’s in the 12:00 o’clock position. Even then it can be hard to get to and you might need to discontent the shaft at the pinion and drop the front down some more.

I always greases lion yikes the same by pumping grease in unti the shaft expands a little.
 
On my shafts there are 4 zirks. The one for the centering ball gets exposed when the shaft is rotated so it’s in the 12:00 o’clock position. Even then it can be hard to get to and you might need to discontent the shaft at the pinion and drop the front down some more.

I always greases lion yikes the same by pumping grease in unti the shaft expands a little.

Pic below is the landtank DC shaft on my '97. Where is the zirk for the slip yoke here? I hit the u-joints, but could not find a zirk fitting as easily as the rear OEM shaft which is readily exposed. Pics would be appreciated and any details on whether I need another type of fitting to properly grease the slip yoke. Danke!

IMG-2296.jpg


Am I missing a zirk fitting for the slip yoke circled in red below?

324D13F5-A5D7-4F4D-92DB-7B5C1BBCCA69.png
 
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Pic below is the landtank DC shaft on my '97. Where is the zirk for the slip yoke here? I hit the u-joints, but could not find a zirk fitting as easily as the rear OEM shaft which is readily exposed. Pics would be appreciated and any details on whether I need another type of fitting to properly grease the slip yoke. Danke!

View attachment 2524919

Am I missing a zirk fitting for the slip yoke circled in red below?

View attachment 2524949
No thats not it, it well be on the other side of the slip joint.
Sorry not going out to get pictures tonight ;)
 
The slip yoke has two bosses like that, one on each side. Only one has been drilled and tapped for a zirk. If the zirk has been damaged an easy out can be used to remove the stub allowing you to install a new one.

So, again, is this the hole that's missing a zerk fitting?

324D13F5-A5D7-4F4D-92DB-7B5C1BBCCA69.webp
 
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