Front axle is all set. It took me forever, but was a fun job. It was missing one of the outer bearing washers, which is kind of wierd. Thanks to everyone for your help and advice!
Got 'er done!
- Thread starter Tentsontop
- Start date
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No pics????
Glad you got it done. Let us know if there is anything we should add to the FAQ.
How did the swapping sides go? Did the pipe trick work OK for you?
-B-
-B-
Beowulf said:
I don't even want to ask...........
Swapping... Pipe trick.... Pray tell!!!
Yeah, Yeah, I could get banned quick on this one. Woody would be all over me with
- Thread starter
- #8
Front
I chickened out and didn't swap the birfs. This is mostly because I'm very good at breaking things and I didn't want to temp fate. They looked good and didn't click so I just cleaned them until they were spotless and then repacked them. The only thing that was bad was the inner seal on the PS side. The DS looked like the 97 LX450 in the DVD. I did change all of the trunion studs to the new torx head studs. I plan on checking them regularly from now on.
Is this cosidered a one or two banana job?
I chickened out and didn't swap the birfs. This is mostly because I'm very good at breaking things and I didn't want to temp fate. They looked good and didn't click so I just cleaned them until they were spotless and then repacked them. The only thing that was bad was the inner seal on the PS side. The DS looked like the 97 LX450 in the DVD. I did change all of the trunion studs to the new torx head studs. I plan on checking them regularly from now on.
Is this cosidered a one or two banana job?
Jenny Cruiser said:
Good question. I would say a 3 banana overall. It is actually a simple job once you've done it but it involves partially dismantling several systems and takes a long time so I would say it's a 3. There is always the opportunity for things to go wrong and we've seem most of them; busted ABS sensor, races installed backwards, trunion studs backing out, worn spindles, axle indexing thingie busted, worn axle, balls installed backward, wheel bearings trashed during removal, incorrectly set bearing preload, etc.
-B-
I'd agree with that. I'm definitely a novice at this stuff, but I don't think it was that difficult. It was involved, and it was time consuming, and there were a lot of steps and small parts and moving parts and opportunities to make mistakes and for things to go wrong, but all in all it just isn't that hard. I expect the second time I do it will take half as long as this time did.
If the head gasket is no more difficult than a birf job, I'll be a happy guy.
If the head gasket is no more difficult than a birf job, I'll be a happy guy.
I will add that what makes it a simple job is that there is no problem with access to any of the fasteners and they are typically not hard to remove (i.e. not rusted.) It also uses few SST's and the handtools are in everyone's tool box. There is a TON of how-to information w/pics in this forum and other places on the web as well as a DVD that gets high marks from those that have viewed it (I haven't seen it.)
-B-
-B-
- Thread starter
- #12
Axle
My biggest problem was the mess. I laid each side out on wax paper, which helped keep the grease under control. I went through half a dozen pairs of rubber gloves. I did it overnight in an unheated garage so it got a little chilly. Next time I'll have some help with the parts cleaning.
The brass hammer and drift were invaluable. I picked up a 12" piece of 1/2 inch brass rod from the local metal shop for about $4 to use as a drift. It fits perfectly through holes in the 54mm socket to make a T handle, which was handy.
Also, I used a broad faced rubber mallet to seat the hub seals. It worked great and didn't dent or deform them at all.
Next project is the CDL switch. A few of the local guys are planning a run on 7 mile this Saturday. If I get it in before then I plan on going up.
My biggest problem was the mess. I laid each side out on wax paper, which helped keep the grease under control. I went through half a dozen pairs of rubber gloves. I did it overnight in an unheated garage so it got a little chilly. Next time I'll have some help with the parts cleaning.
The brass hammer and drift were invaluable. I picked up a 12" piece of 1/2 inch brass rod from the local metal shop for about $4 to use as a drift. It fits perfectly through holes in the 54mm socket to make a T handle, which was handy.
Also, I used a broad faced rubber mallet to seat the hub seals. It worked great and didn't dent or deform them at all.
Next project is the CDL switch. A few of the local guys are planning a run on 7 mile this Saturday. If I get it in before then I plan on going up.
