Good Cruiser mechanics in Texas??? Low idle... At my wits end. (1 Viewer)

[ashooter]

I've been chasing a low/rough idle in my '92 FJ80 for a couple of months. I've done everything I could think of to do, based on many hours of searching here at mud, but this morning the truck barely stays running without my foot on the accelerator, and sounds/feels AWFUL if I just let it idle. Seems to be worse as the truck warms up...

Anyway, I'm at the end of my rope, so I need a recommendation for a good Land Cruiser mechanic that can figure this thing out.

I live 100 miles from everything (Sanderson, Texas) so I'm going to have to travel to get to any decent Cruiser shop. Any recommendation for a good one in the western part of Texas? I'll go as far east as Austin or San Antonio if I have to, but obviously closer would be easier.

Thanks

 

[4 ADVNTR]

Wow...you are way out there! The only recommendation I have is in Waxahachie, just south of the D/FW area. Might be too far for you.

 

[G-Cat]

Go to the Clubhouse and post in the different Texas club forums. Maybe even search those forums as there are likely threads asking the question in each. Good luck!

 

[96FZJ80]

The PO of mine used Land Cruiser Specialist in Austin. I never have as I don't live in Austin.

 

[ashooter]

G-Cat - that's a great suggestion, thanks! I didn't even realize there WAS a "clubhouse" section here.

 

[G-Cat]

Go into Central Region section and you will find 3-4 Texas clubhouse forums.

 

[ashooter]

Looks like Edwin Kincaid in Austin is probably my best bet, if I can't miracle something to fix this truck. He did some work on her a few years ago, and I was plenty satisfied.... it's just a LONG way to drive (or haul) the truck.

 

[STXLC80]

check your alternator it might be charging low. Mine was charging like 10v and it was messing with my idle.

 

[ashooter]

STXLC80 - I hadn't even thought of that. It runs better cold than warmed up, and when I give it some throttle, it revs up just fine, so I'm still guessing it's most likely a vacuum leak somewhere or a bad (or dirty) ISC valve. I could be wrong, but it doesn't "feel" like a fuel flow or electrical issue, unless there's a bad sensor someplace I haven't through of.

I'm going to go ahead and replace the valve cover gasket, which IS leaking a little oil, plus all the grommets, hoses, PCV valve, and the giant air "hoses" between the filter and throttle body... and while I'm in there, I might as well pull the ISC valve again and see if I can clean it out. If all of that doesn't fix it, I'll just throw up my hands and drive (or haul) it to Edwin Kincaid in Austin.

 

[Tools R Us]

...
I'm going to go ahead and replace the valve cover gasket, ...

When was the last valve adjustment?

 

[ElJayBird]

I know it's a bit of a drive for you but as others have mentioned, Land Cruiser Specialists in Austin are legit. They've been helping me with my 80 for years. Edwin, Hunter and their crew are great guys with tons of knowledge.

 

[ashooter]

When was the last valve adjustment?

Hmm... Probably 1992 when the truck was assembled.

Guess I ought to figure out how to do that while I have the valve cover off, huh?

 

[BILT4ME]

Maybe @jonheld can help talk you through your issues.

Obviously, you're not afraid to work on it yourself.

You need to follow his advice to the letter.

 

[ashooter]

Maybe @jonheld can help talk you through your issues.

Yeah, he's The 3FE Guru, for sure. He did suggest that the leaking valve cover gasket could be the issue. The weird thing to me is that it seemed like it was mostly fixed, after all the other stuff I did... then this morning started acting like crap again. I'll backtrack and do like jonheld told me (replace that valve cover gasket etc) and then see if I need to haul it 6 hours to Landcruiser Specialist.

 

[jsmo]

Alamo Auto Doctors here in San Antonio are golden. Rick has worked on my 94 80series for years and knows land cruisers very well. Actually found him on here years ago under the mechanics in your area thread.

 

[jonheld]

http://www.sdsysdesign.com/tlc/images/Strife/3FE TuneUp.pdf

The majority of idle issues on a 3FE stem from air leaks allowing unmetered air into the system. The top half of the motor wants to be sealed. That includes the gasket on the oil fill cap, the grommets on the valve cover, the valve cover gasket, the PCV grommet, the oil dipstick gasket, the side cover gasket, etc. You get the idea. If oil is getting out, then chances are air might be getting in.

If your intake plenum has ANY air leaks at all, this will have a detrimental effect on idle. If you can come off idle and it runs smooth, then this might be the issue. The more leaking air you have the worse it will get until it stalls due to the fuel pump shutting down when the flap in the AFM closes because it can't suck enough air to keep it open.

Make sure your EGR system is functioning with all the little vacuum lines intact and having a good seal to the hard lines. Make sure the hard lines are clear.

Another possible culprit is the O2 sensor wiring. These 2 connectors live under the truck and will eventually corrode. It will almost always NOT throw a code to the ECU. If the truck idles OK when cold and gradually gets worse as it comes up to temperature, then look at the O2 connectors.

Remember, it's a tractor motor from 1986. Look for the simple things first. Oh, and the FSM calls for a valve adjustment every 15K miles.

 

[ashooter]

jonheld - you have been a HUGE help through all of this... THANKS.

Yesterday I pulled the valve cover and replaced the valve cover gasket, replaced all the grommets, replaced the PCV valve and grommet, replaced the big air hoses between the air filter and the throttle body, finally got everything back together and she runs better than she has in YEARS!

The valve cover gasket was split at the rear, so was slightly leaking oil. The big air intake hoses cracked and crumbled as I pulled them off. The grommets in the valve cover also crumbled apart as they were removed. All were probably original from 1992, and they were certainly showing their age! All of the above were replaced with OEM stuff.

Also, in order to complete the picture for anybody else reading this in the future -

I had a progressively worsening idle - getting lower and rougher over a period of months. Finally got to the point where the engine wanted to die and I had to keep a little peddle applied at stop signs etc just to keep her running. Putting her in reverse was the worst.

On jonheld's and others advice, I started by replacing ALL of the vacuum hoses, the TPS, removed and tested the ISC valve and reinstalled with a new gasket. All of that helped a lot, but still got progressively worse (low, rough idle) over a period of a couple of months, which led up to me starting this thread.

Hopefully this info will help somebody with similar issues in the future!

- oh yeah - My truck has been "desmogged", so doesn't even have an air pump. I don't think the O2 sensors are even part of the equation any more. In any case, they were replaced in 2014 prior to desmogging, so are relatively new.

 

[jvazquez53]

Mine idles low when its warm, if I turn the AC on ( 100% of the time) the engine will not compensate, therefore, it does not charge correctly., wipers go slow etc. Sometimes when I put it in parking, it wont go into high rpms ( over 1000 rpms).