gbentink Turbo Upgrade Users Thread (1 Viewer)

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I'm looking at getting a gturbo while they're on sale this month.

Trying to decide between a Grunter Extreme (GX) or Badboy (BB). Any thoughts?

I'll be using the truck for: 10% city / 40% hwy / 50% offroad driving. I would love to make a lot of torque (500ft/lbs+), but I don't know what supporting modifications are required? I'm in the process of having the 1HD-T rebuilt with new pistons and rebuilt injectors. I'm open to suggestions about getting the IP + injectors rebuilt/tuned, and which type of intecooler is best to go with. Seems like snorkels and airboxes need to be changed if boosting above 25psI?
 
How much boost are you planning on running?
You can run 25lbs easily it just helps to get a 4" snorkle and panel airbox. You don't need it but it does help a little.
My beef with the grunter extreme is that it runs high boost on the highway at cruise on the flats 100km/h.
For that I would vote Badboy.
 
How much boost are you planning on running?
You can run 25lbs easily it just helps to get a 4" snorkle and panel airbox. You don't need it but it does help a little.
My beef with the grunter extreme is that it runs high boost on the highway at cruise on the flats 100km/h.
For that I would vote Badboy.

I guess whatever boost is safe and reasonable for the internals? If 30psi doesn't adversely affect daily driveability vs lets say 22psi, I don't see why I wouldn't go for it.
 
Boost doesn't kill an engine, heat from excessive EGTs does.
If you really want to know 100% what your engine is doing get a Pre turbo EGT gauge installed.
Best solution is to get that along with a wideband AFR gauge and tune the truck.

Graeme can recommend what the pump can be set to for flow and how much power you want.
25-27lbs with stock flows can get you to 200rwhp.
 
Going the full route. 3" exhaust, egt is in (pre turbo), snorkel, modifying air box, and intercooler, remote boost adjuster in th cab. I May just cobble an air/water cooler together and run an electric water pump remotely. (24v)
I went with Grunter. I do a lot of long distance adventure touring. Didn't feel compelled to get too crazy and it's what Graeme suggested. I'll use egt to decide max boost. But thinking around 20# will probablymax out my available fuel. Won't know until I get it all buttoned up and some testing/tuning done
2290 Aussie dollars then take off 10%. US exchange rate took an additional 23% off.
I'll update with some pics and details once it arrives
 
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I wish wheel
Boost doesn't kill an engine, heat from excessive EGTs does.
If you really want to know 100% what your engine is doing get a Pre turbo EGT gauge installed.
Best solution is to get that along with a wideband AFR gauge and tune the truck.

Graeme can recommend what the pump can be set to for flow and how much power you want.
25-27lbs with stock flows can get you to 200rwhp.

Any concerns with the A442? Would I need to upgrade the TQ converter to run 25psi?
 
My beef with the grunter extreme is that it runs high boost on the highway at cruise on the flats 100km/h.

What psi does the grunter run at on 100km/hr? My bad boy runs anywhere between 6 flat road - 14 slight rise - 22 which is the most I can get out of it. All increases in boost are made by adding the slightest bit of throttle, unbelievably responsive!
 
@SAM1HDT
12lbs on mine, I know a few others that are the same if not a little higher. In my opinion for a highway tourer I believe the badboy would be better suited. At least I think for my scenario.
 
@SAM1HDT
12lbs on mine, I know a few others that are the same if not a little higher. In my opinion for a highway tourer I believe the badboy would be better suited. At least I think for my scenario.

IMO the best way to drop boost at cruise is to gear up so the engine is turning slower and less boost is produced.
Other benefits include better fuel economy and better NVH.
 
I'm one of the first G turbos and I boost no problem ( boost controller ) 22 - 24 PSI with 315 ( Toyos OC ) and manual H150 with stock gearing 4.10 on my 80 I would like to have a 6th gear coz loosing down low gearing ( 1st gear or taller R&P ) will be horrible to me ..
 
@SAM1HDT
12lbs on mine, I know a few others that are the same if not a little higher. In my opinion for a highway tourer I believe the badboy would be better suited. At least I think for my scenario.

What do you figure would improve (in your situation) from the Grunter Extreme to Badboy? These are the two turbos i'm choosing between.
 
How far would you go with lowering rpm, what is to low? Is bigger tyres or diff gears the answer?
I got my badboy in mid 2012 and it was boosting 14psi @ 100km with 4.1s. Dropped the gearing to 3.73s and boost was 10psi @ 100kmh. I found this gearing to be great on the highway. I used to drive 1200km to work and back every week. With the 4.1s I found 1st gear almost unusable unless crawling up rutted out hills. Tires were 285/75r16
 
My bad boy would of came out of the same shed as yours then. I have had mine for about that long.
I wonder why your was boosting so high, mine is only that high up hills. With standard gearing and 285's.
3.73 would make a big improvement to acceleration in 1st and 2nd. Your always changing gears before you get any speed.
Did you do any tests for fuel use before and after changing diff gears?
 
My bad boy would of came out of the same shed as yours then. I have had mine for about that long.
I wonder why your was boosting so high, mine is only that high up hills. With standard gearing and 285's.
3.73 would make a big improvement to acceleration in 1st and 2nd. Your always changing gears before you get any speed.
Did you do any tests for fuel use before and after changing diff gears?

Maybe I got a Grunter by mistake. Definitely said badboy on the invoice. This turbo has been running 32psi all its life. It made 214rwkw and on a mates ute now. At that power, the regear made 1st and 2nd a lot more useable. Cruising @ 100kmh, the 3.73s gained about 50km more per tank.
 

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