FZJ80 Running Woes (1 Viewer)

alia176

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J
I had the transmission connectors (by the starter) disconnected when I pulled the throttle body while doing my diagnosis. Some coolant got into the connections and I was out of brake cleaner to clear it out so I just sent it. I've read that the 80 can connectors get cranky when wet, so gonna disconnect them and clean them out, see if anything changes. It definitely would make sense since I didn't have TCM codes before, and I haven't replaced/altered anything regarding the transmission

That's a good find there amigo, wet TCM connector is no bueno. If you haven't already, check the NSS just to make sure it's clean and tidy. You know, while you're in there :flipoff2:
 
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BakerFJ

Benny Bodangus
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Haven't had an engine light pop up since cleaning the TCM connectors--havent checked my codes yet though.
Installed the new intake tube this morning (1996 style, people say it needs trimming, I just shoved it on and it worked with worm drive clamps).
Cold startup after was much better, I don't have to hold the throttle to keep it from dying. Still has a slight misfire, the new O2s were on when the bad injectors were in, so it's possible they got fuel-fouled (although they're clean as heck).
I will say, I just drove 145 miled over the past 2 or 3 days (Austin TX commuting😬) and I'm getting 12mpg, not bad not bad. I'd like to get that number to 15 though!! Might be a topic for a different thread.

Also found this LED in my toolbox, so I made a bracket to mount it to the hood. Needs some reinforcement but for a little evening project I ain't mad. Also no, there's not a second one for the other side😂😂

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BakerFJ

Benny Bodangus
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About 45 miles since I cleaned out the TCM connections above the starter---no codes!!
Wild, because I don't remember the last time I didn't have a code. Usually has at least something like VSS (speedo doesn't work).
Still having cold start/closed loop issues, but having no codes is a really good sign.
Trying to get my hands on a ZF Toyobd1 scanner so I don't have to go through all this metering shplew again to check stuff---that'd be siiick

I plan to get an AFR gauge to see exactly what my air:fuel readings are.
I definitely don't have any vacuum leaks, fuel system is mint, all the sensors are mint. So it leaves me scratching my head a bit.

All I can really think of is possibly the new O2s got fouled, IAT isn't working right (even tho I bench tested it), or possibly the idle air control screw on the AFM was tampered with when it was rebuilt
 

BakerFJ

Benny Bodangus
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Been a couple hundred miles,
TCM codes came back, but don't seem to be affecting anything *shrug*. Also have seen a TPS code show face once, which is suspicious, although it is a new Duralast sensor that I had in the parts bin, wouldn't surprise me to find it already having issues, but I don't think it's related to the cold start doohickey.
The Cruiser only runs poor and gutless on initial startup, as if the fuel regulator or pump isn't doing it's job. If I just drive it straightaway regardless, the symptoms go away after about 3 or 4 blocks. Runs smooth as heck once properly warmed up. It seems to get slightly better with every drive, self-healing Land Cruiser?
I'm averaging about 12 mpg combined hwy/city driving (with ARB bumper and roof rack. Might fab up a wind deflector for the roof when I have time).
Haven't had a chance to look into much stuff, given the symptoms the parts in mind are ECT or O2s. Also a possibility that my valve seals are leaking enough oil into the cylinders that the engine hates itself on cold starts, but I don't have the time to fix that currently, and to be frank if I have to tear into the engine ever I'm just slapping a junkyard LS into it hahaha
Also, RR axle is leaking moly soup:doh: Needless to say this truck keeps my life interesting!
 

alia176

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Sorry if this was mentioned already but did you check the fuel pressure at the fuel filter or at the rail? I'm sure you did this already but wanted to ask. I don't think you're having a fuel pump issue because it'd be across the board, even if you had a dirty fuel pump sock.
 

BakerFJ

Benny Bodangus
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Sorry if this was mentioned already but did you check the fuel pressure at the fuel filter or at the rail? I'm sure you did this already but wanted to ask. I don't think you're having a fuel pump issue because it'd be across the board, even if you had a dirty fuel pump sock.
Yessir, as well as overhauled the fuel system as I hadn't gone through it in years...lol
Regarding my TCM codes, which may be related to why it's running poor at times-- I'm wondering if I mixed up a wire or two on the TCM connectors. I did build the wiring harness at 3am :D When I have a chance I'll pull that portion of the harness up and double-check. Schedule's been absolutely swamped between studying, exams, and worko_O going on an offroad camping trip for Halloween, ideally I'll have it sorted by then but either way I'm still gonna send it:cool::cheers:
 

mudgudgeon

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I definitely don't have any vacuum leaks

From everything you've listed, this is the thing I'd still question.
Hard to be sure from pics, your hoses seem fairly fresh, but what about the PCV grommets in the valve cover? o-ring on oil cap? O-ring on the dipstick?

With everything you've done, a few more $$ to refresh some of these things would make sense to me. Tick them off the list conclusively.

I had a rough idle previously and slight stumble. I did the brake clean spray test and never detected any change in idle. I never solved my stumble until I did a head gasket replacement and found all the old hoses, o-rings were rock hard, and PCV grommets were split and rock solid. I also had broken injector harness plugs I suspected.

I'll never know for sure if my idle issue was due to vacuum leak, or head gasket. But there was absolutely lots of potential for vacuum leaks.
I replaced all rubber hoses, seals etc on the engine. Afterwards it ran smooth as butter.
 

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