Fusing for the winch lines

Joined
Nov 6, 2006
Messages
970
This is the 3rd or 4th winch I have installed. I’ve never put a fuse in the line, just bolted the leads directly to the battery.
What is prudent as far as putting a fuse on the line?

I have generally ignored instructions that recommend grounding to the frame, and in the past, attached both leads to the battery terminals. Why do jumper cable instructions, and other wiring instructions specifically say not to attach at the neg (-) terminal?
 
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Joined
Jul 18, 2015
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441
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Canton, Michigan
This is the 3rd or 4th winch I have installed. I’ve never put a fuse in the line, just bolted the leads directly to the battery.
What is prudent as far as putting a fuse on the line?
You'd probably need a really big Mega Fuse, as the winch can draw a very large amount of current when pulling hard. My 8274 is hooked directly to the battery without a fuse.

I have generally ignored instructions that recommend grounding to the frame, and in the past, attached both leads to the battery terminals. Why do jumper cable instructions, and other wiring instructions specifically say not to attach at the neg (-) terminal?
This has to do with not hooking to the negative post on the vehicle being jumped. A precaution to prevent possible explosion of the discharged battery due to hydrogen gas being vented.
 

Hendrik

 
Joined
Mar 9, 2009
Messages
243
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Western Australia
Depends on whether you are considering a fuse for system protection or disabling the winch, but for system protection I don't think it's needed if your winch wiring is properly setup and a fuse will only overcomplicate things.

We run a 390XP alternator through a 500A magnetic latch (for charging) and our 8274 is cabled to the battery through a Cole Hersee isolator (to disable the winch) with Allbright solenoids but without any fuse or circuit breaker. Warn says our 9.5XP motor will pull 480A at full power so add maybe +10% for real world conditions (heat, voltage fluctuations etc), but we opted not to fuse it. The last thing you want is a circuit breaker (or fuse) tripping out the winch right at the moment when you most need it. Our 8274 is from 4/1983, and now on the third LC. All we've ever done is be aware + have a good feel for when the motor is working hard and being careful not to stall.....but even so we've stalled it several times and never experienced any problems with any of our setups for this winch over the years.





 
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May 15, 2005
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Ladysmith
Hendrik - seems you run dual batteries. Why mechanical solenoid and charging relay? I’m to presume
the Albright style contractor is for the winch itself?
Would you post up simple diagram of wiring? Curious. Thx, J
 

Hendrik

 
Joined
Mar 9, 2009
Messages
243
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Western Australia
Hendrik - seems you run dual batteries. Why mechanical solenoid and charging relay? I’m to presume the Albright style contractor is for the winch itself? Would you post up simple diagram of wiring? Curious. Thx, J
Yes mate dual batteries and yes the Allbright contactor is for the winch itself. The mechanical solenoid is to isolate all winch wiring from the electrical system, which also prevents accidental activation of winch from cab switches or unauthorised use via the four-pin socket on the front bar. The 500A magnetic latch is to allow charging of the AUX / winch battery while maintaining isolation from start battery. Latch can be overridden in cab or on the unit itself to join batteries if needed.

I don't have any diagrams of the complete install but here are the OEM schematics for the Allbright pack with mechanical solenoid (winch isolator) and the Automatic Charging Relay / magnetic latch.

 
Joined
May 15, 2005
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Ladysmith
Thanks! I’ve got a primitive dual battery setup with an manual isolator switch to
remove battery power from dual winches. Always like to see how I can clean it up
and maybe make it a bit more efficient
 
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Aug 22, 2010
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Jersey, 07740
Is there a reason no one installs a relay on the Neg (-) lead instead of Pos (+)?

because you want the relay on the power side for load control and these are 12v negative ground systems. its better to run higher current through a relay and have something that is a lower current turn the relay on and off
 
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Sep 2, 2010
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Sarasota, Florida
Why do jumper cable instructions, and other wiring instructions specifically say not to attach at the neg (-) terminal?
Because batteries give off hydrogen gas, and I believe oxygen as well, and can explode with any near by spark, aka, making the final battery connection with the ground cable. That's why you want to attach the positive jumper to the two batteries and THEN the negative cable to chassis componants away from the battery area.
 
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