Here's a bad picture of mine, My bushing is completely destroyed.
Plus all the part numbers
Plus all the part numbers
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Front sway bar bracket (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TTO5
- Start date
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Best I can do for a photo given the belly pan...1/4" thick angle...with a gusset at each open end. The location of the bracket makes it tough to get the old bracket cut out, ground down and a welder stinger into...easier when its on a lift (and even better with the t-bar removed).
Be sure to check/mark the bracket location with the wheel/control arms near their static/resting position and not at full droop lest you end up with a bracket a little rearward...like the guy that did mine
...
Awesome, thanks for the info! I'll make some locating marks before grinding out the old one.
I just ordered the following from my local dealer, list prices. I don't get a discount with them but its quick and easy.
Stabilizer Bar Bracket L&R: 48824-60110 x2 @ $21.75ea
Stabilizer Bracket Bushing: 48815-60111 x2 @ $13.53ea
Bolt (#4): 90119-08850 x4 @ $2.27ea
I just ordered the following from my local dealer, list prices. I don't get a discount with them but its quick and easy.
Stabilizer Bar Bracket L&R: 48824-60110 x2 @ $21.75ea
Stabilizer Bracket Bushing: 48815-60111 x2 @ $13.53ea
Bolt (#4): 90119-08850 x4 @ $2.27ea
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Once that was out I ground the other side flat and welded the new bracket in. I ended up drilling a second hole towards the inside of he bracket and making the non captive but side into a slot, the bracket is not perpendicular to the sway bar like I thought. Welds are ugly but I'm working on my back so it pretty much sucked down there. It's all shiny due to the corrosion-x stuff I spray on everything.
That shiny new bolt on the bottom is the wrong one. That's an alternator bolt pn#90119-08850. The correct one is pn#90119-08B50. A lot of parts websites have that mislabeled because the B looks like another 8
Well that makes sense, seemed a bit long but that's what was on the diagram so I went with it. I also miss orderd the bushing bracket, they are two different part numbers but I bought two lefts. I had to order again to get the right one.
I have the same problem.
My question: can I rebuild the two ends of the bar (bushings etc) but leave it unattached to the frame until I can get the part fabbed up by a friend? Need to take a trip and don't have time to do the whole job....
Thanks
Rick
2001 UZJ100
My question: can I rebuild the two ends of the bar (bushings etc) but leave it unattached to the frame until I can get the part fabbed up by a friend? Need to take a trip and don't have time to do the whole job....
Thanks
Rick
2001 UZJ100
I would remove it complete until you are ready, otherwise it's going to be banging around under there. Easier still is just disconnect it and tie it back until you can get around to it.
Love these threads! 4 years after the first post, the exact same problem shows up on my 2002 LX470 at its 120K service check. The front ASB bracket had completely broken off from the frame due to rust (AC drip as someone pointed out).
Toyota dealer is ordering the bracket. I do not have the part number yet. Please post if anyone does. I will once I get it from dealer.
On a positive note, the service foreman is offering to weld it to the frame for free, as he missed it the few times I complained about a rattle.
Toyota dealer is ordering the bracket. I do not have the part number yet. Please post if anyone does. I will once I get it from dealer.
On a positive note, the service foreman is offering to weld it to the frame for free, as he missed it the few times I complained about a rattle.
I would have happily paid nothing to have mine welded in 
...let us know how you make out. I’m very interested in the bracket they choose for this repair.
...let us know how you make out. I’m very interested in the bracket they choose for this repair.
So, here's the solution folks:
Toyota Part number 51591-0C020 from the Tundra, cut off and then welded to the LC100 frame. As the dynamics, dimensions, specs, etc of both vehicles are close enough, this should be a long-term solution. $30 OEM.
Vehicle feels fantastic now!!!
All credit goes to Andrew Sansone, service foreman at Heritage Toyota in Burlington, VT.
Toyota Part number 51591-0C020 from the Tundra, cut off and then welded to the LC100 frame. As the dynamics, dimensions, specs, etc of both vehicles are close enough, this should be a long-term solution. $30 OEM.
Vehicle feels fantastic now!!!
All credit goes to Andrew Sansone, service foreman at Heritage Toyota in Burlington, VT.
I thought I was having a bad day when I broke two of the bolts with one stuck in the bracket! I now see I should be counting my blessings to have a bracket at all.
I was able to remove the broken bolt with a torch on the welded nut and turning the bolt 1/6th of a turn at a time with a part of vice grips. I could get about two 1/6th turns between heatings.
On the other side I learned a bit and wire brushed the heck out of the exposed threads and followed my penetrating oil with motor oil. Tightening and loosening, slowly cleaning the rust off to keep it out of the threads.
Removed the bar to install new bushing since I was installing new links to replace a broken one. I was surprised at the amount of rust deformation on the ends of my sway bar (stabilizer) and thought I might need a new bar. I went to town with a hammer, file and wire brush removing all the loose rust. When I got to solid metal it wasn't as bad as I feared so I sprayed it with paint.
I was able to remove the broken bolt with a torch on the welded nut and turning the bolt 1/6th of a turn at a time with a part of vice grips. I could get about two 1/6th turns between heatings.
On the other side I learned a bit and wire brushed the heck out of the exposed threads and followed my penetrating oil with motor oil. Tightening and loosening, slowly cleaning the rust off to keep it out of the threads.
Removed the bar to install new bushing since I was installing new links to replace a broken one. I was surprised at the amount of rust deformation on the ends of my sway bar (stabilizer) and thought I might need a new bar. I went to town with a hammer, file and wire brush removing all the loose rust. When I got to solid metal it wasn't as bad as I feared so I sprayed it with paint.
For anyone who is following: I had a hard time finding a shop to do this. My local dealer ran screaming from the job.
My old-school farmer uncle had an incredible rec though: muffler shops. They are used to cutting and welding in tight spaces on the underside of vehicles. Had a real pro do the job in 20 minutes for $30 there.
My old-school farmer uncle had an incredible rec though: muffler shops. They are used to cutting and welding in tight spaces on the underside of vehicles. Had a real pro do the job in 20 minutes for $30 there.
Good to know about the Muffler shops. I guess I'm lucky to have a good guy in charge of service at the local Toyota dealer.
So, did you end up using that Tundra bracket? And how is the ride quality after?
I recently had this done. My mechanic friend fabbed a metal L-shape piece to replace the part sheared off the frame and had a muffler/weld shop weld it in. Then used new Toyota brackets and bushings on both sides.
I’ll try to get a pic and post when it stops raining.
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