Front End Refresh (1 Viewer)

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Jun 6, 2011
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I'm getting ready to "refresh" my front end with some new parts. I'm one of those people that does the "while you're in there" stuff if I'm fixing something in the same general location. I've been trying to root cause my vibration issue from what was likely damage caused during a couple of botched alignments. I'm not here to debate what the root cause is as that's in another thread. I'm at the point where I'm going to start ordering my OEM replacement parts as my rig has 230k miles on it anyway.

Here's what I'm replacing:

Axles
LCAs
LCA cam hardware
Sway bar links/bushings
bearings (Not sure I trust a shop to unpress and press these, so I may buy the hub/bearing assembly from Cruiser Outfitters, it's expensive though)
Both diff supports/bushings

Am I missing anything?
 
UCAs, bump stops
 
I should have mentioned UCAs are brand new and ironically what started this mess. Hadn't thought about the bump stops. Thank you!
 
"While you're in there" could be a slippery slope, but I'd consider brakes and CVs depending on how those are working for ya. I'm not suggesting a preventative CV replacement, just get a good look at the seals and boots. If everything looks great then definitely leave them alone.

Edited to mention that I just saw "axles" was first on your list. Hah.
 
Has anyone had luck using their 20 ton press to separate and reinstall the hub/bearing? Did you have to use a special jig?
 
In with a 20 ton no problem. I did NOT however split it, as you need a large bearing splitter which I didn’t have
 
With the caveat that I haven’t yet done this, with the correct splitter I can’t see it being a particularly difficult job. I’d definitely have a go at it with my 12-ton.

The trick is to make sure the inner race of the new bearing is supported when pressing the hub in there. Ideally just the inner race and not the outer, though a very thick support surface shouldn’t deflect and put force on the outer race. Most people don’t have that solid of a support though.
 
Looks like Metaltech has a good detailed write up on it:


Looks like it needs a 6" bearing splitter.
 

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