Front Differential Issues (1 Viewer)

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Jan 28, 2014
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The diff on my 100 series (2003) is making noise - a serious whining noise.

I'm trying to evaluate if I should rebuild it or just find a junk yard replacement. The truck has 148K miles on it.
 
Hi,

I have a spare front diff (internals) had a locker installed so I have everything except the bulkhead. It's out of 2001 with 92k miles, if this ends up your problem ping me, I can send you pictures.
 
Hi,

I have a spare front diff (internals) had a locker installed so I have everything except the bulkhead. It's out of 2001 with 92k miles, if this ends up your problem ping me, I can send you pictures.


Thanks I'll let you know. I think I'm hoping for a total unit assembled. I wonder how much labor (this is beyond my skill set) would cost on replacing it with a used unit vs. having a diff shop completely rebuild it.
 
Checking the diff oil will be telling. If it's dark or has metal shavings. The winning is more than likely a bearing. A cheap part that requires almost complete disassembly. Your cost will largely be incurred in the labor rather than the part. It's quite a bit of work of it has to be completely removed.
 
Hi,

I have a spare front diff (internals) had a locker installed so I have everything except the bulkhead. It's out of 2001 with 92k miles, if this ends up your problem ping me, I can send you pictures.

His is an 2003, first year for 5sp trans so he needs an 03 or later front. Gear ratio in diffs for 5sp models are different than 4sp models.
 
The diff on my 100 series (2003) is making noise - a serious whining noise.

I'm trying to evaluate if I should rebuild it or just find a junk yard replacement. The truck has 148K miles on it.


If the truck has 148K miles - likely to be better off going at least full master rebuild kit. Being carrier, pinion, bearing & seal replacement, as your bearings/seals have likely lived their life at that mileage. If your ring & pinion are in need of replacement you may want to go ahead & do that too. We can help you with this order
 
148K miles seems too early to repair a diff on a toyota especially for a land cruier!. If you do serious offroading with 35 tires then, the diff may needs attention. A brand new diff from Camelback is around 2000. Try checking with zuk in AZ. Visit gearinstalls.com
 
148K miles seems too early to repair a diff on a toyota especially for a land cruier!. If you do serious offroading with 35 tires then, the diff may needs attention. A brand new diff from Camelback is around 2000. Try checking with zuk in AZ. Visit gearinstalls.com
I'll check them out - I think you're right that it's premature. It's kind of a whining noise. Maybe the input bearing. I'll look at gearinstalls.com - thanks.
 
@LJPerryIIl

what did you end up with? I've got an 04 with a blow diff. Trying to decide what I am going to do.
 
148K miles seems too early to repair a diff on a toyota especially for a land cruier!. A brand new diff from Camelback is around 2000. Try checking with zuk in AZ. Visit gearinstalls.com

My front diff blew, and to completely replace everything but the shell - AND with an ARB airlocker, AND with a compressor, AND with labor at a local driveline shop is currently coming out to 2100$ for me with parts coming from cruiser outfitters. Since I can currently drive the vehicle with front drive shaft and hubs removed, seems like a no brainer to me vs the complete unit from Camelbak.

That is on a 2000 though with his gear ratios being different he may end up spending more or less money than my current quote.
 
@LJPerryIIl

what did you end up with? I've got an 04 with a blow diff. Trying to decide what I am going to do.

I ended up getting it rebuilt at Cottman Transmissions.. but the parts they put in were crap, and they're replacing them now under warranty. The communication w Cottman has been weird, but they're standing by their work if nothing else.
 
My front diff blew, and to completely replace everything but the shell - AND with an ARB airlocker, AND with a compressor, AND with labor at a local driveline shop is currently coming out to 2100$ for me with parts coming from cruiser outfitters. Since I can currently drive the vehicle with front drive shaft and hubs removed, seems like a no brainer to me vs the complete unit from Camelbak.

That is on a 2000 though with his gear ratios being different he may end up spending more or less money than my current quote.

Yeah - I kinda wish I would have gone to a dealer - the shop that did mine had to redo their work. It was binding instantly when I'd lock it in 4WD. They're standing by their work though, so I'm hopeful all will be well next week.
 
Guys, we have cores for these and can build them with 4.10 4.30 or 4.88 ratio, as well as TJM or ARB air locker. We also find that often times the OEM units do not have enough carrier bearing preload, which can lead to their early demise. We also build them with solid preload spacer.
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