Front Caliper Pins Seized

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geocruiser

geocruiser

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Pittsburgh, PA
I'm in the middle of changing my front brake pads, repacking wheel bearings and replacing front CVs.

All done on the passenger side, except for putting back together the brakes, as the pins that hold the pads are seized in the caliper. I cut one pins in half, hoping to work against rust/frictiong from only one side, but they are still stuck.

So, I soaked them in penetrating oil overnight... still no budging the pins. On top of that, the penetrating oil I soaked them in ate the rubber boots that cover the pistons. :bang: Two of the boots are verty stretched out/brittle and came completely off the pistons, and the other two are stretched out but still intact.

I could probably drill out the pins, as they seem like relatively soft metal, but what about my F&*$ed up piston boots? Is it worth rebuilding the calipers, if that's even possible, or should I just replace them?

I got a price from my Toyota parts guy, $200 (for each side) plus a $100 core charge.

Does anyone else sell OEM replacement calipers? I need them Friday so that I can wrap up this project over the weekend.

I have 16" wheels, so swapping to a BBK is not an option for me.

Any ideas? Thanks,
Paul
 
Cant budge em with a punch and BFH?
 
Last edited:
Gottagetone said:
Cant budge em with a punch and BFH?
Click to expand...

Nope. Brass drift, steel punch, BFH, no movement.

I just ordered replacements from Autozone. "lifetime" warranty, whatever that means, and they will be in for me to pick up tomorrow. I usually like to go with genuine Toyota parts, but I gotta get this truck back on the road. I already have new Toy pads, pins and fit kits.

The ones that I'm replacing are original, about 130k miles. Whoever did them last didn't use antiseize, which is necessary when you live in the rust belt.

Oh, and don't get me started on the m-f'er who was into the bearings last on this rig... They apparently tightened the torque nut and lock nut with a hammer and chisel!

Sent from my Thunderbonner using IH8MUD
 
This doesn't help you but...compared to a ton of past rigs I've owned and maintained the 100-Series brake system, especially the caliper/pad system, seems unnecessarily complex/over-engineered. Must have been the work of a Rover design engineer that infiltrated the big T :D

And as you probably found out...Toyota is damn proud of their over-engineering...OEM caliper replacement makes the Stoptech BBK pretty fairly priced.
 
spressomon said:
This doesn't help you but...compared to a ton of past rigs I've owned and maintained the 100-Series brake system, especially the caliper/pad system, seems unnecessarily complex/over-engineered. Must have been the work of a Rover design engineer that infiltrated the big T :D

And as you probably found out...Toyota is damn proud of their over-engineering...OEM caliper replacement makes the Stoptech BBK pretty fairly priced.
Click to expand...

You're right, that doesn't help me :flipoff2:

I do agree, Toyota does over engineer their products. That is one reason why we have three of them in our driveway.

I have put Autozone brand calipers on my FJ-62, and while they didn't give me the same warm & cozy feeling as putting on OEM calipers, they served their purpose (and kept my wallet a little heavier).

My new CVs on the other hand - only Toyota OEM. I've heard of too many aftermarket CVs failing.

Hopefully I'll have everything done this weekend, and I can finally get back on the road :steer:
 
geocruiser said:
Oh, and don't get me started on the m-f'er who was into the bearings last on this rig... They apparently tightened the torque nut and lock nut with a hammer and chisel!

Sent from my Thunderbonner using IH8MUD
Click to expand...

:lol::lol:.. laughing because it's true. :mad: :cheers:
 
Double-check with CDan, but I know Toyota offered a reman caliper for the 80-series for significantly less than new. The local dealer parts department knew nothing about it, but good old Dan had the info. They very likely have the same for a 100-series.

I would do that well before the Autozone reman. Their "Lifetime Warranty" just means they will keep handing you a "new" part when that one fails and you have to R&R it on your time, over, and over. I tried aftermarket reman on 60-series smog pumps...........never again !
 
Last edited:
super90 said:
I would do that well before the Autozone reman. Their "Lifetime Warranty" just means they will keep handing you a "new" part when that one fails and you have to R&R it on your time, over, and over. I tried aftermarket reman on 60-series smog pumps...........never again !
Click to expand...

Oh man did I have fun changing those 60 air pumps! Done it by day, by night, by firelight, in a garage, under a tree, in the parking lot of the bar! Maybe thats why I keep buying OEM for most of the 100.
 
Apply ceramic grease on the new pins before sliding them in.
Ceramic grease keeps for years, but it also helps to move the pins a bit every now and then.

I had to drill out the old ones, after buying 2nd hand sh!t.
 
So I got everything finished up tonight: New CVs, repacked the wheel bearings, new calipers/pads/hardware.

After I got the air out of the front brake lines, I figured it would bleed the entire system. My buddy was working the bleeder fittings, while I was working the brake pedal. While under the rear of the truck, he noticed that both rear hard lines are leaking in different spots. :bang: Upon further inspection, both hard lines are in pretty bad condition all the way up the frame rails to the front of the truck.

Both lines are one piece all the way to the accumulator. Has anyone replaced these before? I'm assuming you would have to cut out the old lines and put many smaller lines in.
 
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