Frame repair - Considering Joining the ranks of rear inner C- Channel replacement

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stayalert

stayalert

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yup…My 85 needs some attention…I've searched and read all I can find on inner c-channel replacement…I've dropped the spare tire carrier and will drop the tank…It will be slow going for me as I have no heated space to work in…..
 
I too am interested in this procedure as my '89 has a similar issue. You're planning on just replacing the inner C-Channel of the rear frame? Can you link to where you're finding the replacement?
 
I used 3 1/2" 3/16" square tubing - split it down the middle to make two C-Channels .. I did modify the ends toward the front to better fit the frame.

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It is not complicated, but imho it is a tough job.. It took a long time to drill all the rivets out. I tried to grind the heads off and punch out the rivets with very little success. I ended up drilling them all out.

There are some pictures in my build thread.
 
Cut an X in the hot rivet head all the way to the base... using a zip disc or dremel. Then use a big solid chisel and sledge hammer to pound the heads off. Then you can use a steel punch and pop the rivet out from this same side...careful they shoot out like bullets.

Or do it the easy way and get an air hammer with chisel attachment.

I like the hard way... feels old school :) especially after a few brews.

Note: WEAR PPE!!
 
TRAIL TAILOR said:
I will have an insert/C-Channel kit available in a couple of weeks. In the R&D process now. I will post up in my "For Sale" thread the details when completed. My signature line has a link to my products.

Cheers,

J
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Great News..
 
Good you dont have a heated space because the protection goggles will fog anyway, very tough job, it looks rusted but is very solid.
have fun, watch out for all the flying particles, I got one in my eye: for two days no sleep, doctor pulled it out, learned a lesson...

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shancerlelby said:
Those rivets are terrible! I started months ago and still havent got back to it. Look forward to seeing pics of this C channel kit
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The rivets will still need to be cut/popped out. Will come bare metal and the option of Grade 8 steel or 18-8/304 SS hardware. No easy way to do this repair and keep it as close to factory as you can at the same time.

J
 
Grade 8 hardware is nuts for this application.

I like the kit!
 
hj 60 said:
Good you dont have a heated space because the protection goggles will fog anyway, very tough job, it looks rusted but is very solid.
have fun, watch out for all the flying particles, I got one in my eye: for two days no sleep, doctor pulled it out, learned a lesson...

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after seeing this I'm never leaving Arizona with my Cruisers. It would take 100 years abandoned in an Arizona field to see that kind of damage
 
I just used 3/16 x 4" flat plate steel. welded top and bottom. This was a terrible design from the factory. I replaced steel with 5" channel all the way up to the front passenger spring hanger. 50 hours. done! What a bitch!
 
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