Ford MAF meter on '94 with supercharger

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

My original though for WI was to inject it just downstream of the supercharger so that the water would flash off while cooling the compressed air. That way the cooling effect would remove the heat of compression from the air but not be trying to transfer heat from the surface of the compressor screws. I guess I could try both ways and see which provided the best results...
 
Kennedy recommends injecting ahead of the blower.

By the way 50/50 does burn when you put a flame to it so it should be plumbed accordingly so you don't go up in flames.........:eek:
 
Scamper said:
Hey Dan - why not run the water injection at any boost (i.e., as soon as there is any boost)? Wouldn't that be better? Or is it just a matter of driving around with a 55 gal drum of water/methanol that's the problem?
Click to expand...


It is not necessary to have it come on line that early. In addition consumption would go waaaaaay up. It is possible that the motor might bog as well with such a heavy shot that early. It you were to go multiple stage such as Photoman is playing with it might work.
 
Dan, you need to buy a wide band o2 sensor and install it. You can get a nice kit now for about $300 that fits a standard guage pod.
http://superstreetonline.com/plugged/parts/130_0507_aemuego/

That way you will know what is going on. :D Still don't like the water injection. Add some injectors, stuff some more fuel in there using a SMT computer and drive it to a dyno and tune it :D
 
sleeoffroad said:
Dan, you need to buy a wide band o2 sensor and install it. You can get a nice kit now for about $300 that fits a standard guage pod.
http://superstreetonline.com/plugged/parts/130_0507_aemuego/

That way you will know what is going on. :D Still don't like the water injection. Add some injectors, stuff some more fuel in there using a SMT computer and drive it to a dyno and tune it :D
Click to expand...


I concur. Water injection is a bandaid at best. Better to go with true fuel management, spark reduction based on boost, boost cut device (fuel based), and a big arse intercooler.

j
 
A bandaid, true. But a bandaid that has been "stuck on" for 2 and a half years and has kept the dirt out.....:D

It works for my situation and I am not smart enough to play with fuel and I have not taken the requsite time to learn properly and I am not comfortable with farmming it out at this point.

Is there a better solution? I'm certain there is. My lovely wife thinks I play with the 80 way too much as is so I have to choose wisely...;)
 
cruiserdan said:
A bandaid, true. But a bandaid that has been "stuck on" for 2 and a half years and has kept the dirt out.....:D

It works for my situation and I am not smart enough to play with fuel and I have not taken the requsite time to learn properly and I am not comfortable with farmming it out at this point.

Is there a better solution? I'm certain there is. My lovely wife thinks I play with the 80 way too much as is so I have to choose wisely...;)
Click to expand...

Think german, look at the early CIS. use a cold start injector. Use the controller christo recommended.

Think german again, look at the 924/931/930 turbo system. Vaccum switch from the intake manifold to the ecu to cut fuel on escessive boost, as you can't just trust a wastegate, and manifold pressure can vary even with popoff. You can also get filters to lessen the fuel cut

Think Swedish this time, and get a saab 900 intercooler. Most widely used intercooler for modification to non cooled systems.

Alll of this is available at a yard, except for the porsche stuff, which you can get from performance products in cali.
 
z80 said:
I concur. Water injection is a bandaid at best. Better to go with true fuel management, spark reduction based on boost, boost cut device (fuel based), and a big arse intercooler.

j
Click to expand...

True for a turbo setup but S/C'd on the 80 or Taco not so simple. Options for intercooler are more difficult or nonexistant. WI is a nice addition to bring down the compressed intake temps. That is what I'm using it for vs. knock suppression.
 
Lockd97 said:
True for a turbo setup but S/C'd on the 80 or Taco not so simple. Options for intercooler are more difficult or nonexistant. WI is a nice addition to bring down the compressed intake temps. That is what I'm using it for vs. knock suppression.
Click to expand...
why?

intake air is intake air. I am confused? the 900 intercooler is pretty small, and would easily fit behind the grill. What am I missing?


j
 
z80 said:
why?

intake air is intake air. I am confused? the 900 intercooler is pretty small, and would easily fit behind the grill. What am I missing?


j
Click to expand...

Well for one, on the TACO there is no way to intercool due to the fact that the S/C is bolted to the lower intake manifold. No way to divert compressed intake air to an IC and back into the mainfold. No room. The area is about 4" by 15" (roughly). Some have cut the bottom off of the blower mount and tried using stacked oil coolers to form a crude air/water intercooler with no gain what so ever. A proper air water core will not fit under the S/C.

A Cruiser can divert the compressed air out of the S/C and there are examples of using a air/water IC from a Paxton/Vortec ect setup as well as a heat exchanger. Not knowing the cfm # for the Saab IC, I'd guess that it would be too small coming from a 2.0l and putting it on a 4.5l motor
 
Do a search on Photoman's set up. He uses a Spearco Intercooler No. 2-115 (3.5"Dx18.48"Wx6"H) and it fits in between the grill and a/c cooler just fine. Plus a shop like Turbonetics will make it any way you want it and it's really not that much $$$ once you really start playing around with trying to get the TuRD s/c to actually run without high end lean/detonation issues.

I agree with others here that a piggyback ECU would really do wonders for mapping the A/F for the s/c. A NorCal guy did this and paid about $800 for the unit and dyno and had very good results.
 
Lockd97 said:
Well for one, on the TACO there is no way to intercool due to the fact that the S/C is bolted to the lower intake manifold. No way to divert compressed intake air to an IC and back into the mainfold. No room. The area is about 4" by 15" (roughly). Some have cut the bottom off of the blower mount and tried using stacked oil coolers to form a crude air/water intercooler with no gain what so ever. A proper air water core will not fit under the S/C.

A Cruiser can divert the compressed air out of the S/C and there are examples of using a air/water IC from a Paxton/Vortec ect setup as well as a heat exchanger. Not knowing the cfm # for the Saab IC, I'd guess that it would be too small coming from a 2.0l and putting it on a 4.5l motor
Click to expand...

It's about flow and volume, and their not that far off. The volume of the cooler matters most, then the flow dynamics of the tubing.

As long as the air gets cooled, before it hits the cylinder your good. Air to air will work fine at speed, especially at the low boost of a s/c. Now if your running 19psi of boost at 8.5 compression, you'll have a problem.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom