I am swapping out diff, ATF and coolant on a 2016 and 1995. I know I am going to get a lot of variability, but what is the consensus on brand type? Thanks!
Fluid Preference
- Thread starter michaelpou
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My 80 gets the cheapest I can find gear oil for diffs and green coolant. Changing at regular intervals and maintenance is more important
I prefer the Red coolant, but otherwise agree with the above statement. I've been using bulk Lucas 75/140 from summit, as it's cheaper for 5 gallons of synthetic from them than it is to buy the master pro conventional gear lube from Oriellys. ATF I use NAPA house brand, as it's made by valvoline and cheaper than just about anything else. Coolant you can use the Asian vehicle red, or cheap store brand green. Just make sure it's diluted properly if it doesn't come that way, using only distilled water. If you have red, keep red. If you have green, keep green. Just dont mix 'em.
Use whichever fluids/lubes that meet the specs in the owners manual.
Synthetics generally last a bit longer, produce less varnish, etc.
Be sure to change fluids on regular schedule and always use a top shelf oil filter, safest probably to stick with Toyota Air/oil filters
Bypass the factory breather on your front axle ie: run a 1/4" rubber hose from the pipe nipple on the axle housing up to the engine bay,
install a small fuel filter in the open end, zip tie it to a bracket somewhere out of the way. Ditto for the rear axle breather but run the hose into the left rear quarter panel (use the hole for the trailer harness if you don't need the harness)..
Some personal examples below (everyone has their own favorites). Take your pick.
Edit: all below applies the FZJ80 in the US
Chevron Delo 400 XSP 15W-40 engine oil (lower viscosity in very cold weather, check the owners manual)
Mobil 1 or Valvoline Maxlife for ATF and Power Steering (some people use Hydraulic Fluid for the PS).
Mobil 1 Synthetic gear oil 75W-90 for the gear boxes
LiquiMoly MOS2 Gear additive for the gear boxes ie: Diffs (except Limited slip type) and Transfer case
Valvoline Palladium 3% Moly grease for the steering knuckles (and CV joints/Birfields), driveshaft slip yolks, and U-joints (or Mobil 1 grease for the U-joints)
Mobil 1 or Valvoline Palladium grease for the wheel bearings (ie when you do the front axle/rear axle service and repack the wheel bearings)
Toyota Red for coolant (never mix different types)
Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3/4 brake fluid. Important to ensure the reservoir cap is snug. Flush the system regularly (replacing all the brake fluid every couple of years). ATE has a type of DOT 4 that they say absorbs less moisture but you still should flush it every three years. FWIW
Spark plugs: Iridium type last longer than standard IME (eg: Denso Iridium TT)
FWIW
Synthetics generally last a bit longer, produce less varnish, etc.
Be sure to change fluids on regular schedule and always use a top shelf oil filter, safest probably to stick with Toyota Air/oil filters
Bypass the factory breather on your front axle ie: run a 1/4" rubber hose from the pipe nipple on the axle housing up to the engine bay,
install a small fuel filter in the open end, zip tie it to a bracket somewhere out of the way. Ditto for the rear axle breather but run the hose into the left rear quarter panel (use the hole for the trailer harness if you don't need the harness)..
Some personal examples below (everyone has their own favorites). Take your pick.
Edit: all below applies the FZJ80 in the US
Chevron Delo 400 XSP 15W-40 engine oil (lower viscosity in very cold weather, check the owners manual)
Mobil 1 or Valvoline Maxlife for ATF and Power Steering (some people use Hydraulic Fluid for the PS).
Mobil 1 Synthetic gear oil 75W-90 for the gear boxes
LiquiMoly MOS2 Gear additive for the gear boxes ie: Diffs (except Limited slip type) and Transfer case
Valvoline Palladium 3% Moly grease for the steering knuckles (and CV joints/Birfields), driveshaft slip yolks, and U-joints (or Mobil 1 grease for the U-joints)
Mobil 1 or Valvoline Palladium grease for the wheel bearings (ie when you do the front axle/rear axle service and repack the wheel bearings)
Toyota Red for coolant (never mix different types)
Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3/4 brake fluid. Important to ensure the reservoir cap is snug. Flush the system regularly (replacing all the brake fluid every couple of years). ATE has a type of DOT 4 that they say absorbs less moisture but you still should flush it every three years. FWIW
Spark plugs: Iridium type last longer than standard IME (eg: Denso Iridium TT)
FWIW
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #5
Really appreciate the time it to you to knock all that out. Covered my list and then some! Thank you!
**IMPORTANT**
You need special sauce for your TORSEN center differential on the '16. In the 200 forum they have a lengthy thread about this. Toyota's unicorn tears IS expensive! I use Ravenal. You could use it in the 80 if you wanted to.
I missed that the OP listed the 2016 in his question, follow the owners manual for the 2016 and/or ask in the 200 Forum.
This topic has been covered a gazzillion times on the forum and the general consensus is that any engine oil/grease/ATF/gear oil/coolant (that meets the original specs in the owners manual) is better than low/zero or contaminated/incompatible fluids/lubes/coolants.
This topic has been covered a gazzillion times on the forum and the general consensus is that any engine oil/grease/ATF/gear oil/coolant (that meets the original specs in the owners manual) is better than low/zero or contaminated/incompatible fluids/lubes/coolants.